Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bjrogg on December 22, 2019, 08:55:34 am
-
The project I used this on is actually in the Flint knapping section but I'm thinking it'll get more views here and I'm guessing some here have used this product.
My brother found this can of linseed oil when he was cleaning his house. It was left by the previous owner. I'm thinking it's pretty old but I don't think it was ever opened and it seems good yet. Nothing settled on bottom. It doesn't have much for directions. It does say it's boiled and faster drying. I put it on a piece of driftwood I'm thinking of using for a knife display stand. I put one coat on and it soaked up a bunch of it. About 16 hours later I put on another. It still soaked up a bunch.
My question is. Will this dry with a hard shell or will it keep a almost oily film? Can I put something over top of it? I like the looks of it but I'm afraid it might attract dust if it doesn't form a hard shell.
Bjrogg
Here's the can. I'm thinking Frank from American Pickers would like this can. Oil, good colors and great subject matter.
-
I think driftwood is very open - like a sponge. it will soak up quite a bit. No clues if it will stay sticky, but willing to say no unless you stop coating it or have the display to be water proof?
-
It doesn't have to be waterproof. Really the main reason I sealed it was that I wanted to have something that was kinda cleanable. I'm hoping I don't end up with something that just attracts dust. I did take compressed air to it yesterday and blew it off really good. I haven't seen it yet today. I was hoping to finish it up today if it's dry and I can sneak out for a bit.
Bjrogg
-
I am not familiar with this brand, but generally, you have raw, boiled and polymerized linseed oil. From the label I would say it is polymerized (which means it is heated, unlike "boiled" which is not boiled at all.) It dries much quicker than raw, and dries to a hardened shell. Couple of days between coats.
-
Thanks Slimbob. It says boiled on the can. I'm incouraged to hear that. I really like the way it looks now. My biggest worry is if it just attracts dust.
Bjrogg
-
The boiled oil typically has drying agents added. Metals or petroleum products to speed the drying.
-
I have used 60 - 70 % boiled lineseed oii and 40 - 30% turpentine with a little vinaigre added for preservation
turpentine speed the absorption so use more in the first couple of hands
it wont dry very fast but if you paint thin layers and let dry well it will not stick and collect dust and it will be almost waterproof
if you use very heavy hands it will take ages to dry and tend to make gummy clumps
-
I have used 60 - 70 % boiled lineseed oii and 40 - 30% turpentine with a little vinaigre added for preservation
turpentine speed the absorption so use more in the first couple of hands
it wont dry very fast but if you paint thin layers and let dry well it will not stick and collect dust and it will be almost waterproof
if you use very heavy hands it will take ages to dry and tend to make gummy clumps
I'm kinda guessing the heavy hands is getting me. It looks thin but I know it soaked so much in. I'm hoping the compressed air helped get some of the access oil off..
Bjrogg
-
I've found that a fan really helps dry stuff. Not just linseed oil, but anythings that needs drying. Get that air moving, that's what dries it. Sometimes cuts the drying time in half.
-
You can polish linseed oil with a paper bag if it’s still tacky after a couple days and it will make a hard slick finish. Better yet hit it with furniture polish after you buff it. Then you’ll have a finish for life.
-
Thanks everyone.
DC I'm sure it isn't in a real fast drying place. Temp is about 56 with ceiling fan on. Probably should have brought it in the house.
Thanks hoosierf. So far everything I've heard is putting my mind at ease
Bjrogg
-
It's more of a polymerization with linseed oil than drying. Give it time. It will cure.
-
I use it from time to time and like has been said thin coats and rub it in seems to work best for me. We were just talking about it yesterday and one of the old army retired guys that hang out at the farm said they use to issue a bottle of it with a rifle, with instructions to use thin coat rubbed in once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for life. ;) :) :)
Pappy
-
Yes Pappy
For a good finish yoy rub it in well , let it sit for reat of day then take excess of with rag or towel. You keep repeating this for deep oil finish. It like, then after will rub polymorized Linseed oil and beewax on the let it sit a day and rub off. Love oil finish on bow. Must be maintained but you guys know all that.
HH~
-
Thanks everyone. I decided to finish up my project. Pappy I'll try to remember that. I'll give it a try in a week. It's looking nice to me. I brought it in the house tonight.
I know it's not a bow, but here's a picture of it anyway. If you want to see some more you'll have to look in the Flint knapping section. "First Pass to last pass".
Thanks again
Bjrogg
-
Wow! That is sharp! Both ways.
-
Thanks Slimbob since the picture is on the other page here's another one
Bjrogg
-
Is that obsidian?
-
Yes. Obsidian blade I knapped. Cholla cactus handle with Black Walnut and English Walnut button. I think it's the nicest one I've done yet.
Bjrogg