Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ricardovanleeuwen on April 30, 2020, 04:40:23 am
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I was making a bow for a Friends of me but halfway tillering i hinged one of te tips , i tried to Heat threat Them but after that i broke the tip off. I cutted a nee nock in It and made the other half the same wich left me with a 44 inch nock to nock of 45 1/2 tip to tip roughed out shortbow. I Will keep this bow and give my other bow to my groene because he is a bit of rough and doesn't really understand that not every bow is the same and Will probably overdraw this bow.
What Will be best to do now? Leave the width profile as It is? And what drawlenght is possible for still a decent draw weight? Would backing It with b55 string work to get longer draw from it? (Dont think i can manage to get sinew with my budget atm)
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Forgot to mention that its elm (i think rock elm)
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Someone please?
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backing it with something might keep it from breaking suddenly , but will not increase draw length.
making the bow thinner (and thereby, reducing the draw weight) will increase drawlength.
why don't you trace the back profile, and draw it a bit further each time to see where it begins to take set?
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Glue on some extensions and make it 20 inches longer.
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why don't you trace the back profile, and draw it a bit further each time to see where it begins to take set?
whats the point of this?
And patm, u mean splicing some tips on?
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why don't you trace the back profile, and draw it a bit further each time to see where it begins to take set?
whats the point of this?
If you trace the back profile (unbraced) against a chackboard, or some cardboard, you can then brace and draw it to, say, 23" a couple of times, unbrace it, and then compare against the profile you traced. If it has taken any set, you will have to reduce weight, in order to be able to draw it longer. If it didn't take any set, then you brace it, try drawing it another inch, unbrace, compare, and so on...
The drawlength where it starts to take set is the longest you can get at that thickness, if you want longer draw, you will have to reduce weight.
However, with a 45 inch length, it will stack A LOT at a normal 28" draw, maybe even slip out of the knocks. So you will probably have to flip the tips no matter what, if you want that drawlength.
Hope that helps explain
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It will break at 28 inch draw
28 is not really normal,..for wood bows,,
Maybe save this one till u have some sinew
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Not really aiming to 28 draw. I used the 2x +10% rule and Comes on 20 inch wich i Will be ok with
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And when the bend make it possible to let te string slip off i Will glue on some notches behind the string nocks
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I think with 48" and a 20" draw, thats not so likely to happen.
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Not really aiming to 28 draw. I used the 2x +10% rule and Comes on 20 inch wich i Will be ok with
And when the bend make it possible to let te string slip off i Will glue on some notches behind the string nocks
How far do you want to draw the bow?
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Not really aiming to 28 draw. I used the 2x +10% rule and Comes on 20 inch wich i Will be ok with
And when the bend make it possible to let te string slip off i Will glue on some notches behind the string nocks
How far do you want to draw the bow?
As far as possible without sinew, i Saw some sisal cordage at out hobby shop for a few euro and bought a roll. Im Thinking to try a backing from It, and if It ain't for performance, its Just for a different look/experience
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As far as possible without sinew, i Saw some sisal cordage at out hobby shop for a few euro and bought a roll. Im Thinking to try a backing from It, and if It ain't for performance, its Just for a different look/experience
sinew will allow you to draw the bow further because you would be building a substantial back out of an entirely different materiel. other backings will not increase the draw length, they will only help keep the bow from flying apart when it breaks. drawing the bow past 20-22 inches will crush the belly wood, even if the backing keeps it together unless you tiller it until set begins to show.
Sisal will be a good experiment, as it may possibly allow some extra draw, how much I cannot say.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,56612.0.html
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Without money for sinew, enjoy making a shorter draw bow. I get the restriction on $$$.
(I... try siyahs, Finnish bow types. Might that work if you are set on longer draw?)
Easy to place excessive set in a short bow, when asking too much of it.
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Without money for sinew, enjoy making a shorter draw bow. I get the restriction on $$$.
(I... try siyahs, Finnish bow types. Might that work if you are set on longer draw?)
Easy to place excessive set in a short bow, when asking too much of it.
dont syahs strain the working limb more? And do you glue Them like tip overlays or splice Them?
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sinew will allow you to draw the bow further because you would be building a substantial back out of an entirely different materiel. other backings will not increase the draw length, they will only help keep the bow from flying apart when it breaks. drawing the bow past 20-22 inches will crush the belly wood, even if the backing keeps it together unless you tiller it until set begins to show.
Sisal will be a good experiment, as it may possibly allow some extra draw, how much I cannot say.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,56612.0.html
yeah i already Read the advantage of sinew so i was looking for something simmilar. Then i Saw this threat https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=50686.0 so that's why i would try It.
Is there a difference between adding It with pva glue or hide glue? Difference in the way of one of Them is better? Because i think aplying It with pva seems easyer
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you might post in one of those threads, and if joachim has notifications turned on, he will see your new post. otherwise, you could PM him and possibly converse in a language closer to home.
hide glue seems messier at first, but if you use some hot air to keep it from setting up too fast, I think it will work better.
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Making hide glue while tillering.
How should i prepare the back for adding the sisal? Rough It up with a Saw (scraping)?
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I agree with add siyahs ,and make the bow longer.
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Cut another stave and get it drying :)
Then have fun playing with this one. Learn how and when to slow down with wood removal so you don't get hinges.
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In going to try siyahs, the question is, how to glue Them on? Like tip overlays or splice?
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https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/north-eurasian-laminated-bow-t29305.html
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I have never done siyahs.
V splice seems strongest, easiest.
Looking forward to the replies.
A great piece of hickory board, excellent grain, I have is about 50.5", and I am unsure if I want to do attached ends, static, siyahs, sinew, etc.
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The easyest for me would be a scarf joint haha, i only got a pruning Saw, a not straight cutting metal hacksaw a dull carpenters Saw and a dull back Saw
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Did some Heat treating and couldnt let It to reflex the limbs a bit. Probably way too much ( done one limb) so going to deflex the handle
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If the reflex pulls out i Will put siyahs on but i shot It before Heat treating and could draw It close to 20 inch, not really sure didn't measure it but It shot a quite thick cane Arrow pretty fast so if i make some rose arrows... And when Both limbs are treated i Will try the sisal
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Since sisal dont have a lot of elasticity in wondering if It wouldnt be better to roughly weave It into a belt/strap like this leather belt for example
As i see It u can put more sisal per distance but they cant be fully pull straight because they work each other
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Since the other limb didn't want to really reflex i made the first one straighter and plan on doing siyahs before backing. A question, do i have to curve the siyahs out a piece of Wood or can i Just glue in a straight piece but under An angle?
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Without money for sinew, enjoy making a shorter draw bow. I get the restriction on $$$.
(I... try siyahs, Finnish bow types. Might that work if you are set on longer draw?)
Easy to place excessive set in a short bow, when asking too much of it.
dont syahs strain the working limb more? And do you glue Them like tip overlays or splice Them?
Not if they are just added to a short bow. The wood only needs to bend the same amount and the added siyah allows that same amount of bend to translate to a longer draw length.
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Aah i get It, but why not splice a straight piece to itvthen?
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You can. "Siyah" does not denote a particular shape or angle.