Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tradslinger on January 14, 2021, 12:16:52 pm
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This is a 66" roughed out Osage that has been previously reflexed on the tips but is now ready to be floor tillered. It is 1/2" at the tips, 2" wide at the fadeouts. The reflex is the last 8" or so and is about 2" or more in height. I plan to add antler overlays. I just have never tillered anything with a reflex much less reflexed tips. I was told to leave the tips a little thicker. any tricks to do with the long string? I figure that a short long string that isn't tight might be easier to manage. I still haven't cut the nocks yet, was going to do the overlays first.
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"Reflex" usually refers to the side profile of the working limbs. You are talking about the recurve or recurved tips. 8" is a little long for a static recurve. You need to decide whether you want it to be a static or working one. I basically treat stiff tips as non-working parts of the limbs like fades. As for working recurve tips, I guess you can simply consider them as the more reflexed parts of the working limbs. I just look for nice even curves of all working parts.
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The biggest struggle that I've found working with bows like that is that they have a tendency to want to flip upside down in the tillering rack if not secured (until they are braced). I usually use a leather sling so I can better judge how even the limbs move, but with a bow like that I've found I have to use some sort of cradle that prevents the bow from turning over.
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I definitely can see how and why the bow might flp over or try to. to make it a static tip, it needs to be thicker at the tip area, correct? Still waiting on my Trad bow builders bible to get in. I figure the only safe wat to string it later is using a stringer. I do appreciate any and all help. a :BB in the works, Jerry
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You will be able to stirng it with the push/pull method.
Tight long string on all bows in my opinion.
You can clamp the handle in the vice and pull the limbs end to check floortiller/vicetiller :)
The trick is to get these sort of bows nice and 'limber' or close to final thickness before fighting them too much early on....but that takes experience to eyeball tapers/thickness etc...or luck.
Reflexed bows of any sort will feel heavier than they actually are once strung.
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thanks, the vice thing may be a life saver. I figured that the long string needed to be tight just to keep it on ong enough to do anything. Any advice is better than none at all. I like knowing of various options to work with. so it would best to have a very good floor tiller, meaning a decent bend closer towards a short string than maybe a straighter limb tip
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Do not pull the bow more than your desired draw weight. Do exercise the bow after any removal of wood. Highly reflexed bows can lose weight suddenly.
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Do not pull the bow more than your desired draw weight. Do exercise the bow after any removal of wood. Highly reflexed bows can lose weight suddenly.
oh that part I understand no problem