Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: blindarcher on September 30, 2017, 08:49:41 pm
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Hi All,
I harvested about 13 shafts of Red Dogwood (Osier) a few months ago. I have stripped them of their bark and have hand straightened over the past few weeks. This is the first time I am making arrows from Red Dogwood and I do not know what to expect for what is a good diameter to reduce them to for use with a bow with draw weight of about 50#s. I guess I could experiment and measure the spine, but I would like to be within the ballpark before having to do so. So, I am looking for advice from other who have made arrows from Red Dogwood.
Cheers!
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11/32" on a 30" parallel shaft will get you 50#'s for sure if not more.Goood stuff!!!Best to let them season 6 months or at least 3 months anyway.I like to full length taper mine.5/16" to a fat 11/32".Grain weight will be 550 to 600 grains yet with a 125 grain field tip point on a parallel shaft.A little less full length tapered.
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Thanks for your quick reply BowEd. Dopey me, I just saw your previous posting which is quite comprehensive.
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I think you need to do it with your spine tester. every shaft will be a little different. If you want to match spine, you can't just go with diameter alone, I think.
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My hardwood shoot arrows are about 3/8" at the point and 5/16" at the nock for a 30" arrow. The spine can be adjusted by lightly sanding in the mid section.
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11/32" on a 30" parallel shaft will get you 50#'s for sure if not more.Goood stuff!!!Best to let them season 6 months or at least 3 months anyway.I like to full length taper mine.5/16" to a fat 11/32".Grain weight will be 550 to 600 grains yet with a 125 grain field tip point on a parallel shaft.A little less full length tapered.
Basically I sand them of course individually to the spine I want using my homemade spiner.Grain weighing them also along the way of the process.What they end up to they end up to.I let the spine tell me,but usually as a general rule what I stated.To get 12 shafts within 20 to 30 grains of each other is rare for me but does happen.Dog wood is a very elastic dense type wood and for that reason they are tougher then timber split shafts that I've used like DF/spruce/and POC which seem a little more brittle but they stay straight nicer....lol..The main concern I always have with dogwoods is that they hold their straightness more so then making spine or weight etc.That I've found out takes time seasoning.
To take them down to 45# spine will give you a nice narrower shaft yet too if your using B50 string.If your using a FF string I've found the spine needs to be 5#'s stiffer.
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I noticed a big difference in the spine between the stiff side and the weak side, sometimes 40# or more. Is the finish spine weight the stiff side number or the average? I would think taking down just the stiff side would weaken the arrow and change the roundness.
To jump ahead in the process, I recommend the bare shaft testing be done one arrow at a time. Trust me, it is easier on the shafts, especially if you get a tight group! >:D
Hawkdancer
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To be totally honest I have never had a spine difference from one side to the other of 40#'s.Some 5 to 10 pounds at the most.Then the stiffer side goes against the bow.A full length taper can make that more forgiving yet too.Wiggles in a shaft can give some crazy readings but wiggles within reason.I shoot many true flying shafts with a little wiggle in them.A shaft as you described would not work for me.
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I'll double check my numbers, but do have the heavy side marked. May not have the shafts fully straightened as well. I worked most of them down to 3/8 before checking spine.. I'm still learning this process.
Hawkdancer