Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Lost Oki on December 10, 2022, 09:26:35 pm
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close to finishing my first Red Oak board bow and have question on tillering.
I feel like I am close but being my first bow I am not sure. see pic.
If I am looking at this right, the right limb needs a little more scraping about midway down limb. I have ran the tillering tool down it several times and it only marks the limb when I get close to the nock...
Need Feedback
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Middle third on the right limb needs a bit off. Almost to where the knife on the wall is in the picture. Be sure to blend those areas so you don’t create a hinge. I find my fingers can pick up thickness changes even where my eyes can’t, so try that as well and I think you’ll be surprised. Great job!
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Set your gizmo pencil about 1/8" from the limb on the left limb between the door frame and the board in the background, it will mark the right limb a bunch after this adjustment.
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Thanks for the direction, my first bow and there is a lot to learn. Great sight.
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Middle third on the right limb needs a bit off. Almost to where the knife on the wall is in the picture. Be sure to blend those areas so you don’t create a hinge. I find my fingers can pick up thickness changes even where my eyes can’t, so try that as well and I think you’ll be surprised. Great job!
This is what I see als well. Fingers tell you what your eyes may not pick up. Good advice. Go slow and bend bow some after the scrapes. Best of luck. Looking good.
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My site may help you.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
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For a first bow attempt, you are doing great. Light scrapes midlimb on the right limb, then exercise the bow never pulling more than your target weight. Rinse and repeat.
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Added bow string to the red oak board bow. NC to NC is 62" string is 58" distance from inside handle to string is 8", this seems a little high, I was thinking it should be 6.5 to 7"
Found more info, think my string is 1" short, should it be 59"?
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8” seems high. I’d go with 6.5” on a bow that long. You’d be fine at this brace of 6.5”. Give it a try and see the way it shoots. You don’t want too much less then 6” as you may get wrist slap. With going with too tall of brace will reduce your power stroke. Play around with it and see how it shoots. It will tell you. It’s a balance that needs to be struck.
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That is one of the finest first bows I've seen. You have a very promising future if you keep going with it.
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That is one of the finest first bows I've seen. You have a very promising future if you keep going with it.
I agree. Very nice first bow.
Eric you have helped a lot of bowyers both improve and become first time bowyers with your gizmo.
Bjrogg
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Yes, I agree with PD. Looking good! Vastly better than my first. Jawge
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The proper fades caught my eye. That is an area nearly every one of us screwed up repeatedly.
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a lot of research before starting, lots of feed back from knowledgeable people. Honestly the board was not the best but the better of the four I have on hand. Having a background in using hand tools, having most on-hand and luck. Thanks to all for the replies and encouragement. And a thank you for my grandfather and father who passed knowledge and tools down to me. Now, to build another string.
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Thats pretty darn good! I agree with pearly and BJ, thats an amazing first bow! It seems you had a pretty great grandfather and father!
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Ok, think I have finished the tillering, made a 2nd string, 1st was 1" short. Added string to bow, measured between string and handle, 6.5". Note, had cut walnut off handle and added a scrap piece of cedar and reshaped, much better. Tried to check draw weight but my digital scale keeps stopping if I don't push fast, best I got was 31lbs and 23", was shooting for 35 to 40 at 28". Will have to take to local bow shop and see if they will check it for me. Question: how thick should the bow be around the nock area and last 8 inches leading into it? Backing is burlap (see pic) seems to work great but when I add finish to bow, should I add to backing also? Using polyurethane. see attached pictures.
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Nice looking work. I'd recommend getting yourself a bow scale if its in the budget. Provided you plan on making more. I have seen some guys use mechanical scales for weighing fish, would work just fine as well. I usually find a bow will gain 2.5-3 lbs an inch so I'd bet you are a bit over your intended 40 lbs at 28". If you used a waterproff glue to attach your backing I see no need to apply the poly over it but I would just because. I like spray can paint over burlap to add a bit of color and put on light enough it does not build up and run. you want the tips to be as thick as intended for the design. Not trying to be a wise guy on that but if you want stiff tips it should be just a bit thicker than the working limb but if you want limbs to work all the way out they should be as thick as working limb or just a bit less. Its better to not go by how thick they are but by how they are bending or not bending and what you want or need. Somewhere just over half inch i'd say but that's a guess. Good luck on the rest of the build.
Mike
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Thanks Mike. Several things I need to continue to build. First on the list is a draw knife and I need to build a dry box. I have two hickory staves I cut earlier this month but think I will build another board bow to improve my skills and knowledge before I start on the hickory.
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Get a good draw knife. I bought one after my first try taking bark n sapwood off a hickory tree I cut. Draw knife makes a huge difference. I got one that I’m not really happy with but still has made a huge difference. I’m on the lookout for a better one. I’d like to get 3-4 more of different sizes and styles.
Good luck on your next project.
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Initially I was shooting this bow with 505 grain arrows, bought some 375 grain (with points), definite improvement. Decided to add an arrow shelf and wrap the handle with leather (moose). Did ok with the wrap, shelf works good. Shot it several more times and the self and wrap helped. Final pics. Note, the dark grain is from stain I added earlier - got ahead of myself and bow needed more work. Leather wrap; I need more experience with this. Thanks for all the feedback it helped me a lot
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Bow came out real nice, especially for your 1st. Before you tackle those hickory staves make sure they are dry if you only cut them a few months ago. Hickory likes to be dryer than most woods or it will take excessive set when tillering, and be sure you seal it real good when done because it will absorb moisture and become sluggish if not. Looking forward to seeing more of your bows in the future.
If you can find an old/vintage drawknife that has not been abused, for the price, it would probably have better steel than an inexpensive newly made one. I’ve had good luck finding lightly used ones at antique malls for $25 to $50.
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Nice first bow. Like the burlap backing too.
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Plan is to build another Red Oak board bow, 72" nock to nock. I feel like I need a little more experience and need to gain more knowledge before taking on the Hickory.
Thanks for all the help and direction from all. Note: I have shot my first bow a total of 40 times so far and the more I shoot it, the more I like it.
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Finished my first bow. I went back and reworked the handle area, much better. Currently I am at 116 shots with the bow with no issues. Pic is me at full draw.
Working on 2nd bow, Decided to go with the other half of board from my first bow. 62" Nock to Nock with burlap backing. Bow is shaped, backing glued, tillering almost complete. Hope to take to local bow shop to check poundage of both bows tomorrow. If all looks good I will glue on a short extension to the handle and shape like my first bow.
A big thank you to all the help I got for folks on this sight...made a difference.
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Really nice job! I can tell you took you’re time on it and did it right!
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Oki, that is so impressive! Nicely done. Jawge