Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: simk on February 12, 2018, 02:18:22 am
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Hi Folks
Tried something...
Sorb (Sorbus aucuparia)
ntn: 61”
42# @ 26"
502 grams
Don't be too strict with beginners...
Greetz
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---and some more pics---
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Woo, no need for strictness at all. lovely looking bow, with fine attention to detail. :)
That would be a credit to any bowyer regardless of experience.
Clean and simple, that's what I like :)
Del
PS. If you really want criticism... I think your elbow is a tad high ;)
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Fine looking bow. I love those nocks! I will be trying to make those.
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Looks good from here. Nice bow.
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Well if you are a beginner, that is pretty good! Lovely looking bow! If you want some minor critisizm, I think your outers bend a little too much for the design but I bet is is a smooth shooter!
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ow! Love those nocks. Are they your own design?
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Well done! Great bow.
Welcome here, hope to see more from you!
Where are you located - seems to be Europe.
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Welcome to PA Simk. Nice bow
Bjrogg
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Welcome to PA, Simk. Nice looking bow, beginner or not! :BB :NN
Hawkdancer
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Looks awsome! good job.
Did you deflex it right off the fades?
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Very cool. Nice one.
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Way better than my first bow, I'd say it's and outstandingly well made bow for a beginner, hell, there is nothing beginner-like to that bow at all! It looks really nice too.
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That is a really good design if you don't have much wood to work with. Even though it has quite a bit of string follow to start off with it also has low string angles and will still give you a decent force draw curve, couple that with low mass it should be a good shooter.
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I think this is a great bow! For a beginner or anyone else! Plenty to be proud of here!
Your elbow is a little high in the back ;)
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Hi Folks
I live in Switzerland, where a lovely Day just started...many thanks for all your good vibes an compliments!
I started building bows exactely one year ago and did some 10 working bows up to now.
Then i got fascinated in the Idea of building a angular selfbow - and here it is.
The nocks came into my mind as i tried to do the most simple and functional nocks...
But now you deserve the full truth - don't hit me.
Greetz
Simon
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---and some more...
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The notch in the handle scares me a bit but I've wanted to try splitting a limb like that. Way to go.
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awesome- I have always wanted to try deflexing like that! We're gonna need more details:
what glue?
did you smooth the limb glue surfaces after sawing? How did they match up after bending?
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Keep posting ,your going to be interesting to watch
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Hi Folks
This one was just an experimental test bow - my working accuracy was very low and i did a lots of faults, from which i learnt a lot i and have already plenty of thougts about refining the concept.
For example about deflexing the handle: I did a crack by the saw. This causes more of a stretching instead of an bending in the wood above (ok, i used fresh wood, that makes it a bit easier...but i also cut it too/unnnessessarily deep accidentally, because i was in a hurry.
So for saftey reasons i eventually reinforced it with epoxy/glasfiber. So it works by know - i don't no if it would without?
Probably better use steam, especially with dry wood.
Even better - that's what i will do next time: I properly cut out a bigger piece of wood at the belly of the handle (ca. 2/3 of the diameter) bend the bow (maybe with steam) and fit the piece properly in again. With this method you will not cause a stretching-zone in the handle but a real bending zone.
I glued the bow with common epoxy (attachments). The epoxy also fills the space in the unclean cut.
Cheers
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@ aaron
I didnt smooth the limb glue surfaces. A good saw makes a proper cut and the resin goes well in the cappillars i think...
But better use a bandsaw for a thinner and cleaner cut - that was probably my biggest fault. Although my cut is not clean in the limb in any direction the limbs fit well mostly - but there are also very bad sections. If you do a +/- proper cut and have enough clamps you will have no problems with matching the limbs exactly. The most difficult part in the project is the cut: Anticipate where to do the cut in the limb and then really cut it there precise. With the cut you +/- define the draw weight also.
Cheers
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I like a "beginner" with a head full of good ideas! Nice bow.
For anyone interested, "sorbus" or "sorba" is the same as rowan. I didn't know, so I looked it up.
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Very interesting post and beautiful photos of where you live. Welcome to PA.
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I have a little question about my black locust stave:
After removing some rings there still remain 2 spots, where you can see fungal-water-stains; they are, where the bark was a bit damaged.
I'd like to keep the sapwood. What would you do? Ignore? They look very cool at least ;D
Cheers and thanx
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Wow. I didn’t know fungus would get at black locust heartwood. Thought that stuff was rot proof, bug proof, and fungus proof. Curious to hear what others say about that...
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I would remove the sapwood - it doesn't look trustworthy. Hopefully the heartwood is OK.
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:-\ I know this is hard but just keep at it, you'll catch on sooner or later.
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Thanks for your thoughts. Still hope for more opinions for my decisionmaking.
The design of the stave ist already worked out to be used with the sapwood.
How about applying a linen-backing? Would this maybe help a bit?
Cheers
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Simon,
I like your willingness to try new methods, and I guess we will see what happens with that black stain. It almost looks like the wood may have been damaged and gave the fungi a place to get a start.
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You know I was just kidding right?
Your bow work is excellent already. Keep up the great work!
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Very nice! Switzerland looks amazing! I have a friend near Bern that has sent some pictures. 10 bows in a year makes you well practiced sir! No beginner
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Hi All
Thanx for your replies, though some of you speak in enigmas ::) ::) Maybe it's due to my poor knowledge of english...
@ willie: what a horrible idea!
Somehow i will finish this bow - there are some sapwood rings left (about 4) so my hope is, that maybe the last one is clean...we will see.
I'll grow with the problem 8)
Cheers
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Simk,
Stay on this site and you will soon be speaking in enigmas and emojis like most of us! If you can smooth the wood around the fungus and seal it(super glue, maybe), I think it would give the bow quite a character look! Of course, it may also be a weak spot, and fatal to the bow. However, you have built more Bows than I have, but I think you are doing quite well!
Hawkdancer
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Love your work area - some nice support timbers there. Nice bow for certain - a wood I don't believe we have here in NY state? Keep 'em coming!
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Now this is the plan :BB(i removed the sapwood 95% but left a decorative but useless rest of it):
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:BB Shaped, split, steamed, bendt, glued, clamped & looking forward to tillering :BB
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That bow is beautiful! Nicely done. Jawge
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so on this one you split instead of cutting? and the handle bend looks like it's mostly bent in the fades, without using a saw cut of any kind? I believe you could make these bends without splitting the wood, but I guess the splitting would give a bit of extra power thru the Perry Reflex effect? How is the first bow holding up? How many arrows have you got through it?
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Hi Aaron
First question: I split the limbs with the bandsaw. What did you picture to yourself?
Second question: Yes, for some reasons this one is bent in the fades with steam (my first time steaming...)
Third qustion: Very very good question. I'd like to discuss this topic in a extra thread that i will open therefore...
Fourth question: Due to freezing weather i only shoot it about 200 arrows up to know. It's the best shooter i built so far...im happy (-;
Cheers
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fifty:fifty?
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that's looking real nice
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That curve is difficult to tiller, a little too sharp mid limb. If you do succeed they shoot like Comanche's.
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Yes, it became a litte bit "on the edge" - it kept much more of the glued in reflex than I expected. Let's see what happens...
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Hi All
A major tiller-problem occurred. Before I continue I wanted to ask you for advice:
Do you agree with me, that the weak spot on the right side must be close to the handle??????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Thanx
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Examine it real closely for signs of set, keep in mind that if any area is currently bending too much your only option is to drop weight down to a point where it is not bending too much. If an area has set it is bending too much and stay away from that area. Very common to set out to make a 50# bow with this style and end up with a 30# bow. Don't feel bad many of us have been there.
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Hi Badger, I dont feel bad, but before I continue I d like to even the limbs, what means weaken the left limb as well at the same spot. For me it seems that the weak spot is where its deflexed by steam, what makes it hard to see. I only see that the limbs dont go in the same angle from the handle? Poundage is not my primary goal with this experimental try and i assume 40 are still in good reach...cheers