Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Jon Kaw on December 12, 2016, 08:24:17 pm
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Hey folks, I'm working on a hickory bow, 66" NTN and am shooting for 45# at 30". The picture below is target weight at just over 23". Where do you think I need to work the limbs? I'm seeing a stiff spot mid limb on the left and both limbs need to bend more out of the fades, the right more than the left. What do you think? Thanks in advance for your expert opinions.
(http://i.imgur.com/NAO8Qg0.jpg)
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It looks like your bending enough out of the fades on the left but could use a little more on the right. There's more but I'll let others chime in.
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Can you post an unbraced, braced and front profile?
Can't give real advice without seeing these pics as well.
looks a little bit weak on the left side tip.
Not sure if youll make 30", your running out of string angle,
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Jon
I would hesitate to offer too much advice from viewing that single photo, as it appears that the bow may be canted on the rest.
Is your scale located at the arrow nock point?
Is the back of the handle contacting the rest only at the same single point you wish it to contact your hand?
mid limb on the left might be a good place to look at first, if it was not reflexed at unbraced. is it from a board or stave?
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The bow is canted on the rest, not on purpose. I had a wedge under the left side of the handle to try to even it out but the wedge moved when I drew the bow.
At this point the limbs are not reflexed at all, in fact they have a bit of string follow.
The scale is placed at the nock point.
There is a small knot mid limb on the left.
I'll post braced, unbraced, and front profile pics tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for your advice.
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Hi Jon,
Long time no see...
A 66" bow with a stiff handle might be too short overall for a 30" draw. It does look like you are running out of string angle there.
Best of luck with it and Merry Christmas.
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As requested
(http://i.imgur.com/2LTvSdz.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/2K8gE21.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UqHZMiA.jpg)
Looking at the braced pic I see how stiff the left limb is in comparison to the right.
Thanks again for everyone's comments.
Hey Paul, I need to get some pics of what I ended up making out of that failure I showed you last summer. Turned out pretty sweet and was a great ring chasing exercise. I'll PM them to you when I get a chance. You have a great holiday as well.
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The left is only stiff in the center 12" or so. The tip is already bending too much, stay away from that area all together.
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Hey Jon,
How much of the knot do you have on the belly side of that limb? It does look stiffer in that section which would seem to coincide with the knot location. Go easy with the scraper there and get it bending more evenly I'd suggest.
I'll be looking forward to seeing the pictures.
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That unbraced edge on pic I can see the thick spot mid left limb from here... and I'm miles away.
Del
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What Pearl said is what I see. I would stay off the right until I got the left caught up a bit. :)
Pappy
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Thanks everyone.
Del, you're right, I should probably have my eyes checked. :o
Paul, the knot's only about a 1/4" on the belly and pretty solid. I'll take it easy.
Pearl and Pappy, I'll see if I can even up the left limb today. And I'll be sure to stay away from the tip.
Thanks again.
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I think the advise so far is good. As you get the draw length out a couple more inches it might help to show the tiller as drawn in the hand instead of off the tree. Get that left limb to closely match the right first. With a 30" draw at some point you likely will need to get more bend in the fades, that part should be done carefully.
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Such good advice above!
You are asking a lot from that stave. A 30" draw is difficult for 66" stave.
Perhaps you should consider rawhide backing?
Jawge
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Thanks to all for your advice.
I worked the left limb yesterday and and got both limbs even at brace. I checked the bows weight on my tree which ended up being target weight at 25".
When I released the bow from the tree the braced tiller was off with the right limb being stiffer than the left. The left also has more set when unbraced. Should I have been exercising the limbs as I was evening out the left side?
I'll be continuing on this bow till she's finished or failed, it's a learning process and the process is more valuable than the product at this point. I may end up with a shorter draw or greater weight, we'll see how it progresses.
All of you comments are deeply appreciated. Thank you.
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I agree the bow should be longer for your draw length, but I also know hickory will take whatever you give it. Your bow may take a bit more set or be a bit less efficient than it could be, but in the end it will still be a serviceable bow. Not many woods will let you do what hickory does.
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I agree with Pearl.......but my experience with hickory will fret if its too short for your draw.....the tiller needs to be right on the whole process.
DBar
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I'll add that from here on out keep a really close eye on set and where it is appearing - set is simply put overstrained wood. You said that you worked on the left limb and it is now showing more set. This means that whilst sorting out the stiff area you have weakened that limb compared to the right. That sort of thing is about keeping the bigger picture in mind and keeping the overall balance whilst sorting out stiff/weak areas on individual limbs. As you are taking this to 30 inches you will get some set so try to use it as your guide to the weak areas and where needs work. It is important to work the limbs after all alterations.
With the width taper you have the final tiller shape should only have a little bend out of the fades with the amount of bend increasing as you progress along the limb. This is known as an elliptical tiller.
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So I decided to limit the draw length to 28". I tillered it out to around 40# at 28", then lightly toasted to the belly.
The back of the stave had been sealed with a urethane and I didn't have the foresight to remove it before toasting the belly. The back ended up getting too warm and the urethane scorched.
I understand that heating the back of the stave is a bad thing, my question is how bad do you think this is?
(http://i.imgur.com/tzNby8V.jpg)
The pic was taken after I sanded off the scorched urethane, so what you see is the damage to the wood. Did I ruin the stave, should I back it with rawhide, or should I proceed without backing and see what happens? Thanks in advance for your insight.
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Probably nt bad. Poly would scorch before wood. And, it's hickory.