Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Sidmand on July 15, 2019, 08:51:02 am
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Quick question - I am chasing a ring on a great Osage stave that I have and I want to back it with sinew and make it fairly short. But, I'm not sure exactly what I can pull off regarding how short with the width. Stave is probably going to be around 1 inch wide, certainly no more than 1.5 inches, probably averaging about 1.25 when it's all said and done. I'd like to keep it around 55 inches or so, would like to be in the 50 to 55 pound range at 27" draw. I think I have enough sinew for at least 2 courses, and I do want to flip the tips a little, but it will be a bendy handle bow with either leather or cork to build up a bit of a grip.
Do y'all think that 55 inches or shorter would be OK with this stave, and could I potentially go a few inches shorter (certainly no shorter than 50", I have a supermag if I want to shoot something that short).
For reference, that channel in my bow bench is meant to hold a 2x4, and the stave fits in there with maybe an 8th or so of clearance.
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Short bows just will never shoot as well as longer bows. If you need a short bow I would go as long as short bow possible. With a bendy handle your dimensions should be no problem.
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How long is that stave? I have made many short bows from 20 to 50 lbs., and from 38 inches to 56 inches, because that is all the stave would give me in length.They shoot OK for me at 15 yds. and in, and are fun to shoot. I would use every inch I could get out of that stave.If it is thick enough you could make a short bow from the split, chase a ring, and sinew back it. JMHO>
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You can easily get a 55# bow from a 1" stave but it should be longer than 55" for a 27". 1.25" would be better. 62" to 64" should be plenty long enough. No need for the sinew unless you specifically want a sinew backed bow and if you live in a humid area a selfbow would be less affected by the humidity than a sinew backed bow.
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I agree you should be able to get what you want,,,, with that design in mind
one of my favorite hunting bows I made 20 years ago was little more than inch wide,,52 inches ,,,65# at 25,,sinew backed,,
it really shot great,,you will enjoy it,, :)
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y'all are making me think - let me run my thoughts by you and I'd appreciate some feedback, as in "what would you do" given my situation. My desire is a good, hunting weight bendy handle bow. But the bow I see in my head has recurves that are blackend/fumed/vinagrooned and antler overlays, and has a sinew backing with snake skins.
HUMIDITY: I live in Alabama, and it's humid, but it's not to bad in Fall/Winter when this bow will get used most. This is my hunting bow for the forseeable future. I do just want a sinew backed bow, I don't know why - it's an itch I need to scratch even since I made one for a bow trade on here and just really liked it. I do have a selfbow already from the sister stave of this particular one and it shoots real nice, so at least I have a fallback.
LENGTH: The stave is about 64" or so I think, will measure it later. The only real reason I wanted it a bit shorter was based on where I hunt - it's thickish, and I either stalk slowly through said thickness OR I hunt in a brush blind (scared of heights, I don't hunt from tree stands). Shorter bows are a little easier to maneuver through my hunting grounds is all, but I'm open to suggestion.
So, what would y'all do here - keeping in mind the real minimum is 55ish pounds of hunting bow for thick woods? I know that the draw weight isn't the key there as far as will it do the job, it's on me for that, but I am very comfortable with that weight and it feels good to me.
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I am not a sinew expert but a 64" stave for a 27" draw is pretty good. Sinew for that length will probably slow the bow down. Jawge
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For most people I know accuracy really starts dropping below about 60". I guess if you practice enough you could overcome that.
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You know what you want. In the end it will be your call.60 inches would be a good compromise for ease of handling ,and accuracy.Sinew backed with snake skin and with flipped tips should make you a good bow for your needs.Other opinions may vary.
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To answer your question, 55" sinew backed will be fine...Your stave also looks very clean...How many layers of sinew? Just for protection or are you looking for performance? I will send you a PM with a link to an unbacked 55" it was 1 1/8" wide...
Don
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To answer your question, 55" sinew backed will be fine...Your stave also looks very clean...How many layers of sinew? Just for protection or are you looking for performance? I will send you a PM with a link to an unbacked 55" it was 1 1/8" wide...
Don
I think I have enough sinew for at least 2 layers, probably 3. I'm looking for performance over protection, but I'd like both ;). I'm thinking if I run the sinew up the limb to just below the hooks, like right up to the non-working area, I'll have a little more sinew and a little less weight out there where it won't do anything. But, that's just a thought.
The stave is real clean, just a few pin knots in a couple clusters, but nothing to close to the side or anything so far. Still have about 18 inches or so of stave to chase down, then I will try to do a build along and get feedback so I don't screw it up. I haven't made a bow in about 2 years now, so I'm feeling some rust.
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yes it did take a bit of practice ,, but the thing for me is,, on the shorter bows, I am hunting at average 15 yards,, and with practice the shorter well made bow can be quite accurate at that range for me,, now if you want me to shoot a 3d shoot,, or clout shoot at 100 plus yards, I am gonna go with a longer bow for that type of shooting,,
I really enjoy shooting the shorter bows. so that probably helps me practice enough to hit something,,
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It took me a long time also to get good with short recurves but I finally did with lots of thoughtful practice. Look at previous builds for info on sinewing and having a build along will get you plenty of help and suggestions.
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Here's one I sinewed last summer and finished up in January. It's not a bendy handle but it's 1 1/8" wide, 53" ntn & 50#@26". Didn't flip tips. Bow has 1 1/2" reflex.
I agree with above posts about accuracy. Inside of 15 yards I'm fairly accurate but beyond 20 my accuracy declines much more compared to my longer bows.
Good luck with your build. I think you should have no problem getting 55# out of that stave.
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Nice bow their Steve.Hope you make what you want, and then post some pics. of it for us. Good Luck.
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thanks all! I think I am going to go with 60" tip to tip, which would be about 59" nock to nock after its all said and done. That should be a decent balance between shortish and still give me some limb to wiggle with. I can actually shoot short bows pretty well - my most accurate bow is my super magnum and it's WAY short, but I do agree with others regarding the stability of the longer limbs and making it easier to shoot.
Almost done ring chasing, and I will start a build along thread in the near future. Don't have a lot of time these days for pictures and whatnot, so it will be hit or miss, but I need this bow to succeed so I will try to ask a lot of questions.
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I am lost in internet limbo, Sidmand. LOL.
Are you cutting down a perfectly good stave just to use the sinew?
I once made a 64" bow from an osage sucker, with 3" of reflex, that was 1" wide, had a sapwood back and finished out at 48# drawn to 26". You don't need much osage to make a bow.
My style of shooting struggles with shorties.
Jawge
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I am lost in internet limbo, Sidmand. LOL.
Are you cutting down a perfectly good stave just to use the sinew?
I once made a 64" bow from an osage sucker, with 3" of reflex, that was 1" wide, had a sapwood back and finished out at 48# drawn to 26". You don't need much osage to make a bow.
My style of shooting struggles with shorties.
Jawge
I'm cutting it shorter to better carry it in my thick hunting woods and because I actually shoot shorter bows at least as good if not better than longer bows. The longest bow I have ever shot well was 62" nock to nock; most of the bows I made were 60" tip to tip because that was what lumber I had or staves I had available, so I got used to shooting shorter/shortish bows. I'm using the sinew cause I just really want to make a sinew backed bow and this osage is the only stave I have that I would deem worthy of the effort :D
I measured the stave yesterday and it's 65" long, so I'm only cutting 5 inches of it off. I will use that last piece for a knife handle for the skinning knife I'm working on
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Thanks for the explanation. :) Jawge
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Before you cut your stave try to picture the bow in it and cut that out even if there is a little coming off each end, placing those pins in the best, safest place they should be.
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Before you cut your stave try to picture the bow in it and cut that out even if there is a little coming off each end, placing those pins in the best, safest place they should be.
Pat, by pins do you mean the nocks/ends? I ask because I was going to do pin nocks and was wondering if you were reading my mind :o
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I was referring to the pin knots but you should also consider the pin nocks before cutting out the bow. Don't overthink it but do consider the completed bow before you start removing wood. We are using natural materials so you don't know for certain what's under that next growth ring or what will you find while removing wood. This is where experience comes in but even a seasoned bowyer finds these surprises so just be thoughtful as you bring life back into this chunk of wood. :BB
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I wanted to add, that I found the quickness of draw,, and ease of movement in a tight hunting situation with the short bow to my advantage,, so much so that I did not feel any lack of accuracy,,at closer range,,and that is my my weapon of choice to deer hunt with,,,, that being said I like all bows,, :) the shorter bows certainly make a fine hunting weapon,,as will the longer bows as well,, (-S