Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: mountaineerbowyer on June 04, 2017, 04:29:21 pm
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I've made a few bows out of hickory and maple staves but I'm having a hard time making arrows. The only arrows I've made were out of dowel rods from the hardware store. I'd like to find out what natural wood and plants native in my area can be used. I live in the northwest part of West Virginia. I've gone to native American museum's near me and done a little research but all I can find is that they used hickory for arrows. I haven't been able to find river cane, I've heard of people using witchhazel. Any suggestions?
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You may have sourwood trees in your area. Sourwood shoots are one of my favorite arrow shafts. Also, viburnum. Bamboo garden stakes make good arrows and can be bought from most hardware or garden centers.
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If it's straight or can be straightened give it a shot. Lots of garden shrubs have nice straight shoots that make great arrows. You'll find out if there're good when you spine them. If they're heavy and limp they're kindling.
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Red osier or any of the shrub type dogwoods make good arrows too.
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Most natural hardwood shoots make fine arrows. The list is almost endless.
Much more on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/archer.html
Jawge
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Rose bushes make excellent shafts also. Wild or domestic doesn't matter. They should look larger than what you want for an arrow shaft so when you peel the thorns and bark the leftover material is about or close to the diameter of an arrow shaft. Peel the thorns and bark as soon as you have cut them. Cut them long so you can take the best part for the arrow. Band them to something straight as they dry. Straighten once in a while as they dry. Dry for a year if possible. Killed several animals with rose shafts.
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Jimmi, I've had rose(and other natural shafting) check if I took the bark off too soon. Do you not have that problem?
Mountaineerbowyer, when using natural shoots for arrows be sure to use second year growth or older. First year shoots will make arrows but IMO they are flimsy and don't stay straight.
First year growth on shoots has leaves along the shoot or at the top of it. Second year, small branches grow from a bud below the leaf scars where the first year leaves were. I prefer to harvest shoots in the winter so I know the second year growth ring is fully set down and has matured. These make very good arrows but they take considerable work.
Take a 3/8" open end wrench with you as a gauge to determine the correct size shoots while out cutting.
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Pat:
Most of the rose shafts I have collected in the past have been cut in early summer without noticeable checking. That being said, I'm sure time of year and area humidity are a definite factor. It's a lot easier to get the thorns off when green though. I guess it would be best to experiment with whatever material one is gathering to assure one's efforts aren't in vain. It certainly is disheartening to waste any self obtained materials.
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I agree, Jimmi.
I've been told that you can leave about 1" of bark on each end of a green shaft and they won't check but I've never tried it.
I use mostly sourwood shoots and I can skin(debark) them as soon as I cut them, no matter when, and they don't check but other shoots I've cut have checked if I skinned them too soon after cutting.
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I am not terribly far from you. Multiflora rose is good, Russian Olive and Southern arrowwood if you can find it.
Here is a list of materials I collected years ago. You'll have to figure which ones are near you.
https://boweyrsden.wordpress.com/2014/02/18/9-shafting-materials/