Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: PEARL DRUMS on August 26, 2013, 08:31:11 am
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Im new to cane shafting, and always learning. My buddy hippy gave me a batch of shafts in May and I straightened out 4 and made arrows with them right away, they flew great from several bows and are tough as nails. I lost one all summer, and that was with attending 4 shoots/camp out even!
I made up 3 more over the last week. I went out to shoot them yesterday morning. WOW, they flew miserable and practically hit my target side ways. I was confused and upset, these are the shafts I had set aside to hunt with. I bet half the day went by before it finally dawned on me what was going on. I never scraped the rind off and sanded these new shafts as I did the first 4. It was night and day difference in spine from raw to scraped and lightly sanded.
Lesson learned ;D
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Do a deep cut out, center shot shelf in all your bows and they will fly perfect Pearl. >:D >:D >:D
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They do change when they get well seasoned,I try and be sure they are seasoned before I make arrows,and yes I also scrape and sand them in the mid section to reduce the spine some if they need it. :) I also usually make them up when they are to the point where I am ready to make shooter's 1 at a time,adjusting length/spine and point weight so they all shoot the same,just easier that way for me and not so frustrating as when you make up several and some don't do right and then you have to go back and work with them. I do the same with shoot shafts. :) I'm not the best shot in the world that's for sure but I know when it's me or the arrow that ant hitting where I look. :) Got to love um when they fly good and hit what you are looking at. :) :)
Pappy
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Yep, you got to cut your bows to center to make 'em work Pearly ;D! Art B
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Do a deep cut out, center shot shelf in all your bows and they will fly perfect Pearl. >:D >:D >:D
Just like yours right Greg? HAHAHAHA!
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just by rotating the shaft can change the spine 10 lbs....cane is less susceptible to spine issues..a 15 lb spine difference is tolerable...Kirk
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I did that Kirk, no dice. They are just too heavy and fly miserably. Im getting them closer now.
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Are you orienting the nodes/scars properly Chris? Up/down on the shelf (or 6/12 o'clock. Clear side against the bow. Flip and shoot both sides. Index the best shooting side........Art B
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Beats me Artsy. The first 4 I made I just made and they are great? Where should the scars be oriented?
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Leaf/stem area down on the shelf/hand Chris. Like I said, they orient at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. That places a clear side against the bow. Think I'm repeating myself here, but what the hey ;D!
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I think I have them that way by luck. Its easier to fletch and smoother to draw across the bow hand.
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Well, you probably made up a bunch of left-hand arrows then ::)!
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Hmmm? I just spin them on the spine tester with the 2# weight, mark the stiff side and put it against the bow.
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Left hand arrows are the only way to go. ;D
Hippy
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Left hand arrows are the only way to go. ;D
Hippy
Can I get an amen?
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are you plugging or foreshafting.., foreshafting will reduce spine and the arrow will fly better with the heavier FOC...just sayin..Kirk
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Nope. Just raw shafting Kirk
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That's cane for ya, I find no rime or reason to some shafts. Some just don't shoot good. But, as Gut said I do think % FOC has a lot to do with cane arrows. The different tapers in the shaft can cause different FOC balance locations. Find the balancing point on the arrows that shoot good, and see how close they are to each other and to the ones that don't shoot.
Let me know what you got. I'm kinda doing a study of the FOC point that way.
DBar
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Pearly, that's why my arrows are so long. When I harvest cane I have my choice with the shafts. I pick some pretty heavy cane that has a little larger diameter than the rest. I find that a 32 inch shaft with a stone point between 90 and 190 grains will fly pretty darned good from my 65# bow. They also fly good from a 45 and 55. The weight will vary from 550 to 700 but they still fly nice. I just think that a long arrow is so much more forgiving of spine than a short one.
I'll bring you some more cane next year and you can take it home and play and see what you can come up with.
Hippy
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Ill get numbers for you Bill. My arrows are about 2" longer than my draw. I have wiggle room to snip the nock off and rotate the shaft.
Hippy I would love to have some more to try out. Your not the first one to speak highly on extra long arrows being the ticket. Im buying in on it. I think Pat is a long arrow fan to.
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Yep, me too. My arrows are 30" for my 26" draw. I make arrows more similar to Hippy's than Art's but they fly well(or I wouldn't shoot them) and hill cane grows along my driveway. ;D
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my cane shafts are right at 26 inches...and spine right at 60 to 75 lbs..trying to get 70 as my goal...then I foreshaft them leaving a good 4 inches out makes them 30"...I draw 26 and shoot from 50 to 65 lb and they fly nicely...I used to get in debates with ferret about plugging verses foreshafting cane..LOL...FOC will fly better..IMO...Kirk...aka ..gut