Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: backtowood B2W on October 13, 2018, 06:05:42 am
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Hi guys!
This bow I finished in February, and I shot it several times.
I wanted to do a design like the Sudbury bow which is made of hickory and 65" ntn. Mine is maple - got the same width: 1,75" but is longer: 68" ntn.
The tribe which this bow belonged were named Wampanoag, so I named her.
The stave had some deflex about 1,5" it took set about another 1,5" and string follow is also about 1,5".
The bow has a wiggle in the fade, another wiggle in the outer mid-limb and some twist - all happening in the same limb.
I didn't correct anything just the twist i compensated with a sidenock.
The handle I wrapped with thin leather, and the back I painted with thinned carpenterglu mixed with pigments.
Final coating is resin dissolved in alcohol. First layer for the belly was with pigments too.
The tips got a thin cow horn reinforcement.
The all around arrow passes are just decoration as i figured out they don't protect any - arrow passes 1,25" above center.
Specs:
68" ntn
symmetric
43#@29"
10" - 3#
12" - 7# +4#
14" - 11# +4#
16" - 15# +4#
18" - 19# +4#
20" - 23# +4#
22" - 27# +4#
24" - 30# +3#
26" - 35# +5#
28" - 40# +5#
29" - 43# +3#
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nocks detail
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any good or bad? let me know ! thanks !
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two more
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I like it.Picture book perfect of a sudbury.
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Good looking bow and tiller. I've always been a fan of the Sudbury bow.
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I love it and some day I hope I'll be able to build a bow that sweet, but to me, the top limb looks like its not doing much for the first 6 inches out of the fade, may be the cause of the set???
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That is a good lookin bow,really like the grip.
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Thanks for commenting!
Stuckinthemood, for Sudbury there should not be too much bend in the fades. The lower fade got a wiggle in it and looks like bending. In fact both, there is not much bend in both fades.
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That's cool; I like it even more now!
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Cool. 8) Could you enlighten me a bit about the Sudbury design? I know I've heard and probably read about it, but I'm spacing on where and when it comes from.
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upstateenbowyer,
I can only repeat what I know from TBB 2 and 3. I can attach 2 pics but I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do so, as this pics belong to the Peabody-Museum.
This bow is dated to 1660 as it was taken from a killed native in Sudbury, Massachusetts.
The inner limbs are working almost nothing, handle and fades, in my case, are about 60 cm long.
So it's like a short bow with a long handle/fades. The handle is about 2.5cm wide and 3 cm deep
Draw weight something around 50#, they guess.
It is an efficient design for straight staves with almost no handschock.
The lower tip has some kind of double nock, which I don't know why this was made. Maybe to stiff up the lower limb a bit? Maybe someone has more to tell?!
Greets Martin !
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Love it, very nice bow.
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That's a very nice looking bow backtothewood. I'm expecting we'll be seeing more from you in the future.
Bjrogg
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Nice looking bow
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Upper li.b looks a little hingey
DBar
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It's got style! I love the flowing lines of the handle and the limb tips. A sleek beautiful bow.
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Awesome. Just like the way I think I make my Sudbury style bows, somewhat modernized; but much prettier and well done. Sure hope it shoots 170 FPS. My bows are around 160 FPS at best. Good luck.
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Upper li.b looks a little hingey
DBar
+1
I'm not sure about that long stiff areas at the fades. If you let bend it a little more (just to get no set), you can save a lot of bow length = less mass = more efficiency.
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Pretty bow and pretty pics! I don’t know much about the sudbury design but I would touch up that hinge in the top limb. The bottom limb is better but bends a little to much in one place for my liking as well. You can leave it but it will get worse if you shoot it a lot.
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Thank you for commenting !!
I don't know , about this design, that much either as it was my first try.
I have something similar on the go right now. There is more bending out of the fades...we will see!
Thank you guys again for commenting!!!
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Thank you guys!
I learned so much working on this bow again.
First, I started to work on the inner limb fades and handle (now the handle looks more like the original).
Then I cut of 2" of each tip and cut in nocks like the original (ok, they are upside-down ).
and tillered it again but to 28" (Since I shoot self bows my draw length shortened from 29" to 27,5")
I shoot her quite a lot during the last inches of tillering, and recognized more and more penetration of the arrows. ;). I also recognized that string follow almost decreased from 1,5" - 0,5", which also disappears after half an hour or so.
The current set of 1,5" (the stave was deflexed about 1.5") didn't disappear.
So should I heat treat the limbs and maybe, also bend them a little bit ??
she shoots so much better than before , groups thight at 20 meters and hits quite hard for a deflexed bow.
So thank you guys again, especially DBar, simsons and leonwood, for there critical look!
The pic shows a 27" draw.
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now I'd call this a killer tiller :OK
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Tiller looks a lot better my friend!
Just me, but if you are shooting good groups with it and you like it, I would leave well enough alone.
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Real good. Still I would push it a little more and heat treat the belly. I might even reflex the tips almost 2" with steam. As I see it, you can always make a new one like that if you ruin this one. ;)
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Very nice! I plan to make one with that design down the road. Have to sharpen my skills a bit, though!
Hawkdancer
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Thank you guys!
After looking at her in the morning, I gave her a few scrapes at the upper tip....
It was raining today so I didn't#t shoot her (R, still not sure about heat treat or not.
Martin
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I was out with her today and I am still very happy with her. Long distance shots about 40 m are manageable.
I was thinking about heat treat her but I'm not sure cause of the carpenter-glue paint job. Will the heat damage it?
I made her a little black one to dress her up. . She feels better now, ...always with the skinny ones, my ring finger and the pinky wanna go for teatime with the queen...
Sorry for the pic quality - but I hope you see what I've been up too. The leather is from a jacket right beside the zipper was, so it was already pre stitched and easy to sew together.
The cord should not go from end to end otherwise it will become to thick at the thumb area.
Next time I make one with velcro - than I can use it on other handles too.
Actually she weights 45#@28. I didn't take to much attention to the scale as she wasn't hanging there the last rounds...slowly, slowly I figure it out...
B2TW
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more
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1 fits all - cool (-S
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So clean!