Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: crooketarrow on November 26, 2012, 09:48:08 am

Title: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on November 26, 2012, 09:48:08 am
  HERE'S A FEW OF MY TRADE POINTS. 1/8"x 1"x 3"s and 3 dog wood arrows[/img]
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: Pappy on November 26, 2012, 09:53:18 am
Looks like they should do the trick.Nice heads. :)
   Pappy
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: stringstretcher on November 26, 2012, 10:02:52 am
Nice looking points.  About what do they weigh at those dimensions and what steel was used to make them?
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on November 26, 2012, 10:59:44 am
  There made of 1095 carbon steel,old saw mill blades. I'VE BEEN MAKEING AND SHOOTING THAT TYPE OF OVER 10 YEARS. I've shot quite a few bucks and a couple doe's with them. There temper around 56 ,57 ROCKWELL. NOT REAL HARD BUT I'VE NEVER HAD ONE ROLL BACK EVEN ON BONE. lOWERE THE ROCKWELL HARDNESS THE EASYER IT IS TO SHARPEN. I RETEMPER THEM IN A KICKEN OVEN. THATS AS HIGH ROCKWELL I CAN GET WITH A KICKEN OVEN.
   I just make them all the same size. I hav'nt weighted a point or arrow in years. But just guessing there some where around 160, 175 gain. Last year I made them 3/4's in stead of a inch. I like the 3/4 's a little better and may yet cut those down to 3 /4's.
  i
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: Dictionary on November 26, 2012, 04:13:32 pm
Very nice. What tools do you use to make them from saw mill blades?
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on November 26, 2012, 04:24:07 pm
  VICE, HACKSAW,GRINDER, FILE
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on November 26, 2012, 04:25:01 pm
  FORGOT OVEN
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: Dictionary on November 26, 2012, 05:47:41 pm
What type of oven and at what degrees? I'm guessing you heat the metal up to soften it.
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: carpentertimw on November 27, 2012, 11:00:09 am
   crooketarrow, one thing you may or may not know, is when you use all caps, on the internet that means your yelling. and it makes it hard to read. so please avoid using all caps. :)
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: Dictionary on November 27, 2012, 12:44:01 pm
   crooketarrow, one thing you may or may not know, is when you use all caps, on the internet that means your yelling. and it makes it hard to read. so please avoid using all caps. :)

He always types in caps. I think his keyboard may be malfunctioning  ;D
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on November 27, 2012, 01:03:24 pm
  I'm sorry but when ever someone uses caps I DON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS READING THEM.
 
 I do aneal them but only if I need to if I need to. If a file cuts the blade easy the rockwell of 55,56 or lower thats soft enough you don't have to aneal and you can cut them out like they are. Older blades are really soft in the low 50's those cut nice like they are. And at 1/8 inch are still hard enough that they won't roll back on bone. The lower the hardness the easyer it is to shapen. But won't stay sharp as long as harder heads.
    If it's harder to file a cut ,it's higher hardness then you have to aneal them. To do this just heat blade to cherry red. that takes the cabon out of the steel. You have to replace the carbon back before you temper it. Just heat to cherry red and quince (cool) in VEG.OIL that puts the carbon back in the steel.

 I use the kicten oven. Cut,shape and sharpen then reharden them. I use a torch but don't get the heat (flame) close to the edge. It's cherry red and it will burn(roll back) the edge off. AFTER  REHARDENING. Preheat the oven to 400% but your heads in for a hour. Take them out and let them air dry completely cool. Then do it a second time the same way but at 450%. This puts your heads around mid rockwell hardness.
 
  But it's alot easyer ana alot less steps if you start with stell solf enough to cut and shape aready.
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: Dictionary on November 27, 2012, 06:13:24 pm
I don't have the ability to heat the metal up to that heat. So i guess should just use softer metals then? Im thinking about picking up a cheap  circular saw blade at like harborfreight for 5 bucks. I figure that metal is probably softer and can be cut with a hacksaw and filed down with a simple file?
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: autologus on November 28, 2012, 10:50:31 am
Those are very nice.

Grady
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on November 29, 2012, 11:51:12 am
  DICT. I'm not sure how hard they are. MOST NEW BLANDS ONLY HAVE THE TEETH HARDEN AND TEMPERED. If you can cut it with a hacksaw really easy it's probely just the teeth. Even unhardened unless really thin. It still be hard to been one. They might not get razon Sharp but shape enough to get pass throughs. Unharden stell down stay shape.
  Personally I've never used those kind of blades. I go to flea makets and pick old saw mill blades for around 15 to 20 dollors. You can cut a lot of heads and knife blanks for one mill blade. They use'lly come in 15,18,24 and 36. 24 and 36 is the biggest I've ever bought. But there 3 /16's but the 15 and 18 inch are 1/8 just right for heads.
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: richardzane on November 30, 2012, 08:53:51 pm
very nice points!  and nice straight shafts too ...are they dogwood shoots? or cut from dogwood lumber?
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: Dictionary on November 30, 2012, 08:56:34 pm
  I'm sorry but when ever someone uses caps I DON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS READING THEM.


What does that even mean?
Title: Re: TRADE POINTS, ARROWS
Post by: crooketarrow on December 01, 2012, 09:02:01 pm
   Dog wood shoots.
 Dic. what do you mean.