Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: adb on February 07, 2014, 12:06:18 pm
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Started a static recurve a few days ago. In my typical 'gotta make it a laminate' mindset, that's exactly what I've done.
Hickory backed ipe, bulbous handle. Hicory static tips. 62" tip to tip. 5" grip, with 6" laminate in the riser.
I did the statis tips like big tip overlays. Made them with a 5" gluing surface, tapered to a knife's edge, and then the hickory backing over top for 4", again tapering down to a fine edge on the back. I'm thrilled with the glue lines and transition glue lines. Better than I had hoped.
Got it profiled and belly tapered a bit, just have to refine the tips a bit more. I need to think about reducing mass without making them weak before I start tillering. Any suggestions, anyone who has done this?
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Narrower is always better than thinner for tips in my opinion. Pics my friend! Pics!
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Some more pics of the glue lines and transition glue lines. First one is looking at the backing, where the hickory tapers into the static tip. Second one from the side, where the tip and backing transitions come together. If you look close, you can see the transitions.
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PEARLIE... you're too quick! Now there's pics.
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Interesting!
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Adam Im cooking up the exact same thing, except Im using a kerf cut to get my recurves. Nice glue work man.
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What did you use for glue?
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ive got one in the works like that except its a bendy handle
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Yup... this is definitely outside the box for me!
OK, Chris... refined the tip thickness some more... in the above pics, the tips are3/4" wide. I now have them down to 5/8". I'm paying very close attention to my tip alignment as I'm reducing width. I think this will be important to avoid this thing from rolling over when I get a string on it.
For those of you doing static recurves, what do you think about my basic design? Will it hold up? Do the tips have enough strength? I have 5" of glue surface on the belly side, and 4" of glue surface on the backing. My glue lines are good, so that feels OK. I'm only looking for 45#@26", so not overly stressed. I know this is a highly stressed design, but will mine hold up?
Also, I need to do some sort of tips. I'm thinking pin nocks, with an overlay. I know I need to cut some deep string grooves on the back of the static tip. Should I do that now, or will that limit me later in terms of string alignment? Can I start to tiller without them?
OK... progress updates as it comes.
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What did you use for glue?
TB3. It's done everything I've ever asked of it, if I do my part correctly.
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I was trying to do this sort of splice, but I just couldn't pull it off. I couldn't get the inside splice lines smooth enough to make a strong glue joint. Plus, with my design, I don't have to add a belly underlay. I can just tiller away as usual, and it won't weaken the joint.
I'm not sure who's glue up this is (PatM, maybe?), and I hope you don't mind me using it. O:) If you'd like to offer your wisdom on how you did this, I'm all ears.
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What did you use for glue?
TB3. It's done everything I've ever asked of it, if I do my part correctly.
Glad to hear it. Im using the same. Its never once failed me in anyway.
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Me neither. Why not this?
What do you think about this tip design? Strong enough? I have 22" of working limb, to get 45#@26". That leaves about 4-5" on non-bending tip on each limb, and 6" of non-bending grip.
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Twist will be critical, but I see no reason yours wont hold up just fine. You have the grain running the right way on your tip and with the back over that glue line I cant see how it can come apart.
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Good to hear... that's what I'm hoping!
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That V-splice looks like a PatM glue up to me! :). I've been thinking about trying a spliced lam recurve. Good to know there are multiple glue up options.
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I use Urac for statics and glueups.
I also like using tip wedges and underlays to prevent the curve from pulling out.
These aren't as drastic as yours tho.
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/IMG_0700.jpg) (http://s179.photobucket.com/user/Easternarcher/media/IMG_0700.jpg.html)
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Yeah, that is mine. don't mind at all. I added an underlay to hide the v-splice. Not sure why you would have trouble with that type of splice. You seem to have access to far more precision equipment than I have.
I think it is best to have the backing go right to the tip rather than feathering out on the curve. You want to support that grain on the tips. It looks like it should have run more in the direction of the angle rather than across it.
I'll link to some pics on PP that show a similar joint to the one you made except the tip is tapered to an edge that the loop straddles rather than resting in a groove. I think that's a lighter tip solution.
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/reply/256834/NorthEurasian-laminated-bow#reply-256834
Here's a close up of the tip with the underlay: Keep in mind my spliced in tips are steam bent so the wood is curved rather than just cut to shape.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/013.jpg)
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Thanks, PatM. Thought that was yours. So, are you going to answer the question? How did you get the inside surfaces of the V splice smooth enough for glue up? ???
Interesting write up on PP. Shows there's more than one way to skin a cat. I wondered about running the backing right up to the tip, but I thought it would be unnecessary.
Anyway... some progress. Roughed in some pin nocks, cut some shallow string grooves on the back of the static tips, and narrowed the tips down further to 1/2". I'm still debating whether I should reduce the tip thickness... I can always do that at the end without effecting tiller. I put it up on the tiller tree to have a look. Bending nicely, but not a bunch, but I safely pulled it to 45# (target weight), and it didn't fly apart. Phew. String alignment is bang on... no twist. Yah!
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You will know if the tips needs reduction after the first full draw shot. It'll be smooth or chatter your teeth! Id guess you can take some depth off them.
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I just cut the V with a very fine toothed Japanese saw and then made the tapered point fine-tuned to fit. I did get a very nice fit but you can make a pretty sloppy joint and use epoxy as a gap filler and hide it under the backing and underlay.
Shoot the bow for a while with the chunky tips and then reduce the width if it looks like the string is reliably hitting the groove.
If you had run your backing strip right to the end you can really trap the tips to the back considerably and leave the belly side a hair wider.
I would be most concerned that the tips could just split right off at mid curve myself.
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You will know if the tips needs reduction after the first full draw shot. It'll be smooth or chatter your teeth! Id guess you can take some depth off them.
Yah... that's what I was thinkin'. It'll be a fun game reducing tip mass and not weakening them. As it stands, I think these tips would probably loosen your fillings!
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I just cut the V with a very fine toothed Japanese saw and then made the tapered point fine-tuned to fit. I did get a very nice fit but you can make a pretty sloppy joint and use epoxy as a gap filler and hide it under the backing and underlay.
Shoot the bow for a while with the chunky tips and then reduce the width if it looks like the string is reliably hitting the groove.
If you had run your backing strip right to the end you can really trap the tips to the back considerably and leave the belly side a hair wider.
I would be most concerned that the tips could just split right off at mid curve myself.
Thanks, Pat. I never thought of a fine toothed hand saw. I was using my bandsaw. It's nice and quick, plenty accurate, but the final cut was too rough for a good strong glue joint IMHO. I even tried using my miter saw. It made a smooth cut, but wasn't good enough at the point of the V. I also made the mistake of profiling the tip taper first, instead of the belly wood taper. I realise now, you have to cut the inside V of the splice on the belly wood first, and then fit and shape the outside tip splice to that. Live and learn. ::)
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I don't know. I've made some pretty chunky Grumley style tips and I was pretty happy with the feel of the shot despite the added weight.
Still, you can just keep filing and scraping on them until you lose your nerve and call it quits. The Grumley I made had chunky tips and I then reduced the sides to allow the loop to pass on either side and left a bridge/brush nock. Unfortunately never got to test the difference as the bow died in a 'floor tillering" accident.
Here's a pic of the tip of the ill-fated bow on the left.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/shattoeshwiggity2004.jpg)
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Beautiful tips.
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Wow adb that's looking nice, can wait to see that one bending.
DBar
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I can't answer any questions, but that's looking pretty sweet Adam!
I was kinda thinking the same as Pat. If they break, it will likely be along a growth ring around mid-curve (assuming I'm seeing the grain correctly).
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Thanks, Cam! How's that big elm warbow comin'?
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Haven't touched it since heat treating/tip alignment last weekend. Going to start at it again tomorrow.
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Any updates?
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Not yet. Watched some of the Olympics this morning, and I had to do some reloading. I'm going elk hunting next week, and I only have a few rounds for my 300WM. Plus, it's supposed to be cold, so I gotta get my gear together. I haven't been hunting since deer season last November.
I should be able to get out in the shop this aft.
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That is looking pretty sweet. cant wait to see it bending.
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Just got in from the shop. Update? You want an update? How's this for an update.
I'm choked.
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That's why I went to single growth ring ash backings for statics. Too bad it didn't make it at that weight though.
You can always remove the backing and try again.
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what a shame that was on its way to being a great bow.
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No... it split down into the ipe as well. No grain run off there. The hickory just failed. This happened while I was bracing it. It was going great. I had it to a low brace of 4". Bending nice. One limb was just a bit behind. No biggie.
I was really struggling to get it braced. I had just got it there, and I heard a 'tick.' I honestly thought it was the string falling into the nock groove.
I guess that answers my question about the tip design. The backing failed before the tip, so I'm good to go on that front. I can say, I have never had a backing failure like this with hickory before, and I can't blame it on a grain run off.
I'm choked. I can't believe it. Feels like someone just punched me in the guts. This design is making me crazy. Shaking my confidence for sure, never mind burning through material and my time. I can't believe it.
Oh well, I'm not giving up. Back to square one.
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That sucks bro!grain looks great,maybe bad hickory?doesn't make sense!
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Couldn't quite see the whole picture as far as how deep the split went.
You HAVE to persist with this design. It'll become a favorite.
Do you have any bamboo for backing?
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What is that saying you always tell me? If you ain't breakin...
It sucks even more when the autopsy doesn't really shed any light on it's death.
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What is that saying you always tell me? If you ain't breakin...
It sucks even more when the autopsy doesn't really shed any light on it's death.
Don't worry buddy... I'm not giving up. Most of my friends (including my wife) don't refer to me as a stubborn bastard for nuthin'!!
Yah, yah... if you ain't breakin', you ain't makin'.
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Couldn't quite see the whole picture as far as how deep the split went.
You HAVE to persist with this design. It'll become a favorite.
Do you have any bamboo for backing?
Thanks, Pat. I'm definitely making another.
I haven't used bamboo for years. Too unpredictable. Too many unexplained failures on far less stressed designs than this. Too dry here for bamboo as well.
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I had a flat sawn Hickory backing on Osage core literally explode on me a few years ago at full draw, the bow was a year old and well broken in. I sort of lost my confidence in Hickory that day.
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I had a flat sawn Hickory backing on Osage core literally explode on me a few years ago at full draw, the bow was a year old and well broken in. I sort of lost my confidence in Hickory that day.
Yup... I'm walking away from it for this build.
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Probably got a good maple backer in the shop, that's what I'd use
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:P
Probably got a good maple backer in the shop, that's what I'd use
:laugh: :laugh: That's what I'm thinkin'!!
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Dang, I'm sorry to see that. I've had enough laminated bows fail on me to know how you are feeling.
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I just saw this for the first time quickly went through each page and....oh man. That sucks. Sorry to see that. I know that feeling all too well. ??? >:( :( :-\ :-[ :'(
Was look'n really sweet. Can't wait to see your next one! I always look forward to seeing your bows.
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Do you have access to backing material that will give you a growth ring as a back?
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Do you have access to backing material that will give you a growth ring as a back?
In addition to the Hickory backed Osage that had a single growth ring backing that I mentioned above I have had White Ash single growth rings backings fail in a similar manner. I've never had a quarter sawn White Ash backing fail like that although I have had Hickory fail, again explosively.
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Bummer Adam.......stupid boards anyway...;)
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Sorry man that thin was fixin to be awesome.
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Do you have access to backing material that will give you a growth ring as a back?
In addition to the Hickory backed Osage that had a single growth ring backing that I mentioned above I have had White Ash single growth rings backings fail in a similar manner. I've never had a quarter sawn White Ash backing fail like that although I have had Hickory fail, again explosively.
I have some great 1/4 sawn ash backing strips. Come to think of it, I've never had ash fail either. Guess it'll be ash for the next build.
I'm very disappointed with the hickory. I always thought it was the toughest backing material, and that's why I used it for this highly stressed design.
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I used Yellow Birch a couple of times for backings and even though the stave I was ripping strips from had a bit of twist at one end I was extremely impressed by it's strength and resilience. If I could find a tree that had straight growth throughout I think I would switch that
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I think part of the problem with Hickory is that people don't know what type of Hickory they are actually getting.
The Bitternut variety is quite brittle and it often seems to be the type actually in lumber form.
Many times I have seen a stack of Hickory that is labelled Shagbark and the few pieces with a chunk of bark remaining on them have all clearly been Bitternut.
The bend test of pieces of it actually fare very poorly and break readily.
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What's your opinion on white oak? I have one nice piece of 1/4 sawn WO. I've only used it once, and it seemed good.
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Bummer Adam.......stupid boards anyway...;)
Stupid board bows. Who makes stupid board bows anyway. ::) I hate board bows.
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Never had a chance to try it but many people seem to give it great reviews.
I don't have the tools to actually cut backing strips so the few times I have made backed bows have been with worked down staves to a few growth rings using a hatchet and rasp etc. or with Maple strips that I can buy in the right dimensions from a specialty wood store.
I did get access to a bandsaw that a friend has to cut a hickory strip for my Grumley replica.
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We have piles of skids around work that are from white ash. Its easy to find any cut you want. Problem is they are all 32" long. Otherwise Id grab some up and send them your way.
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We have piles of skids around work that are from white ash. Its easy to find any cut you want. Problem is they are all 32" long. Otherwise Id grab some up and send them your way.
Don't worry brother, I have lots of ash backings already cut and sanded for backings! 7' long.
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I have used white oak for backers a lot, never had a fail
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This style of bow definitely has the potential to humble you even after your basic skills are at a high level. Probably the reason so few make them a specialty.
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I was reading along, waiting to get to the end of the thread so I could post how the bow looked kinda like two hockey sticks spliced together....now we just gotta say H and E before the double hockey sticks.
That was a kick in the guts, seeing that nasty splinter lift like that. I was looking forward to the outcome. Sorry, brother.
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I know that feeling but for me its usually a crysal.
Commiserations.
Luckily you are a bowyer and used to failure so its easier to move on. >:D
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Sometimes in this game you get bucked off. Hard. You can either lay there and bleed, or cowboy-up and get back on.
I went back out in the shop today and started over. I got some more static tips cut out and sanded, and I have an ash and a white oak backing strip ready to go. I haven't decided which one I'm going to use, and I probably won't until the last moment. I don't have a lot of experience with WO, but I've never had a failure with ash. Guess we'll see.
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Looking forward to seeing this one.
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Was the hickory too dry or maybe it wasnt dense enough there? Not sure what happened but maybe there is a good reason why this happened.
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Post some pics as you go again. I'd like to see the potential backing strips
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Know how ya feel....last year I had a sexy as hell tri lam that I was totally infatuated with let go on me on the last shoot in,n had almost a hundred arras thru it....normally that stuff doesn't bother me anymore....but when that one went I stood there in speechless shock,my grip turned too butter and the bow slipped out of my grip to the ground,and then my knees buckled n hit the ground with my head losing its support straight to hands over my face in the fetal position ....it sucked....at least yous went early on and not at the end of shoot in or just after lipstick was applied...those suck.
But its all part of the game we play as ya know......try again.
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I def wanna see the new one in the wings. It was looking sweet
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OK... round 2. I did another static glue up. Carbon copy of the one that broke, except I used white oak as the backing instead of hickory. I made the new glue up a bit more refined. 1.25" wide across the fades, instead of 1.5" on the broken stave. The tips are also much slimmer. I can't imagine they'll be too weak.
New glue up on left, old on right...
First tiller session. From floor tiller to 3" low brace. Looking for 45#@26", so nothing earth shattering. Left limb looks pretty good, right limb is stiff, especially mid limb. Pulling 35# right now.
Comments welcome.
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Very nice grain on those BOARDS. I see the same thing you do in the tiller.
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Not bad for first look on the tiller. Fingers crossed on this one. I'm more nervous tillering this bow than any I've done for a LONG time.
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I like the second installment better 8)
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U can use white oak as backing? I have some 100 yr old barn beams, old growth. Like 25-30 rings an inch
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Where you been Bruiser? White oak is a great backing.
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Not bad at all for first pull on the tiller. Looking sweet! Looks like you just gotta get some more bend in the outer limbs to get the bend less concentrated at the fades, and you'll have a bow. That sucks about the first one. I've had strings of bad luck to where I had like 5 or 6 failures in a row, just gotta keep on keepin on. Looking very nice either way, I always love your ipe bows!
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I'm going to be a downer and call for a blow up at the fades unless you can move the bend off that area. The radical scoop out of a bulbous handle can be a severe violation of fibers.
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Aw wtf, I gotta get intoy barn and dig up some oak. It's all 4"x3" so I should get a couple backings :laugh:
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Gonna have to put this on hold for a while. I cut the end of my right thumb bad yesterday. Not a happy boy at the moment. Really hurts.
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Shitty man, no thumb wrestling championship for u. Hope ya heal quick
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Gonna have to put this on hold for a while. I cut the end of my right thumb bad yesterday. Not a happy boy at the moment. Really hurts.
Pics, or it didn't happen >:D
That's crappy. What happened?
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WAIT! I thought you said something to the effect that you can lay there and bleed or you can cowboy up? Well, what is it gonna be?
On the other hand, why mess up the nice wood with bloodstains that don't come from deer??? Take your time, old chappie. We'll bide our time waiting for you to gnaw thru the stitches and get back to work. Feel better soon.
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Gonna have to put this on hold for a while. I cut the end of my right thumb bad yesterday. Not a happy boy at the moment. Really hurts.
Pics, or it didn't happen >:D
That's crappy. What happened?
My bandsaw bit me.
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Doesn't look like your handle extends past the fades. If so then that's not a good thing
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Doesn't look like your handle extends past the fades. If so then that's not a good thing
Please explain
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Gonna have to put this on hold for a while. I cut the end of my right thumb bad yesterday. Not a happy boy at the moment. Really hurts.
Pics, or it didn't happen >:D
That's crappy. What happened?
My bandsaw bit me.
Oooo, that looks kinda deep. Did it cut right down through the thumb nail? Ow. I did something similar before, I was feeding something against the fence and pushed it too far and it nipped my thumb.
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I was adjusting the bottom sealed bearing blade guides. I start the saw for just a sec so the blade is moving, but not on. Allows me to see that the guides are adjusted right, and close enough to the blade. Done it a thousand times, but obviously, I'll have to rethink this. Thank God the saw wasn't running. It's not really a cut... move like it tore a chunk outta the end of my thumb. F'ing hurts. First mishap in 10 years of bowmaking. Touch wood.
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I was adjusting the bottom sealed bearing blade guides. I start the saw for just a sec so the blade is moving, but not on. Allows me to see that the guides are adjusted right, and close enough to the blade. Done it a thousand times, but obviously, I'll have to rethink this. Thank God the saw wasn't running. It's not really a cut... move like it tore a chunk outta the end of my thumb. F'ing hurts. First mishap in 10 years of bowmaking. Touch wood.
Well I am glad that it was not a cut all the way through your thumb like it looks like! I hope it heals nice and fast.
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"F" word man, that looks like it hurts. Sorry it happened to ya.
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Not having the handle go past the fades means that it leaves that area susceptible to flexing and in danger of pulling a splinter on the backing right where it flares out, I've had that happen a couple times. The area where the handle flares out to the limbs is a sensitive spot and should be stiff enough to prevent any flexing, hence the need to extend the handle past that point.
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Thanks, Marc.
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My old man is one hell of a wood worker....but all it takes is that one time when you have a mental lapse. Hes lucky he still has all his fingers. I was there when he had a "run in" with his table saw. I dont have pics but you get the idea. I hope you heal quick...cant wait to see your static when its done. I like that medical super glue for cuts or scrapes on my finger. Yours isn't really at a joint but sometimes it works better then a bandaid. Good luck just the same!! :D
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Thumb seems to be healing up pretty good. Dead flap of skin was removed, and it's filling in pretty good. Doesn't hurt much anymore... just when I bump it... which I've done several times in the last few days. Probably hurt less getting kicked in the balls! Maybe not.
Doc says no skin grafting required. Yee hah.
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I'm going to be a downer and call for a blow up at the fades unless you can move the bend off that area. The radical scoop out of a bulbous handle can be a severe violation of fibers.
You called it Pat. Broke her at one of the fades. Too much cut out for the bulbous handle and as Marc said, no handle extended into the fades. You were both right. She didn't explode, but I clearly heard the dreaded 'tick' on the tiller tree. Had it tillered out to 40#@22". On closer inspection, she broke right into the fade at the side, likely starting from a grain run out at the bulbous handle.
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So, in the good Canadian tradition (aka Women's Olympic Hockey) of never giving up... on with round three. Good grief. Sorry, couldn't resist the dig about the hockey! Sorry, everyone... it's our game. Just sayin'. 8)
New glue up. Maple backed ipe this time (go with what you know!). No bulbous handle... straight grip. I made it 2" longer also, so it's 62" ntn this time. Hickory static tips, pin nocks roughed in.
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Haven't done any hand tillering on the belly yet, but here's the first look on the tiller tree with a 3" low brace. I would like some help with this one from the static masters out there please.
Pulling it gently to 30-35#. I'm looking for 45#@26".
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Looks like a lot of Grain run off on the tips. Or is that ok..?
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Looks to me like I need to leave the fades alone, and get the mid limb to tips working. Agreed?
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Looks like a lot of Grain run off on the tips. Or is that ok..?
Not worried... they'll be static and not bending.
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That's how I'd start adb
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yep, i'd stay away from the fades for now, you can always work back to them
and about that hockey thing, ouch!!
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Sorry, man... it's our game. What can I say? Did you watch the men's game? Canada kicks a$$ on the ice... big or small.
I did a couple of scraping/exercising sessions. Up to 4" low brace now, and pulling to 35#. I completely left the first 4" of each limb past the fades alone. Looking pretty good I think. Opinions?
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you want a little salt to rub that in?
yep looking good on this end
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I'd really like to finish tillering this today, but I have to stop now. My thumb is healing nicely, but it's too tender and sore to keep going. It really hurts when I'm bracing and unbracing. It's been a week today, and it's healing quicker than I thought, but it's saying no more. Further progress on the weekend perhaps. Thanks, guys!
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you want a little salt to rub that in?
yep looking good on this end
Hey, Bubbster... you'd be walkin' a wee bit taller and gloating just a smidge if you left us hung-dog on the ice in front of the whole world. We're proud to beat the Yanks cuz you're good. If you sucked, who (including us) would care? I think it's a really healthy rivalry that makes hockey a great game. The Canadian / American women seem to take it a bit far, but women fight dirty!
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you want a little salt to rub that in?
yep looking good on this end
let him have this one bubby, hockey is all canada really has. well that and free medical, and they need that for all the BBBBBUUURRRNNN!!!!
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you want a little salt to rub that in?
yep looking good on this end
Hey, Bubbster... you'd be walkin' a wee bit taller and gloating just a smidge if you left us hung-dog on the ice in front of the whole world. We're proud to beat the Yanks cuz you're good. If you sucked, who (including us) would care? I think it's a really healthy rivalry that makes hockey a great game. The Canadian / American women seem to take it a bit far, but women fight dirty!
your right there , would of been hi times to beat you at your own game, take care of that thumb, had similar and it will be tender for some time, bub
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you want a little salt to rub that in?
yep looking good on this end
let him have this one bubby, hockey is all canada really has. well that and free medical, and they need that for all the BBBBBUUURRRNNN!!!!
;D ;D ;D I don't think so, but you keep telling yourself that! Denial is not a river in Egypt.
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Well, I couldn't stop. I gave my thumb a wee rest, and bundled it up a bit better, and carried on. I had to see how this one turned out.
Here it is at full brace... 6.5", and pulling to 42#@24".
Bottom limb on the left. I think I'm diggin' it.
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Comments on tiller are welcome.
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Man that is coming along super nice ,Good on ya
Chuck
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I like it adb, if I get hiper picky may be a slight flat outer third on the right, but it may be a shadow, I don't think I would touch it though that is a nice bend, bub
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Put 4 doz arrows through it. Left it braced for about 2-3 hours to sweat a little. Freshly unbraced set looks minimal... maybe 1/2". I think I'll sand it out and FINALLY call it a bow.
I haven't had a bow give me fits like this for a long time. This one was definitely outside the box for me. Way outside the box. I was beginning to wonder if I would ever get this to work.
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The plan is to snake skin this puppy. So, when I get it all polished up, I'll do a final separate post. Tiller comments are still welcome, as I won't sand it out 'til tomorrow or Sunday.
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I like it. I also see vague hints of flat spots on that right limb but not enough to definitively pinpoint in an online picture.
Call it good and just refine the recurves as much as you dare.
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the more I look at it the more I like it, I think my eye gets drawn to that knot in the plywood backstop and was messing with me, I think you got a winner there
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I like it. I also see vague hints of flat spots on that right limb but not enough to definitively pinpoint in an online picture.
Call it good and just refine the recurves as much as you dare.
Thanks, Pat. I'm very relieved this one turned out. I think I would have given up had I broke this one. I guess third times the charmed.
I don't know if I'll refine the tips much more. I'm pretty reluctant to make them much smaller. It shoots pretty nice, with minimal hand shock, so I'm just going to round them off a bit and sand them out. The static tips are the same thickness as the distal part of the working limbs, so I don't think I'll go further. Plus, hickory is a bit lighter than ipe anyway.
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Just as a point of reference, here's mass weights:
Finished glue up, profiled and ready to start hand tillering: 620 grams
Mid way tillering, 40#@16": 580 grams.
Final weight, fully tillered, but grip not shaped: 556 grams
I'm guessing the final weight should come in around 540 grams or so. Badger? How does that stack up for finished mass? 62" NTN, 45#@26". 1 3/8" at the fades to 3/8" pin nocks. Maple backed ipe. 8" non-bending handle and riser.
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Id say its a bit flat mid way on the right. Dang close though.
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I think it looks awesome. I agree with the right being a little flat a tiny tiny bit. I don't know that I'd be very concerned about it though. Like others have said that is being uber critical.... but then again I hesitate to even comment on that since I consider my skills still "grasshopper" status to your master level abilities.
Can't wait to see it all finished up! YEAH!
PS -
My dad was a woodshop teacher for 30 years (back when they still had woodshop). His last year he lost the last digits of his pinky and ring fingers and the tip of his middle finger to a table saw. wasn't his fault he was adjusting the blade and some kid turned the saw on by accident. guess you could still argue it WAS his fault for not paying better attention but he had a good long run with out any incidents.
Glad your thumb is still attached my friend! I know that sucks. Probably more embarrassing than anything. I once sanded most of my finger nail off with a belt sander and took a lot of skin with it. Man that hurt!
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I've moved this thread to a new title: static laminate, with an updated in the hand full draw pic. Please refer to the new title, thanks!