Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: snag on July 26, 2020, 12:28:28 pm
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This is a 64” ntn yew bow. I heat bent the outer 9” to put a slight bit of reflex.
In this picture I have it bent at 15”. It has 3/8”+ tiller.
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Another view.
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You want a picture of the whole bow from straight on. No angles or part shots. :D
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Is that ok?
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Your outer limbs don't seem to be working very much
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I was wondering about the outer third. I’ll address that. Thanks.
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Be careful mid limb but get the outers working more.
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Will do. Thanks!
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Need pictures of the whole bow, straight on unbraced, and braced.
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Braced picture
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Unbraced...
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It looks pretty good but you're still standing off at an angle. If you were at 90° to the bow the top of the bench would be a straight level line across the picture. :)
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Gotcha. I’ll try again. My shop is a bit crowded right now. But I will rearrange things and get a more direct shot. Thanks
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It looks pretty good but you're still standing off at an angle. If you were at 90° to the bow the top of the bench would be a straight level line across the picture. :)
That's why I haven't chimed in... the pics weren't good enough to see what's happening :(
Del
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I will get some better ones up today. Thanks
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Here’s some better pics.
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Braced at 5”
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Drawn to 16”
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Leave the mid limbs alone. Work a bit on the inner and outer limbs. Are you using a gizmo?
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Yes I am. But obviously I don’t know how many scrapes with the cabinet scraper to take.
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Yes I am. But obviously I don’t know how many scrapes with the cabinet scraper to take.
Use a pencil and put marks all over the area you want to remove wood from. Scrape until the marks are gone, then check again.
Mark
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There is no set number of scrapes; you just have to take off the right amount of wood! Some of the guys on here will comment that someone needs "ten scrapes off" an area, but I have always taken that as a general guideline. It depends on the sharpness of your scraper (or rasp), your technique, and of course the particular piece of wood. Don't get in a hurry just because you keep scraping and checking with not much of a result. It does eventually work! And of course, you can't put the wood back on if you go too far.
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In all honesty I had the top and bottom bending pretty evenly. So I continued to do full length reduction by scraping the same amount on both limbs. About 20 per side and then check on the tree after bending them a bit. After two of these sessions it looked like this. I must have scraped more wood off mid-limb.
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You do have a couple of mid-limb deflexed kinks in the unbraced picture. Were they there from the beginning, or is that set? If the stave was naturally shaped that way, the mids may appear to be working just a bit too much at full draw. (I don't think that is what is going on now though, since they are pretty subtle and are still working too much relative to the inner and outer limbs.) If those areas are caused by set, that just reinforces the need to stay away from them until the rest of the limb is working. If you were scraping the whole limb, it is possible that you were bearing down a bit harder in the middle...it wouldn't take much.
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The kinks were there after heat treating and bending them on the caul.
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Tad stiff out of the fades. It's hard to get the outers moving, but they could come round a bit more.
Del
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Thank you for the advice. I worked on the outer 1/3’s and the fades a bit more. The Gizmo is showing me a much more even arch. The fades still could use a little more attention.