Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: TimothyR on July 29, 2014, 08:16:36 pm
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Have this osage stave its 2 1/4" x 63" the knot is about 5" from the end...I think I can work around it. I don't really want a bendy handle and my draw is 28" I can go 26" if need be. I would like get y'alls opinion on the dimensions. I can go with a bendy handle but never made one. Please help. Thanks in advance. Timothy
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You can probably work around that knot. remove the rings around it so you can get a good view of the grain as it swirls around the knot.
63" is plenty for a stiff handle bow drawing 28". Just take your time and don't rush the tiller or stress the bow unnecessarily as you tiller.
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I forgot to say im going for 45-50# primitive. Sinew backed with a gut string. Don't know if you need to know that but there it is :laugh: thanks.
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I agree with Pat,
You got enough at 63" - 50# @ 28" and you can make the last 6" of the tip stiff.
DBar
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You could easily do a selfbow in the 45# to 50# with that stave so no need for the sinew unless you just wanted it.
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Rings look pretty thick to me.
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Thanks guys...I was thinkin sinew because the rings are kinda thin.
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Definatley thick ringed stuff. But sinew back is cool if you are patient :)
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Rings look ok to me too.......if you want to sinew.......recurve it if there are no knots. :) :(
DBar
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Rings look good to me. I prefer thin rings over thick. Get a good pristine ring run on the back and you won't need sinew. Add it if you want to but not as a patch for a suspect back, and that shouldn't be to hard with this one. 63" long. 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" at the fades to mid limb and taper it to little bitty tips. 4" handle 2" fades. That's what I would start with. Good luck with it!
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Shouldn't be a problem at all, I'm just finishing up a 60" Osage bow with sinew and reflex tips. It has a stiff handle and I'm pulling it to 27" and it will do 28". Good luck and just follow that grain around that knot. Patrick
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Great info thank you so much guys. I will post pics of my progress.
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I worked this down to almost bow dimensions and it developed some fine cracks in one of the limbs. I'll try to post pics but I don't think you can see the cracks. I don't think they go very deep but are kinda long. Is it firewood or should I fill the cracks and back it?
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When was the wood cut? Always play it safe and shellac the back if its greenish. They look lime they're running with the grain, but personally id back with rawhide
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The stave was cut in march. I was thinking I could use deer sinew I dont have any rawhide.
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Ya for osage thats pretty green.if you have enough thickness still, you could chase another ring and seal it up rihht away. Then put that baby under your bed for a while.
sinew over rawhide for sure, sinew is just alot of work
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yes sealing he back when greenish is good idea,,, the checks seem to be minimal,, seal it now and it will probably work,,
deer sinew will work fine,, and sinew backing is a good skill to know,,, be sure to sand off all sealer,, and wash with boiling water and soap before applying sinew
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if you decide to go with sinew,, you might want to go to 56 nock to nock,,
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Its at 63" tip to tip. If I go any shorter it will take all the character out of it.
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I have a great shooter at 63"NTN, 1-1/2"at fades tapering to 1/2" at tips. 4"handle with 3" out to fades.57lbs @ 28". Osage. Take your time with tiller , watch the grain around the knot and you should be fine.
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Thanks y'all...I've never worked with sinew before but I have plenty and want to learn. I've sealed the back and ends and will let this dry for a bit. Im buying a house and will be closing soon. Will Finnish this baby up after the move and getting settled in. Thanks forre the input and I will post pics when its done.
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Taking the character out of it may not be a bad thing. If you're pulling it to 26" and going to put sinew on it then a shorter bow will react better to the sinew. It will make the sinew work harder resulting in a quicker bow. If you shorten it and put sinew on the back you will get the most work out of it. JMO Patrick.
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I can take it down to 58" and take the knot out completely. Im pulling to 28" but I can go 26" if need be. It will still have a bit of snake in it but not so much. 2" of draw length shouldn't be to hart to adapt to.
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If you sinew back it 58" should still get you 28" draw. But I'm not an expert here. I would love to tell you that is a fact but someone like patb would know a lot more about this subject. Patrick
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Can you not eliminate the knot(go around it) and still have enough wood to continue? You could easily do a 58" sinew backed bow for a 28" draw but your tillering will have to be right on. I'd kick the tips a bit too to help with the string angle at full draw and also have the limbs work into the handle at full draw. Remember it will be months before you should shoot the bow so the sinew has time to cure. You could be shooting a selfbow a lot sooner. For me a sinew backed bow is a project that I develop and execute with the same frame of mind from start to finish and not just a fixer upper. You are at a point now where you can make that decision.
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make it how you like .. or how you want it to look, , usually sinew bows dont perform as well at longer lengths(yes it can be done with special tiller consideration),,, the sinew is heavy,, and to get the most from it,, bows that are about double the draw just shoot a little harder,,, if you put one or two layers to strengthen the back,, it will probably shoot fine like a good self bow,, but to gain performance from the sinew, the shorter bow is usually a better design,,,I get your point about wanting to save the character,,, so do what works best for you,,, thats what is fun about the wood bows, ,,, lots of options to consider and ponder,,
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I may try to take it down another ring or two reseal it and let it dry a month or two and Get this move over with. Try to get under the cracks.