Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: 4giveme on December 29, 2013, 09:48:45 am
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Hi Guys,
Happy holidays to you all. The reason why I am posting is that I just started a new build a long. We will be working on a 52 inch red elm stave. part 1, 2, 3, are up and ready to watch on you tube. Please watch this build a long and enjoy the ride. Your questions and comments are always welcome.
Part 1 http://youtu.be/dI41g0s3vDM
Part 2 http://youtu.be/RaMBivV4T4A
Part 3 http://youtu.be/qHeTlRONp8I
Thanks Tommy
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Looking forward to seeing the finished bow Tommy! Thanks for sharing.
Tattoo Dave
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hi guys,
build along is going well. part 4 is just been posted- http://youtu.be/dI41g0s3vDM
Tommy
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Tommy, I clicked on the link to watch Part 4, but it is the link to Part 1
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Hi Johnny,
Thanks for the reply. Sorry about that this should fix it.
Part 4- http://youtu.be/472lKf5RbDQ
Part 5- http://youtu.be/DYgDJwd4qhw
Thanks Tommy
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At the end of part five it sounds like you intend to taper the back of the bow? As in, same process as applied to the belly, but on the back?
It's been done, but it's nowhere near safe. I've reduced weight on a couple bows, including a mollegabet I've got drying right now, by removing one or two back rings to lose forty pounds after the tiller looks right, and just had to do minor adjustments thereafter. But please, try to keep a whole back ring; I really like the looks of this stave.
Also, the way I get my floor tiller is by looking at the belly rings, like you showed. It's best to be sure that the ring out of the fade doesn't taper and then bulge going into the handle as that will lead to a lot of fade bend, which makes for a whole lot of set.
I'm probably preaching to the choir, but no sense keeping quiet, right?
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that's coming along nicely
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Hi huisme,
Thanks for the post. Love to hear things from the other side of the coin. You may see something I am missing, and that's helpful to me. I did wind up chasing two rings on the sap wood. It worked out great. I was able to get on ring from knock to knock. So all good there. She is just about to start to bend for the floor tiller. This is where it gets good, we are almost ready to steam in the d/r profile. Please keep the comments coming they are helpful. Part 6 coming soon. You you subscribed to my channel.
God bless and happy new year,
Tommy
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Thanks BowSlayer, It looks really good, wish I the clips did it justice. :-\ I am trying to get better at editing the footage to make watching it easier.
God bless and happy new year.
Tommy
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hi all part 6 up on youtube
Part 6- http://youtu.be/qY_JoELdTRM
thanks Tommy
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It looks like a lot of bend is going on just out of the fades. I'd tiller everywhere but the inner limb from now on until you get a uniform bend going.
I like what you did with the back. This is gonna be great ;D
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Hello huisme,
I am working the tips as we speak. its looking good and I am hoping to finish with the long string tiller tonight (goal 50#@24). So I then can commence the steaming. >:D
Thanks for watching and for the advise (which is always welcome).
Tommy
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hi all,
The next installment of the Red Elm bow is out!!!
Part 7- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThwdkTwpar4&feature=sharenoembed&list=UU86XyWtp2Qfnce5J_8IoCPw&index=1
Tommy
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Ouch. Well, a broken bow represents a lesson learned, right?
Just my two cents: if I'm going to do any heavy bending, like for r/d bows, I chase the belly to a single ring and do the bending before there's any taper. I've had a lot more success bending recurves and reflex on blanks with one-ring bellies than on floor-tillered bows.
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I agree with you. that's how did the others but thought it would work. that's what happens when you get out of order. :laugh: but there will be others. I will post follow ups on this thread about the 40 incher I am going to make from the stave that was to be the 52 inch red elm. Any tips on bend through the handle builds you can share?
thanks for the support
Tommy
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Bendy handled bows are easy to make too bendy in the middle, so on those short ones especially I say bend the inner limb/handle last; start the bend in the tips and work your way in. Try to get to a four inch brace bending nothing but the outer thirds, and then start working in evenly for that D shape. Remember that if the handle is going to be thinner than the surrounding working wood it's going to have to be significantly thicker, the fades will need to taper evenly, and the handle should bend the least out of all the wood due to its more narrow profile making it more prone to set.
I'm glad you cut out your handles later than I do, otherwise you wouldn't have much to salvage :o
For forty inches you're looking at pretty low draw length and weight, as I'm sure you knew, but good tiller on forty inches of wood will always look and feel impressive. If you keep the weight around thirty pounds I'd even bet you could keep set below an inch if tillering goes well.
You going to post as continuing the videos? I'm sure your audience would appreciate seeing your salvaged triumph ;D
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Hi all,
Just wanted to up date you guys on the stave that just keeps giving. the link to the updated playlist is below.
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7LisT2EUBEwFIMtJe_IRVHRCms-5tGCp
thanks
Tommy