Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bjrogg on January 01, 2017, 02:41:23 pm
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I'm working on this HHB that is a really nice stave except for the handle. It had a nasty knot that took a chunk out of fade area so I decided to remove the wood to where I still had a slight bit of fade and good wood in it. I filled missing parts of knot with sanding dust from some cherry and black walnut and really thin super glue. I glued my cherry and black walnut together with TB2. I'm wondering what to use to glue this block to bow. I have 5 min epoxy, or TB2. I was thinking TB2 but not sure with that dust and super glue. The fellow that I'm making it for wants to be able to shoot it right or left handed so I'm thinking a narrow deep handle. Any suggestions appreciated I'm almost ready to glue
Bjrogg
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I like smooth on epoxy but with what you're u have I would use the 5 min epoxy. But would rough up the middle of each piece and leave the out side edges smooth for good fit up.
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Make sure you feather the handle block out in the fades good. You don't want it to pop off the first time it's shot
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Osage it's where it's not bend and my plan is to keep it that way. I've got it glued on think I'm gonna spend the next couple hours in the woods only a couple hours of our season left
Bjrogg
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BJ you can build it up with leather, it looks really good once it is all finished. Don't use 5 min epoxy no matter what, tb2 will work or get some slower set epoxy if you have too
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5 minute epoxy is pretty poor strength stuff. Don't use it! TB2 is much better. Just make 100% sure your surfaces mate perfectly.
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Sorry Bubby and Mike, I already glueded it on with 5 min epoxy. I suppose I could try to wack it off with a hammer or something if it pops off start over if it stays leave it.
Bubby my plan is this. I've glued this oversized block on handle. The person I'm making it for shoots both right and left handed. I thought I'd rasp it down narrow after the fades but deep so it was as close to string as I can get it from both sides of handle and as close to the same on both sides as I can get it. Not cutting arrow shelf just wrap handle build it up to shoot off either side.
Thanks for reply guess I should have waited to glue it on here's what I got so far.
Bjrogg
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I would be real surprised if your handle stays on with 5 minute epoxy, been there, done that.
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I don't see your narrowing the handle for ambidextrous shooting being a viable option. Maybe if you cut the block off and re-glue it with better Epoxy. Still you'll be crowding a lot of stress into a condensed area.
Better to have a longer fade for a bow like that so that any movement is well away from the narrow and/or glued part.
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Thanks for the in replies guys. I my have to start over on this handle maybe even make this bow for someone else. I did have it clamped in vice and whacked handle with hammer several times it seems to be well glued but I'm sure you guys know way more about this than I do.
Pat by narrow I'm thinking maybe 3/4" wide handle where arrow would rest and as close to center of string as possible. That would if everything went perfect be 3/8" off center shot both ways. However this probably isn't the best handle to try this with. The bow still needs to go on a diet it is still very heavy and handle is not shaped at all yet I usually shape handle last thing so I can clamp it in vice for working on rest of bow. Sure wish I'd have waited to glue it for more info now. I know what your saying about the longer fade and I might scrap the idea of this one going ambidextrous as it wasn't in my original plan. Thanks again everyone all info appreciated
Bjrogg
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Well you have it on may as well give it a go bj😉 ya never know you just might get lucky🙏
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I guess right now that's what I'm thinking to Bubby. I think this bow might go to someone else though. I really think it will work better for a right hander but we'll see what happens when I come to that bridge. Thanks again everyone
Bjrogg
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Well you guys where right as usual😊. On my noon hour today I clamped bow in vice by block I glued on and started rasping towards end of limb and it popped off. I think the good news is I had it on tillering tree up to 55lbs and it was good there so hopefully if I glue it with the right glue next time it will work. Also now I don't have to cut it off. It might have been 5min epoxy but it was still soft after 20 hours in between the block. I scraped,filed, sanded surface now should I use TB2 or something else. If something else what and where can I get it
Bjrogg
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Glue on two 1/8" thick strips first and then the bulk of your handle, it will stay on for sure that way.
If there is any bending near the handle the thin shims will bend and not pop off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/featheringfadesBBO_zps638d4aee.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/bow%20making/featheringfadesBBO_zps638d4aee.jpg.html)
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Ok thanks a bunch Eric, that makes perfect sense to me now. Would it be ok to use TB2 or something else?
Bjrogg
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TB 3 is good and very water resistant.
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You need to use a glue with no creep for an application like that.
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Pat I'm sorry but I'm kinda dumb when it comes to glues. I'm not sure what "no creep" means. I'm guessing that it's something not absorbed by the wood. I might have to look up some of the glue post
I've read but not really paid enough attention to.
Bjrogg
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The tight bond glues have a little creep or slide action but if you do like Erick said with the lams or use strips of leather you should be ok . this is one reason i went to a bow epoxy
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Thanks Bubby don't imagine you can buy that glue at hardware store? Probably best bet would be 3r?
Bjrogg
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Bj i use smooth on get it from 3 rivers or the factory. There is a urea based that u can get at the hardware store but i can't remember the name right now i know u just add water like unibond maybe someone will chime in with the name i know patb knows what it is maybe pm him
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It's dap weldwood plastic resin glue
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Thanks Bubby, thanks everyone. Funny how something that seems so easy can get kinda complicated
Bjrogg
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Well I got this one tillered to where I have to start working close to the fades and it needed handle for that. I took Eric's advice and cut 3 narrow strips, 2 black walnut and 1 Mulberry. After fileing and scrapping everything as flat as I could get it I glued it up with TB2. I roughed out the fades handle still needs shaping but I think this will work. Thanks for the help everyone
Bjrogg
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👍👍
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You're fade angle is still a bit too steep/abrupt. You'll have better luck with a flatter transition from riser block to limb. Josh
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I finished up this handle I really like how it turned out. It is 7/8" wide where arrow contacts
handle.It shoots the same spine arrows right or left hand and my friend likes how it fits his hand. Original plan was to wrap handle but it shoots nice off knuckles and he likes how it looks naked. I put one more thin piece of cedar on. Thanks again for all the help
Bjrogg
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Looks good BJ ! Bob
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Thanks Bob, I've always put arrow shelfs in my handles but I've been shooting left handed a lot lately. I made a left hand handle with arrow shelf for my son and now this ambidextrous handle. I'm actually getting pretty comfortable shooting left handed and like the shoot opportunities it could provide.
Bjrogg
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Looks good bj i think you have it figured out
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Thanks Bubby and thanks for all the help. I'm afraid it would have been a disaster without everyone's help.
Bjrogg