Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Selfbowman on August 08, 2020, 11:55:31 am
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I’ve done this before with gemsbok horn but this time it’s bamboo. Made another caul with a tad more reflex.
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you made a bow with a gemsbok back? Looking forward to pics of both... :OK
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Pic hopefully
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Yes Bob . I’ve straightened and prepared the back without violating the back ring . Built a new caul with a tad more reflex. Prepared the bamboo and will glue it up sometime today.
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Pic of gemsbok backed bow
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Spent some hours on the heat bench and not finished yet.also I heat treated the back also prior to gluing bamboo on. DC did it on his laminates on his last build . Thought I would try it on this one. Arvin
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Did you post in another thread about the gemsbok backed bow? how did it shoot?
watching with interest to see the profile of the bow off your new caul
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Bob the bow tested good . Short of Steve’s record but may be a contender with the right conditions. 222 yds was best test shot. Just trying different backs for simple composite class Arvin
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Is the boo backed bow osage?
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Yes DC
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I was a little concerned that heat treating the back of the belly would affect the glue up but it didn't seem to harm it. I'll be watching, I've got a piece of Osage that I can't make a decision on.
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Pic of growth rings
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The rings are real even but getting that back flat enough to not violate a growth ring took some doing with dry heat. Now if I can keep in one growth ring when tillering the belly. Arvin
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that's pretty cool Arvin. I don't think I have ever seen the horn on the back...usually it's on the belly. Now, bamboo backed osage is a marriage made in heaven... :)
Seeing the picture of your edge grain reminds me of my favorite bamboo backed osage...but I used the most perfect edge grain osage I've ever seen for the belly slat. It's the one I shot at MoJam.
Looking forward to seeing the finished bow and the stats on it's performance. (SH)
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Miserable bow making weather!
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Here is a pic of bow on the 2x4 caul before the bamboo is going to be applied. Arvin
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how exactly do you go about getting the back of a stave flat to the point that it is good enough to mate with the bamboo backing?
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1 a good caul
2 a good heat gun
3 a good stave
4 ryobi 4x36
5 scrapers I f needed
6 which is supposed come first . Asking for Gods help!
It was easier with the horn because it’s more flexible. That being said I think I can. I think I can. I think I can. ;D
Arvin
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Say Arvin, why are you putting so much emphasis in having a flat single back ring to put the bamboo on? I understand the belly ring, but not the back?
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Well sleek the real reason I guess my selfbows can shoot farther. The rings are real even and I need a back for the class. I don’t know. >:D
Arvin
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Well sleek the real reason I guess my selfbows can shoot farther. The rings are real even and I need a back for the class. I don’t know. >:D
Arvin
Lol, makes sense! Im gonna have to make a bamboo backed bow too now. If im going to the flats, I may as well bring an arsenal with me.
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Are you really coming? That’s fantastic! Need some more folks for sure. Takes more than one old Californian to keep that arrogant Texan in line! >:D >:D I would love to see more of you guys there. Maybe put Faces to names. Arvin
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More heat . On the bench and the yard! Yuk!!!!!
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The terminology folks are slipping. A backed selfbow? You can't say that!
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Are you really coming? That’s fantastic! Need some more folks for sure. Takes more than one old Californian to keep that arrogant Texan in line! >:D >:D I would love to see more of you guys there. Maybe put Faces to names. Arvin
I'm gonna do my best. Plan is to buy my plane ticket next week I hope.
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Well Pat my other bad subject was grammar !!! O:)
Arvin
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This is the best I am willing to do at this time.
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Ok 3-3/4 before bamboo.
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Whats your width? Is it your standard 2 inches?
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Puting a little pre bend on the bamboo. Grass don’t care for heat much.
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Well I think it will end up a 1-5/8 or there abouts.67ntn 9 inch handle. Pretty much same bow just another inch of reflex if I can manage to hold it thru tiller. Arvin
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Wish I could load video. I’d show the back of the selfbow. Oh there I go again with bad grammar. Arvin
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Surfaces ready to glue up. A quick dry check. Good but not perfect.
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Question? What glue would y’all recommend for boo to Osage? Unibond 800, smoothon, or hide glue are your choices. Arvin
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I always used URAC and think unibond is about the same, but everyone seems to be using smooth-on now. Both will work.
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the epoxy might be better if you are concerned about gaps
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Why do you have the bamboo so thick? Thin boo glues up way nicer, it conforms to the waves.
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What DC said...that stave with bamboo that thick and you will have a war-bow weight when it dries... are you adding a power lam?
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No power lam. Simple composite. What’s more heavy bamboo or Osage for a backing? Might want to trap. If I end up with less Osage it might cut down the mass weight and still have a great backing. Just trying stuff. Arvin
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Well just read unibond sets in 10 min at 90* so I better weight till in the morning.it might be 80.By then . Arvin
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No power lam. Simple composite. What’s more heavy bamboo or Osage for a backing? Might want to trap. If I end up with less Osage it might cut down the mass weight and still have a great backing. Just trying stuff. Arvin
Gotcha :)
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I don't think that adding the 16-18" power lam would make it a complex composite...it's just a small piece to stiffen the riser/grip area... If you glue what you have it might not bend after drying. LOL
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Bob that’s going to happen in the tiller if I do my job right. Painters tape keeps all that glue I will have smeared everywhere off the back. I hate glue and paint. Avin
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We had a bit of a discussion about how long a power lam had to be to bump you up a class. I don't think we ever got to an definitive answer but it was something like, if the "reinforcement" goes past the fades you go up to complex. At least that's what I got out of it. I think it was in "Flight Bows" somewhere.
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I went back and looked at that thread...and I'm wrong about the power lam. According to Alan "A “powerlam” or double wedge in the handle between the belly and backing layer risks reclassification as a Complex-Composite."
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Looking good Arvin. Anticipating the final result.
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We had a bit of a discussion about how long a power lam had to be to bump you up a class.
According to Alan "A “powerlam” or double wedge in the handle between the belly and backing layer risks reclassification as a Complex-Composite."
I'm not a flight shooter, so this may be a dumb question. If a powerlam will cause a reclassification can you simply put the same taper on the belly lam as what adding a powerlam would give you and avoid the whole problem?
Mark
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We had a bit of a discussion about how long a power lam had to be to bump you up a class.
According to Alan "A “powerlam” or double wedge in the handle between the belly and backing layer risks reclassification as a Complex-Composite."
I'm not a flight shooter, so this may be a dumb question. If a powerlam will cause a reclassification can you simply put the same taper on the belly lam as what adding a powerlam would give you and avoid the whole problem?
Yes that’s what I’m thinking. Just make the fade longer.. Arvin
Mark
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Boo is glued to the SELFBOW! >:D
Arvin
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Ok question for the guys with trapping experience. Do we trap the back then tiller or as we go. I think on this pyramid trap then tiller. Ok next question. Would 10% of limb width be about right for bamboo to Osage ratio. This is where you smart guys trump me for sure. Arvin
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1 a good caul
2 a good heat gun
3 a good stave
4 ryobi 4x36
5 scrapers I f needed
6 which is supposed come first . Asking for Gods help!
It was easier with the horn because it’s more flexible. That being said I think I can. I think I can. I think I can. ;D
Arvin
haha fantastic! do you prep your own boo as well?
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I'll say like the others. Your Bamboo thickness will give you a very heavy bow. Trapping won't help with that. All that will do is weaken the backing
Bamboo is heavier than Osage
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When I bamboo back a bow, I have backed about 50 so far, I make every edge of the bamboo stem to stern 1/16" thick, this naturally tapers the bamboo to the tips.
If you make your bamboo very thin you end up with bamboo backed osage bow. If you leave your bamboo thick you will end up with an osage belly bamboo bow with very little osage on the belly at normal poundages.
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Well I do have a heavy war bow. But I have a guy that can pull 100-120#. Marc is the ryne of the boo heaver than the core. My thinking was the boo would override the Osage and it did that’s why I was going to trap the boo and lighten the bow. This thing may end up 1” wide at the fades too. The back did glue up nicely. Arvin
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Pic
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I did have to small areas that glue did not fill out on the edges . Not bad maybe 1/8” deep. Looks like narrowing the bow will eliminate that. Arvin
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The boo was prepped on the 4x36 ryobi. Some scraping for sure. I will go out on a limb here. This bow will break a record in some weight class in simple composite broadhead. Arvin
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Ok question for the guys with trapping experience. Do we trap the back then tiller or as we go. I think on this pyramid trap then tiller. Ok next question. Would 10% of limb width be about right for bamboo to Osage ratio. This is where you smart guys trump me for sure. Arvin
I've trapped the last 3 bows. I did about 1/8" on each side. Don't know if it did anything for speed. Sometimes you just have to do these things blindly and hope. I kinda like the look though :)
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We had a bit of a discussion about how long a power lam had to be to bump you up a class.
According to Alan "A “powerlam” or double wedge in the handle between the belly and backing layer risks reclassification as a Complex-Composite."
I'm not a flight shooter, so this may be a dumb question. If a powerlam will cause a reclassification can you simply put the same taper on the belly lam as what adding a powerlam would give you and avoid the whole problem?
Mark
I can't see why there would be any difference. Thickness is thickness unless glue has some magic quality I haven't figured yet. I have just left the boo thicker in lieu of a power lam. It seemed to work.
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Ok question for the guys with trapping experience. Do we trap the back then tiller or as we go. I think on this pyramid trap then tiller. Ok next question. Would 10% of limb width be about right for bamboo to Osage ratio. This is where you smart guys trump me for sure. Arvin
1) Trap, then tiller.
2) If you want a more precise answer, PM me with your limb dimensions and I will crunch some numbers to try and get you into a more accurate ball park on how much to trap.
Your Bamboo thickness will give you a very heavy bow. Trapping won't help with that. All that will do is weaken the backing
Trapping will certainly reduce the weight since it lowers the limb stiffness. It may not reduce the weight enough to make the bow manageable, though.
I can't see why there would be any difference. Thickness is thickness unless glue has some magic quality I haven't figured yet. I have just left the boo thicker in lieu of a power lam. It seemed to work.
I wasn't asking if it would work the same, because it will (as you note). I was asking if using a tapered belly lam avoids the problem with the rules.
Mark
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DC I do know bamboo is very strong !!!!! I was just wondering if you guys have figured out a formula for boo - Osage in tension using a average Density for comparison . Alan where are you. Y’all might not even know what I am trying to say. Not the best at explaining what I am thinking. :-\Arvin
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I wasn't asking if it would work the same, because it will (as you note). I was asking if using a tapered belly lam avoids the problem with the rules.
Mark
I think the rules say a backed bow is one lamination(the back). Any more(a power lam or third lam)bumps it up to complex. The subject came up because I had put a short lam across the handle to reinforce the splice and it was thought that might bump it up.
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DC I do know bamboo is very strong !!!!! I was just wondering if you guys have figured out a formula for boo - Osage in tension using a average Density for comparison . Alan where are you. Y’all might not even know what I am trying to say. Not the best at explaining what I am thinking. :-\Arvin
I'm pretty sure I understand what you're doing. I'm also pretty sure that the density of boo drops as you move from outside to inside. How much I don't know. I've thought about doing the same thing you are but I wasn't using a dense belly wood so I never acted on it. I'm thinking that Yew is lighter than any part of the boo. I'm making a boo backed Ocean Spray at the moment. This may be the combo that could use thick boo because OS is heavier than Bamboo. I had no idea how much OS to use so I just went with thin boo this time to see how it works.
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Ok DC here it is glued up setting on the caul. Now how good of a bow tiller am I?????
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Here it will t is on my previous caul.
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THIS was the year I could afford to go to this event, doing everything on the cheap like camping out of my vehicle, eating out of a cooler, and not playing the fool in the casinos....and along came Covid-19. I am in a higher risk category and I kinda have to be kinda careful.
Lemme just wish you luck from here.
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If you have a warbow shooting friend...get out the boat winch and put a string on it... LOL I could only venture to guess at how heavy that bow is right now but I'd say way more than anyone could ever draw. Bamboo backing PLUS the power the glue line creates is like a modern bow with natural materials...and hard to beat. :OK
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Ok DC here it is glued up setting on the caul. Now how good of a bow tiller am I?????
It looks good. Now find a big piece of paper and make a tracing of the outline. Before you pull on it! :D
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When I bamboo back a bow, I have backed about 50 so far, I make every edge of the bamboo stem to stern 1/16" thick, this naturally tapers the bamboo to the tips.
If you make your bamboo very thin you end up with bamboo backed osage bow. If you leave your bamboo thick you will end up with an osage belly bamboo bow with very little osage on the belly at normal poundages.
Eric,
If your boo gets naturally tapered when you do the 1/16" everywhere method, then I assume you are using a smaller diameter diameter boo that what I see in Arvins pics? In which case the high crown serves as a trapping?
Having a flatter back would, in theory, reduce the the likelihood of a tension break in a highly strained bow. Arvin can proportion the back width to the belly width as he chooses to balance the materiel properties.
If you have a warbow shooting friend...get out the boat winch and put a string on it... LOL I could only venture to guess at how heavy that bow is right now but I'd say way more than anyone could ever draw. Bamboo backing PLUS the power the glue line creates is like a modern bow with natural materials...and hard to beat. :OK
Bob,
I think Arvin intends to tiller the belly until he reaches his weight goal for the class? If his osage gets less than 1/3 the limb thickness, he can always tiller the width if he is concerned?
Not sure about the "power the glue line creates" with this bow. Do you do a perry reflex on boo backed glue ups?
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Bob,
I think Arvin intends to tiller the belly until he reaches his weight goal for the class? If his osage gets less than 1/3 the limb thickness, he can always tiller the width if he is concerned?
Not sure about the "power the glue line creates" with this bow. Do you do a perry reflex on boo backed glue ups?
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I have been gluing bamboo backing on osage for a very long time, and the sum of the 2 is way more than a single piece of the same thickness. I have just figured the glue added that extra... no...I don't do a Perry reflex.
I know Arvin well enough to know he has plans and will make it work, but some of us were just trying to share our experience doing what we have done many times before since it's a first for him. He shoots the 50# class mostly I think...
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Hey guys I have made 4 boo backed bows!!! I don’t know what I’m doing. Keep the info coming. I made a bamboo backed , bamboo core and gemsbok horn belly bow shooting for 50# it came out about 108 @29. Great bow but not for me. Tried again managed to get a fifty pounder but it was narrow. Had good cast then I found out some one shot 259. Mine might hit 250 on a good day. Arvin
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So it’s bad to have the Osage less than one third the thickness of the limb. More set or what? Arvin
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I'm thinking that all we care about in a backing is tensile strength. Correct me if I'm wrong. I was looking at the Wood Database and it doesn't give tensile strength. Is one of those things listed there equivalent? Oh, if we only had an engineer ;) ;)
I have been gluing bamboo backing on osage for a very long time, and the sum of the 2 is way more than a single piece of the same thickness. I have just figured the glue added that extra... no...I don't do a Perry reflex.
What I'm thinking is that the boo has a higher tensile strength than the Osage and that's where the extra grunt comes from. I can't see it being a glue line but who knows. Maybe an engineer ;) ;)
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I'm thinking that all we care about in a backing is tensile strength. Correct me if I'm wrong. I was looking at the Wood Database and it doesn't give tensile strength. Is one of those things listed there equivalent? Oh, if we only had an engineer ;) ;)
I have been gluing bamboo backing on osage for a very long time, and the sum of the 2 is way more than a single piece of the same thickness. I have just figured the glue added that extra... no...I don't do a Perry reflex.
What I'm thinking is that the boo has a higher tensile strength than the Osage and that's where the extra grunt comes from. I can't see it being a glue line but who knows. Maybe an engineer ;) ;)
could well be the boo but if I glue two wood lams together with a little reflex, they become several times stronger than the original wood it seems...?
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That could be the reflex. I was searching for info on gluelam vs wood beams and there was a few comments that it was because the gluelams are arched. I dunno, I'm way out of my depth here.
A while back I cut the back off an OS stave, reflexed it and glued it back together. It held the reflex way better than a heat treated stave. But, the final dimensions were not a lot different than a straight bow of the same DW. It doesn't take much difference though.
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I have been gluing bamboo backing on osage for a very long time, and the sum of the 2 is way more than a single piece of the same thickness.
Have you measured the difference? Much of the data I have seen indicates that bamboo and osage are similar in terms of the modulus of elasticity (MOE), so the combination shouldn't be much different than either on its own at the same thickness as the lam bow. If one is much stiffer than the other (higher MOE) then the combination would feel much stiffer.
I'm thinking that all we care about in a backing is tensile strength. Correct me if I'm wrong. I was looking at the Wood Database and it doesn't give tensile strength. Is one of those things listed there equivalent? Oh, if we only had an engineer ;) ;)
If only, huh? ;)
The wood database calls the tensile strength the Modulus of Rupture. It shows an MOR of 11,020-24,450psi for bamboo and an MOR of 18,650psi for osage. That number is a fair bit lower than other data I have seen for osage, though. MOE for bamboo is 2,610,000-2,900,000psi and 1,689,000psi for osage. Again, that is low compared to other data I have seen on osage. If it is accurate, then bamboo would really stiffen up osage in a lam bow.
could well be the boo but if I glue two wood lams together with a little reflex, they become several times stronger than the original wood it seems...?
That could be the reflex. I was searching for info on gluelam vs wood beams and there was a few comments that it was because the gluelams are arched.
My experience with reflex is limited, but so far I would agree that reflex seems to really stiffen up the limbs out of proportion to the change made/added.
Mark
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Ok got y’all thinking.
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So it’s bad to have the Osage less than one third the thickness of the limb. More set or what? Arvin
More set if the bamboo and osage differ significantly in their stiffness. I do not see any reason not to feel comfortable with 1/2 and 1/2 in thickness before thinking ahead to different tillering options. Side tillering may be an option if it's not in an area of the limb that might want to twist on account of the tips being further back.
How thick is the bamboo just before the hook compared to the thickness of your self bows with the shorter hooks (measured in the same place)
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When you get it figured out . See how this trap stands with your thinking. 1-1/2 at fades is the width=
1-1/16 at the top of the trap. Mid limb 1/1/16 wide top of trap7/8. Tips 3/8 wide 1/4” top of trap. Does thickness matter? This is as perfect diminishing mass as I can think of. If you pros do . Do we get the tips bending first on the tiller? Arvin
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Pic
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DC, You are allowed to build up the handle on a simple composite bow, this would include a power lamb as long as it doesn't go past the fades or exceed 12" length I think. I need to double check on the length.
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Ok trapped for now. It will bend like a hundred pounder now. ;D the pic is pretty good representation of the limb and the bamboo thickness. So I could take the Osage to about 3-1/6 and that would put the two materials pretty close on compression and tension. Arvin
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Pic
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When you get it figured out . See how this trap stands with your thinking. 1-1/2 at fades is the width=
1-1/16 at the top of the trap. Mid limb 1/1/16 wide top of trap7/8. Tips 3/8 wide 1/4” top of trap. Does thickness matter? This is as perfect diminishing mass as I can think of. If you pros do . Do we get the tips bending first on the tiller? Arvin
You should be trapping as a percentage of width and thickness, not random amounts. Say, reduce the back width to 80% of the full width and then taper down maybe 70% of the side depth. Don't trap to a sharp edge on the belly, make sure you leave at least a bit of a flat on the side. To get a consistent back width, measure every 2" along the limb and mark the reduced width you want on the back and mark how far down the side you are going to go. Then connect all those dots with a line and rasp up to that line.
This keeps the trapped proportions the same full length of the limb and doesn't result in stronger and weaker areas. Being consistent with the trapped cross section will make your life easier when tillering.
Mark
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Thanks Marc!!! I will read this probably 10 times before I make another stroke. Tip overlays going on.
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Pic at fades thickness.
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Ok Steve what should this bow s draw weight be. 67”,9” handle. 1-1/2 at fades 3/8 tips you know the design. Thanks. Arvin
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Boo is glued to the SELFBOW! >:D
Arvin
Hey, we gadda move this thread now, he is CLEARLY breaking all the rules!!! >:D
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No power lam😁
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Narrow bamboo, I don't use it, I cut out the exact bow pattern out of my bamboo then thin and flatten the bamboo until the edges are 1/16", I use a belt sander with a 36 grit belt for the process.
As you can see my bamboo backing is thin, I cut the slats from 4-5" diameter culms that I harvest from a patch across town. It is mandrake, the rind always looks green even when it is completely dry. The bamboo is tan under the rind.
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I cut my slats from this, it is freshly cut.
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Eric how long do you season your bamboo? Just asking? Don’t know anything about it. My knowledge is call Jaap. ;). Here are pics of tip overlays. Also a pic of trap at mid limb.
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Pic
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Trap pic
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Ok way to hot to tiller so may start that in the morning. The tips and back are about ready for finish except at handle.
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One more pic for DC before it goes to the tiller tree.
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looking good
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Selfbowman your inbox is full ;)
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What’s in box??? Oh you mean my message box :-\📦. I didn’t know i was suppose to look there. People from cedar breaks? Probably some folks think I been ignoring them. That arrogant Texan. I just don’t know or care about all this technology. But I do y’all. I’ll look and try to figure out how to address it. Arvin
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After I cut the bamboo into 6' lengths I knock the internal nodes out with a hoe handle and let the bamboo dry until it turns tan. Letting it dry whole eliminates cupping and warping as it dries, with the nodes out you get a chimney effect and keep air moving through the trunk. if you don't knock out the nodes it will take months for the trunk to dry out, moisture will have to go out through the rind which is a very slow process.
After it turns tan I pop a chalk line on the trunk and run it through my bandsaw to reduce it to 2" wide slats. I use the bandsaw to remove as much of the belly as I can from each slat then give the slats a few passes through my jointer to reduce the belly to completely flat.
At this point I store it for future use.
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Got it to.brace. 45@23
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Some set happing .
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More off outter limbs and a tad at the fades??weighs 25oz . Probably 2-1/2 oz in handle to be removed. Got to have my tacky shelf. Arvin
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You guys wake up!!!
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After I cut the bamboo into 6' lengths I knock the internal nodes out with a hoe handle and let the bamboo dry until it turns tan. Letting it dry whole eliminates cupping and warping as it dries, with the nodes out you get a chimney effect and keep air moving through the trunk. if you don't knock out the nodes it will take months for the trunk to dry out, moisture will have to go out through the rind which is a very slow process.
After it turns tan I pop a chalk line on the trunk and run it through my bandsaw to reduce it to 2" wide slats. I use the bandsaw to remove as much of the belly as I can from each slat then give the slats a few passes through my jointer to reduce the belly to completely flat.
At this point I store it for future use.
Cool Eric thanks for sharing. If I only had bamboo growing somewhere. Arvin
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I like the braced pic. I've just about run out of boo and my supplier doesn't answer any phone or e-mail. Looks like I'm almost dead in the water. have to make selfbows for a while.
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Ok 50@28 and here is a pic of that nasty set. Arvin
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Oh mass about 18oz.now to shoot it.
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Oh how about that single growth ring on the belly? All good except for two little islands.
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You guys wake up!!!
if I get up too early, I have to run the heater to take the chill off.
doesn't look like it took much more set from brace to full draw. Going to shoot it much before the competition? how many bows are you taking this year?
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I’m taking 5or6 . Then there could be 2-3 of my bows be brought by others. Trying to shoot something every chance I get. Can’t learn if ya don’t try. Speaking from experience! Arvin
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How mush set did it take there Arvin?
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Don’t you look at the pictures? It’s laying on the caul 4 post up. That’s not set though that was calculated precisely so this bow would have deflex and reflex . So it would shoot arrows far. I have ocean front property in Montana also .>:D Arvin
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looks like it will be a well mannered hunting bow when shot in... I had a little more set than I wanted when I first started making BBOs. Then I started doing like Eric... flattening the bamboo, putting my pattern on it, cutting it to bow profile, and then sanding/thinning it to about 1/16". I then could glue it to the osage slat and use it as the pattern for cutting out my osage as well. Good job on yours though...I'd hunt with it... :OK
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Bob we need to build some bows together. Arvin
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it would be fun...but you work way faster than I do... :BB
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All finished except strike plate and rug. Thanks for the interest. Arvin
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Pic
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it's a nice back profile...looking forward to hearing your thoughts after shooting it in...and seeing your crony numbers.
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I haven’t shot it yet but except in a target Maybe 10 shots . To hot. Shoot it and the flats and we’ll see what it has.
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Don’t you look at the pictures? It’s laying on the caul 4 post up. That’s not set though that was calculated precisely so this bow would have deflex and reflex . So it would shoot arrows far. I have ocean front property in Montana also .>:D Arvin
The way they talk about global warming, who knows, ocean front property in Montana may not be a bad prospect.
Any idea how many inches set it took my calibrated eye aint what it used to be.
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That’s a great looking BBO. Thanks for posting the pics and showing us how you do it. Very helpful!
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Sleek it was 3-1:2 off the wall at handle off the caul. Now probably have that. Well see if it’s enough to shoot 235 or so. The good thing I think is it weighed in at 18 oz. Arvin
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Wishing you nothing but good luck and long flights, brother!
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Thanks for showing your work! Enjoyed following along with the build. Good luck with your flight shoot.
Mike
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Nice bow :)
I'd have gone with a little more bend out of the fades.
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Thanks guys it was a fun build . Arvin
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thank you Arvin. :OK
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What ratio of Bamboo to Osage did you wind up with
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Very cool Arvin. Wish you the best of luck at the Flats!
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What ratio of Bamboo to Osage did you wind up with
Marc I’m going to say45-55 to 40-60 . The lower numbers being bamboo. I think with this design and these materials this would have made a better bow with less set at 40-45#. That would have gotten the materials more even . That is one thing about flight shooting and building bows for flight. Trying to hit those weights with unpredictable materials. I have heard it on here that the bow will be what it has if tillered right. So if a bow starts taking set early on the wood does not have that draw weight in it. Compromise and make less draw weight bow. Hope your able to understand my thoughts . Please respond if you are or aren’t in agreement. Arvin
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Well that's not too bad. Usually the ratio is more like 20/80. Who knows, maybe with those ratios there will be better performance, I tend to think not but you never know.
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Marc I only built a hand full of bamboo backed bows . So much to learn!!
Arvin
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that's the only way you'll ever know what works best for you and the intended purpose. I agree with Marc about 20-25% bamboo maximum for a BBO... "Less is more"
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Ok guys I could not wait. Shot two 454 gr bamboo broadhead arrows one 245yds and one 240 yds. That was with D97 . Pretty sure I’ll get 240 yds with linen at the flats with it. We’ll see. Better than I thought. I think the 18 oz had a good bit to do with it. Arvin
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Shot two 454 gr bamboo broadhead arrows one 245yds and one 240 yds.
Very Nice, but doesn't that make the waiting even harder?
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Ummm no.
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Ok I shot 2 arrows at the house elevation 780’. 240yds and 245yds. Next I shot 1 arrow in Co . At 7500’ elevation. 252yds I was standing about 60 ‘ above landing field when I shot it. Bonneville is 4200 elevation. How far will it shoot there?? ??
Arvin
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hhhmmmmm...you sound either excited or disappointed...so I'll say either 235 or 255... :) either way it's a great shot. :OK
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Would it be leagal to have a just for fun pot- bragging rights on the flight distance of this bow. Mine doesn’t count but if it did 247yds. Arvin
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mathematically you would be correct... :) actually it might be 248... (SH)
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Ok bob your number is 248? We have a start.
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:OK 248