Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bow-noob on March 28, 2015, 07:17:12 pm
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I think i fit my whole question in the title. :) I am wondering if after you use dap weld wood plastic resin for a handle splice if you can after it is dry, steam or apply heat with a heat gun to make heat corrections at the handle ? i have hear somewhere that you could with urac, i think they are both urea formaldehyde glues ? thanks
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http://bamboorodmaking.com/html/glues_-_weldwood.html
I have never used it, but I would guess no. Handles are very hard to bend. What are the dimentions where you want to bend and are you bending side to side or front to back?
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I have done it just above and below the splice, where it narrows, with a heat gun, to make side to side adjustments, when using Resorcinol, Urac, and Smooth On in the splice without an issue. No need for steam.
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My suggestion would be for you to call DAP, Weldwood and ask their technical support guys. I've done this with a few companies and have gotten excellent info...from the horses mouth. Those guys in tech support are just like us bow building geeks, they are just geeks for their product. There is probably a 1-800 number right on the label.
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If what you want to do is make a small adjustment in the handle because your glue-up didn't quite go as planned then the answer is yes but you should use dry-heat judiciously and with care.
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When in doubt read the label. Jawge
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TRUE,TRUE
If you've used a joint and hande anytime you use glue YOU CAN'T USE HEAT.
Take your handle off make your bend then remake or rechape your handle.
Then put it back on.
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Thanks for the replies guys, ya i am going to keep researching or do an experiment i guess. I do like the idea of doing some heat corrections just up from the handle that sounds like a pretty good plan, not sure how you would unglue something so strong to get it apart and start over.
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I promass you you had heat you'll find out it's not so strong.
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Some glues get stronger when they're heated to a certain temperature. I've never heard of the glue you're using, but certain urac or resin based glues are great for heating. You can even heat treat laminate bows if you have the right glue.
I've had good success with heating spliced handles to adjust string line after gluing. I just pretend the splice doesn't exist and heat the heck out of it, ease the bow across a bit, clamp it up and let it cool. Not had a single one fail as a result of the heating.
If I were you, I'd either try contacting the manufacturers as suggested, or just knock up a quick splice with the glue and heat it up as if bending. See what happens.
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Id try Uni Bond...................
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I'd done my staighting before I put my hadle on.
Start from a stave spliceing a handle will be a step you can skip.
Theres no glue that I know of that if you heat your handle up enough to bend the wood (handle). That the glue will hold a splice or handle. Much less it gets stronger.
No such glue is made to heat. You have ad heat at a low temp and it not fail but like I said ad enough heat to bend the handle.
But I'm no expert I've built stave bows for the last 23 years. Likely I've only spliced on 7 or 8 handles in my life.
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Theres no glue that I know of that if you heat your handle up enough to bend the wood (handle). That the glue will hold a splice or handle. Much less it gets stronger.
No such glue is made to heat. You have ad heat at a low temp and it not fail but like I said ad enough heat to bend the handle.
There are glues out there that increase in strength if they're heated beyond a certain temperature. Trust me.
If you have a well-glued splice using one of those glues, you can heat around the splice a huge amount without worrying about it failing.
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As a quick addition, this is something I found from an ancient thread over on tradgang:
Okay just got off the phone with titebond
TitebondIII does soften at 150 degrees.
However when heated above 150 (160-180 degrees) then allowed to cool it activates a secondary cross-linking in the glue making it SUPER strong! After it has been heated to temps between 160-180 then allowed to cool it becomes so strong and impervious to heat it will not come apart when soaked in boiling water (they actually test for this).
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Uni Bond is good......have I mentioned that yet? I think I did 2-3 times a few weeks ago when the question was asked about proper glues to be used.
You know what I did about a month ago? Grabbed a bow off the rack that needed a tweaking, it was finished in tung oil and paste wax. I heated it up enough to move what I needed moved and didn't even mar the finish. Lots of things are very possible if a guy actually tries and doesn't just assume or repeat what he reads.
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Is Uni-bond the same stuff as TB? I'm not sure either is available here in the UK, but I know I've had plenty of success heating Cascamite/Resintite (they change the brand name after a bad batch apparently so it's all the same stuff!)
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No. They are completely different.