Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Del the cat on November 06, 2017, 09:07:45 am
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I thought this might be of interest.
The upper image is with no tension on the string.
Every subsequent pic is at 110# pull, they are on a longstring for the first few (dangling just 6") and the last 3 are at brace.
It's a sequence I've been meaning to do for ages and it's not spot on accurate of course due to camera set up etc.
It certainly shows how it progress and how a little work at the end pulls it together.
It's not quite 100% finished but V close as it's only about 5" brace and a whisker short of 30".
I've just added another pic showing the overall set from before I started tillering to the final unstrung shape.
Target was 110# at 30"
I did another pic trying to show how that tricky reflexed left tip flexes by taping a thin spill of boo to the limb.
Del.
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Excellent, Del. This shows a good progression of the tillering process. I especially like the way you added the strip of boo to help you see the progression of the tip movement and bend as you tillered. I'm sure lots of folks will appreciate this.
Thanks! :OK
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Great sequence Del. Very helpful. I've used the bamboo skewers like that. I put a bunch of them on the back with hot glue. Looks like a porcupine but sure helps visualise whats going on.
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Neato
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cool sequence, 1st time I have seen that bamboo skewer trick. I plan to try it, I always struggle with odd shaped staves.
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Awesome Del! I really appreciate all the work you put in to show others how it's done the correct way!
Now I have to make myself a warbow ;D
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Very little set, exceptional work on a challenging stave.
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Good sequence Del. How long is the bow?
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Bamboo skewer trick now stolen! Thanks!
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thanks a lot Del, that surely is a neat trick with the skewer.
And good sequence altogether.
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Good sequence Del. How long is the bow?
It's 73 3/4" ntn.
I roughed it to 40mm wide over the centre section, tapering to 20mm wide at the tips. Thickness was just done by eye.
Didn't measure anything after that, but I did use old style calipers here and there to look for thick spots.
Tips were substantially narrowed over the last 8" or so down to just under 1/2" when doing the nocks.
I did use heat to try and take out a hint of reflex from the left tip mostly for cosmetic reasons... (prob shortly after that top image was taken in an attempt to make it easier to see the tiller)
Del
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I love your progression...Nice work Del...Never seen a stress point...You moved everything...Very interesting post Sir...
Don
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Thanks for posting this sequence Del, very informative.
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So that thin strips simulates imaginary line that would form in non dog leg limb a part of circle? I have a similar looking limb on that hazel bow I am working on, maybe I will use something similar.
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So that thin strips simulates imaginary line that would form in non dog leg limb a part of circle? I have a similar looking limb on that hazel bow I am working on, maybe I will use something similar.
I used the tip of the thin strip marks where the nock is at brace, and so you can see the deflection of that part of the limb at full draw. It does sort of follow the natural curve, but that's more of an accident!
I've stuck small strips of card onto the side of odd shaped limbs every few inches and then draw a thick black straight line on the cards, that allows you to see the whole curve, rather than just the deflection at one point.
Del
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Nice to see, Del. Jawge