Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: zoomer on February 03, 2020, 08:27:59 am
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I've read in TBBI that Jim Hamm cuts his bow wood in August, so that the dense latewood outer ring has fully grown and the bark is still easily removed. How important is a fully grown latewood ring in whitewoods? In early sping, early wood ring starts to grow. Does that mean that cutting wood in early spring, when there is an immature, thin early wood growth ring, is undesirable? The tree I want to cut is birch.
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Early spring is good,mid growing season ,not so much.imho.
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I’ve heard similar things before. I’ve asked when to cut before and got all kinds of answers. Most whenever you have a saw in your hand. I’m curious. I may be wrong but if I understand correctly, this years cambium is next years late growth? I really don’t know. I’ve harvested HHB anytime of year. Winter harvest I use my power washer to remove bark and cambium. I’ve probably harvested the most in winter cause that’s usually when the saw is in my hand.
Bjrogg
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Yeah,I believe the same.the early wood either comes off with the bark or is sanded off in most cases.granted the tree is harvested as soon as the sap is up.marc would likely know best!!
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I have cut Osage in the summer that the outer most ring was not fully mature. Somewhat a mottled appearance. I will assume white woods would behave the same but I can’t say for sure.
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I always cut my hackberry in Jan or Feb and the bark just slides off with a lil drawknife work.
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Whitewoods are not all fit into the same box. They likely vary more than any other wood types in their ring growth.
The best scenario for bark removal and full outer growth ring for any wood is right when the sap rises or right after the growth ring for the year is laid down.
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Sounds logical but I've never worried about it. Jawge
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I prefer spring cut whitewood. My thoughts are that last year's growth ring has had all winter to mature.
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I recently made 4 of what I think is paper Birch self bows. Cut them in Sept. at around 60 degrees, and stored in my basement at about the same temp. Bark pilled off easily when green. Even after drying for a couple of months the outer bark pilled off like sheets of paper,and the cambium scraped off easily. Maybe had I cut the trees in March, or April of next year I would have had a thicker, stronger, outer growth ring. I have no idea, but so far the backs of these bows are holding up with no problems.
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I prefer spring cut whitewood. My thoughts are that last year's growth ring has had all winter to mature.
You've mentioned this before. What do you think happens to a growth ring in winter?
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You talking to me Pat M.
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No. I quoted Pat B.
Wood is dormant in the winter. Hard to see anything happening to the finished ring in the winter.
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I see that you are not talking to me after looking closer.
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I cut my wood in mid/late summer, and the oak bark just popped right off, cambium included. Made sure to harvest under a full moon. Call me superstitious, it just seems to work for me. Maybe it's the old ways talking.
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Pat, wood is always dormant, dead as a matter of fact. The only thing on a tree that is alive is the cambium and the buds. Bark and wood is basically dead. My reasoning is that over the winter the wood cells have time to harden off at least more that summer or fall cutting. I have4 no proof of this it's just my thoughts. That being said I cut bow wood when it is available but my preferred time is once the leaves come out.
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birch is diffuse porous and not near as critical as some ring porous woods that have a distinct punky earlygrowth.
another consideration with birch is if you cut just as the sap comes up (buds reddened, but before buds turn green), the bark peels off very easily, making quite a bit less work as if the stave is dried with the bark on it becomes very difficult to remove
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Pat, wood is always dormant, dead as a matter of fact. The only thing on a tree that is alive is the cambium and the buds. Bark and wood is basically dead. My reasoning is that over the winter the wood cells have time to harden off at least more that summer or fall cutting. I have4 no proof of this it's just my thoughts. That being said I cut bow wood when it is available but my preferred time is once the leaves come out.
Yeah, that's what I meant. Wood changes when it converts to heartwood but that last growth ring isn't changing in the winter. It's dead.
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I’m not so sure about that Pat. Osage once seasoned has changed some while deader than dead.
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That's polymerization of organic compounds.
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I think While the annual growth ring is growing, this present years growth, isn't as strong as mature wood that has hardened off over the winter. Like I said, I have no proof but it's what I think from 30+ years of cutting bow wood. Other personal experiences may vary. ;)
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I had no trouble at all removing the bark green or dried for a couple of months.
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Nothing makes the wood harden like cutting it down and drying it though. ;) I have never noticed any difference in a growth ring at the end of a growing season or the start of a new one, or their integrity in a finished bow.
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Thanks to everyone for input. Very informative and I appreciate it.
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I had no trouble at all removing the bark green or dried for a couple of months.
I guess maybe compared to some others birch is generally a bit easier. If you catch it right as the sap comes up and is running hard like on a sunny afternoon, it can be peeled off all in one piece rather easily and give you a sheet of bark to use for other things like a quiver or basket