Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stick Bender on January 14, 2017, 06:20:25 pm
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Hi Fellas this is a bow I have been working on for the last month or so it's 65 NTN I have it pulled to about 20 in. In the draw pic & reversed & took another pic in the unstrung pic on the left limb was deflexed & had a lateral correction some of the correction along with some minor set mid limb around the undulation the right is all natural Please let me know what your tiller thoughts are ?
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More pics
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More
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Brace
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A front profile pic would help...is it a molly design?
Looks like the top limb is stiff.
DBar
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Here is the front profile semi Parallel/Pyramid the 2 top draw pics are one time botom limb up drew & then reveresed the bow to top limb up.
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2nd FD pic tiller is better......
DBar
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2nd FD pic tiller is better......
DBar
+1 looks like bottom fade is working a little more. Cheers- Brendan
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Try to grip the bow the same every time, and if you are using any kind of tillering tree/stick try to duplicate the pressure point at the handle on the tree to match the way you grip the bow. Any changes in how pressure is spread across the grip/belly of handle will effect tiller.
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unless those tips are extremely "eifel towered", you don't need that much extra thickness at the tips. . Tip weight = hand shock and loss of speed.
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yeah it looks like you should narrow the tips? if you're making it sort of like a mollegabet
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If the string is tracking the way you want through the handle I would orient the bow as in the second FD pic. The top limb has more reflex and it will show in the FD at this point. I would take a few scrapes midlimb on the top and excercise the bow plenty. Tiller looks pretty good to me. You do want to thin the tips a little when you get close to FD.
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Ok thanks guys it helps to put it under the magnifying glass with you guys , I plan on trying to get the tips scary thin when I'm done I have it only pulled to 21 in. it's going out to 29 in. Thanks Jonw for your observation on the reflex this stave was really deflexed on that limb to start , I'm going to throw it back on the caul this morning to reheat the whole limb
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Looks good. It looks like the top limb is stronger, Stick Bender, but I can't tell for sure. It looks like it is tipping towards you. When you raw it, even at short draws, try to sense if the handle pressure is even. Jawge
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I would maybe just put it to a higher brace at this stage too soon.Just to strain it to be sure how things are going to line up like JonW said.
You can narrow those tips later close to 1/2".9/16" is more than enough for thickness and maybe 5/8" wide at most 8" down from the tip if you want that to stay stiff.Last 4" of tip can be 1/2" square.Then edges rounded nice.It all depends on how long your fades and handle are with an elliptical tiller to avoid a lot of that hand shock too.A 9" handle altogether should be good enough.Looks good from here at this stage.Your well on your way.Don't worry too much about set unless in a certain small area.Like always said set happens.Slow and steady wins the race at this stage.If the set is shown evenly along both limbs your doing good.Maybe too much comment but that's what I would do with your bow.
Great advice earlier from others too about gripping and feeling the bow while drawing it.
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Draw it in a more balanced manner. Holding it low with your wrist collapsed and the string held away from where you will actually nock an arrow will throw the whole tiller picture off.
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Draw it in a more balanced manner. Holding it low with your wrist collapsed and the string held away from where you will actually nock an arrow will throw the whole tiller picture off.
What Pat said!
here is a copy of an answer I gave some time ago to a guy:
when taking pics of a f/d for asking about bending you should have:
- hold the bow absolute vertically
- put an arrow on the string
- camera angle perpenticular to the bow side
- camera height at the height of your hand
- draw at the right place of the string (nocking point)
otherwise it could be that the camera angle gives a wrong shape of the bend