Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jeffp51 on November 20, 2017, 02:08:40 pm
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I got this black walnut stave from Mullet several months ago, and now it is time to do something with it. The stave is 64" long, and the sapwood is about 1/2" thick. the Stave is over 2" wide at both ends. It appears to be perfectly straight, has no twist I can see, and Here are my constraints:
1. the heartwood on this stick is beautiful, and I want at least some of it on the finished bow--ideally, some of the sapwood for the back (I have read somewhere it is stronger in tension), but as much as possible of the heartwood, assuming it is suitable for bow building
2. I have a 29" draw, so the 64" could be a bit short--especially with a stiff handle, although a stiff handle would look great with this wood.
3. I am not going to build this bow for someone else--I am being selfish with this, so I can't build it to a shorter draw.
What options do you see? Recurved tips or flipped tips could help with stack if the wood can take the strain. Bend through the handle would give me the length I need, but may sacrifice the chance to show off the heartwood. I could deflex it from the start to relieve the strain, but I might lose performance. What would you do with it? If you have built walnut before, what has your experience been?
Thanks,
Jeff
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I always used the sapwood right under the bark for the back of a BW bow and usually had a bit of heartwood in the handle and fades.The sapwood is a better backing so at least leave some sapwood on the back. I would overbuild and leave the limbs wide for most or the length with taper the last 10" to 12" at the tips and you could kick them up a little. Use steam for this.
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I thought it might be best to use 1-2 sapwood rings on the back. how is the compression of the heartwood? is it prone to fretting? do I need to think about trapping the back, or is it tension poor and I should think about rawhide or sinew on the back? if walnut is strong enough in compression, then maybe I can sinew it and get more bend. I just don't have enough experience with this kind of wood so I would love to hear from anyone who has used it before.
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You'll get varying opinions on its compression ability. In the past they liked to use heartwood and back it with Hickory etc.
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Lots to think about for sure.
I'm with Pat 100% on leaving it wide for at least 1/2 the limbs. I've heard many on here say that's the way to go with walnut. It will result in thinner limbs (less or no heartwood), but if it were me I'd be happy with heartwood on the handle and fades.
I've never chased a ring on walnut so I'd be hesitant to do so.
A 29" draw implies you want around 58" of working limb so you're cutting it close with a 6" static handle. I'd put some curves on the tips that work a little and with the wide limbs you'll probably be good.
Best of luck with this! :)
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I forgot to add pictures. . .
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Keep the belly flat and watch for frets. I made a hickory backed walnut ELB years ago that fretted clean through the walnut. The only other walnut bows were all sapwood with a little heartwood in the handle.
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I would probably R/D it to help on the strain for that draw length and they perform very well , in fact I love the way they draw and shoot. Not sure on chasing the growth ring, never done that except tried it on the heart wood and that didn't go so well. ;)
Pappy
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I think no matter what I do, this stave will be a real test. I feel like I am going to have to use every trick mentioned to get the draw length I am looking for. I think I will have to get the handle bending a little at least, and deflex it as well. Problem with a bendy handle, is that they tend to be wide, and I have never liked that much. I have been thinking about a profile like this one from Weylin:
http://swiftwoodbows.com/custom-vine-maple-bow-5228/ukbf4rg9paknp0x4zjoqce4tc8l6e9 (if this link is a no-go for the site, please let me know)
the narrower handle would have more depth to it and make for a more center-shot arrow pass, but still allow for wide limbs for most of the bend. Some working recurves would be needed to fight stack at full draw.
Maybe I am asking too much of this piece of wood. I have an osage bow of this length that is my favorite shooter--but it is osage, and can take a lot of punishment. what do you all think? am I on the right track, or just delusional?
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maybe if you trapped it heavily,you could save some heart wood?