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Yeah, but.... what kind of sammich was it? A benign PBJ? Or more exotic Ham mayo cheese and tomato? Or perhaps the dreaded tuna salad?

At this point I dunno if the finest archeologist with access to a major lab would be able to tell!
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 10:02:55 pm »
Complex composite
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 10:01:38 pm »
Simple composite.
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 10:00:07 pm »
Three record bows . The selfbow in the middle took no set. The one on the right simple composite boo backed Osage took set thru out the limb. Different design though. The one on the left a complex composite boo back boo laminate gemsbok horn belly took set fade to mid limb. All three 67” long
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 09:40:20 pm »
The second pic is unstrung. The tracing above the braced tracing is of my record bow unstrung. So I would say that the bow unstrung took set fade to mid limb.
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 09:26:16 pm »
Pic. I think that was a snake bow . See the shadow in n the left limb about mid limb. If so Bob has that one.
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Bows / Re: Stress and performance
« Last post by Selfbowman on Today at 09:19:56 pm »
Willie I very seldom have over 1-1/2” total set. If so it’s a hunting bow that has been strung for hours on end. Still a great bow just has more Set. As far as following a certain bend profile on my tiller tree no. My tiller tree has my record bow traced out strung. When I get it to match that profile at brace  it usually makes a good bow. No matter what the draw weight is. Hundred pounders of the same length take more set. That being said I have only built 100 pounds for flight. They broke records but I think there is room for improvement. As far as where set shows up . I’ve had it thru out the limbs. Fade to mid limbs. My last 9” that has most all of the reflex in it does work out to about 3” from the tips. So I probably over build this area some. You take to much off in this area it will pull out if your not careful in tiller process. I will post a pick of my tiller board but Its posted before. That’s why I am sure some of you guys are better at tiller than me. I’ve tried different methods . One being tiller the bow and take the last couple pounds off at the fades making the working  limbs longer at the fade.ive moved the mass around in 67” for some years.
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Bows / Re: Cutting and sealing hickory
« Last post by Hamish on Today at 08:08:05 pm »
If I cut some 6” to 10” hickory fully leafed out in June with temps in the 90 to 100 degree range and 50 to 90% humidity, and split into quarters and peel the bark the same or next day, do I need to seal the backs, or just the ends? I’ve never worked with hickory before.

Absolutely seal the back of hickory. It's one of the white woods that will check badly as it dries, especially if left as quarters from a large log.
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Bows / Re: Cutting and sealing hickory
« Last post by Piddler on Today at 07:18:14 pm »
Lots know more than me and may have better advice but if the bark comes off it needs to be sealed pretty quickly as well as ends and down the side for 3 or 4 inches.
Piddler
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Bows / Re: Cutting and sealing hickory
« Last post by bentstick54 on Today at 05:42:26 pm »
Or is there too much moisture in the sapwood to seal immediately?
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