Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on August 17, 2018, 12:48:20 pm
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I may have asked this before. Apologies if I have. When you're making a "Z" splice does it matter which way it's oriented? If you look at the pictures the pencil is about where the arrow pass would be cut(maybe a bit higher). Do you think one would have an advantage over the other strength wise?
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Makes no difference. I know this because I have spliced a lot of billets together and never paid a nickel of attention to that aspect.
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I always use the second option since it preserves more glueline if you make a slight dent where the arrow pass will be. Not a shelf per se but any sort of necked in area if you don't do a full bulbous grip.
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I have just used a glue on wedge of wood or built up leather so i didnt need to cut into the splice.
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Not to mention the strength gained with a hard backing and a riser section glued in place.
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I have just used a glue on wedge of wood or built up leather so i didnt need to cut into the splice.
If you are fine with leaving it full width as well.
I figure it takes no extra effort to just cut it the opposite way.
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Not to mention the strength gained with a hard backing and a riser section glued in place.
I try and do this. Every once in a while I get real nice glue lines in a splice and I like to show it off. Most off them get back, belly and a leather grip :-[ :-[
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I always use the second option since it preserves more glueline if you make a slight dent where the arrow pass will be. Not a shelf per se but any sort of necked in area if you don't do a full bulbous grip.
That's funny. I've always done it the opposite way because I thought of the splice as a weak point and I figured that eliminating some of the weak point would be best. I see your point though, glue line length is what it's all about. I've always doubted it though, hence this post.
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I have just used a glue on wedge of wood or built up leather so i didnt need to cut into the splice.
This is the end result that I'm after. I can always glue in a shelf but I don't use one. I like getting somewhat close to centershot. This one has a short power lam and backing. I didn't put a belly on this because the splice was pretty good, I thought.
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I have spliced at least 75 sets of billets with a Z splice and make mine 3 1/2" so I can hide it under the handle leather. I almost always glue on a piece to build up the handle as well. I have never had a splice fail or even heard about one failing, there is a lot of glue surface in a splice. I cut about 1/4" deep sight window into my bows, because of my short splice I never cut into the splice but I don't think it would matter at all.
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If you are going to cover with a wrap, I generally glue on my handle before the splice. To explain....your billets would require a build up for each billet then splice, you won't get a much stronger splice in my opinion, yet you WILL plainly see your splice, and require a wrap..
VMB