Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: k-hat on January 15, 2012, 08:57:49 pm
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here's a bow i'm working on:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120105_001-1.jpg)
Got it down to floor tiller, and has parallel limbs to last 10" where it tapers to the nocks. But side profile is perty much the same.
Question: How much correction and where would you do it? Take away some reflex in one and add to other? Match deflexed limb to reflexed? Flip tips to match.
Thanks for any suggestions!
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I wouldnt touch that beauty. I would tiller it out as is.
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The only thing I would do is flip the tips and finish her out....We wanna see this thing finished too.....! ;D ;D
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What they said that's too interesting to mess with. Ron
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I would wrap it up and pack it in a carpet tube and mail it to me! I like that one. it looks fun.lol that one is far enough "out there" I wouldnt correct it, try to tiller as is and enjoy it- Ryan
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Ever so slight tip flip. Looks like a very gracefull and fun character bow to me
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What they said.
Lane
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Please put a snake skin backing on it when you git her shooting..As you can tell I have faith in ya.That's gonna be one sweet looking bow.
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Y'all are crackin me up! I was tempted to tiller as-is, same as y'all. . . but that scared the crud outta me, so i was gonna straighten her out ::)
BUT, since y'all are all encouraging and stuff, and believin in me, Ima go for it! Y'all gotta promise to help me out though ;)
twisted: i've got a few more from this stash that will likely turn out similar, i'll set one aside for ya!
Bill: thanks for believin in me, i'll have to skin another, this one is for the wife (gives me time to hunt down a snake :o )
Thanks a ton boys, can't wait to get to tillerin!
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I'd be a lil nervous too. But why not?
If you ain't breaking you ain't building right?
I tend to build and build and build until I break... just to learn what I can get way with. Its a hobby not a way of life, right?...
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tiller her out as is.that is one sweet looking bow.good luck with her brother,Steve
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well you get it tillered yet...its been like 30 mins already..lets go..lol yeah if you set one aside for me, We will work out a trade
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I hate to be the dissenter, but I would add reflex to that left limb where it dips down. Every bow I've ever done with reflex in one limb and deflex in the other has not worked well. I don't mind all the snakiness in the world, but I don't do reflex/deflex (one limb each). Just my opinion.
George
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I agree with George. Take that little bit of deflex out of the left limb near the grip and she'd have a fairly symmetrical look with a setback handle.
And it'll definitely still have character.
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BUILD IT AS IS
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That would have been a nice stave to add the reflex needed while green.
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I would get my heat gun out and straighten that sucker up, add some reflex and make a normal bow out of it.
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No fixing required. That one just needs till erring. It may look a bit unusual but that is thpoint of using Osage. Have fun!
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Appreciate all the input, dissenters and all! I seriously considered doing some correction on that left limb, reconsidered, and considered again after a few of you said it would be a good idea. Unless i chicken out in the next couple of days, i'm gonna do a little sideways correction in the morning to get the string more into the handle, then start tiller. I think it will be an awesome teacher either way.
Thanks again for your suggestions, and i might yet change my mind. . . you'll know when i get the first tiller pics posted ;)
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Yes Sir!
I'm with You Fellers...
Can't wait to see it Skinned and Shooting!
-gus
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I would mach the left limb to the right limb.
But that's just me !!
Guy
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Ok, put'r on the tiller block this morning. Shot a couple of pics and a video i'm gonna try posting ala coaster500:
At rest, no tension:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120117_001B.jpg)
Drawn to 14" and 15# on somewhat long string:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120117_003B.jpg)
Here is a video link so you can see movement:
http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/?action=view¤t=120117_001-1.mp4
Sorry for the quality, gotta get a decent camera, will when funds permit ::)
Looking forward to your comments:)
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Here's what i see, lemme know what you think:
Looks to me like the left limb is the stiffer one (deflected 2" to the other at 4"). Seems like after another 2 or 3 inches of draw they might be about even?
Inner third of left limb isn't doing a thing, the right seems stiff just outside the fades. Middle and outer thirds doing most of the work. Tips of course are stiff, looks like they give just a touch, but hard for me to tell?
What do your eyes say?
So, should it have the normal "D" profile at brace, excepting some desired stiffness in last 6-8" of each?
Hoping the more experienced folks chime in!
Thanks for lookin and any help offered!
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Man I would have a heck of a time tillering that by eye! I would be using calipers to make sure I have a good limb thickness taper and call it good when the thickness taper is good and its at the poundage and draw length I wanted. Sorry im no help with this one! :D
Josh
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Sorry, I'm afraid I'm with Josh on this one but interesting project. I would have fallen into George's camp of reflexing the deflexed limb to start with but only because I would have no idea on how to tiller that bugger like she lays. Good Luck!
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Thanks, i'll keep the calipers in mind. I'm hoping to do this to train my eyes and hand a little better, and get a better understanding of how the wood bends and "shares the load." If i get impatient and frustrated, i'll have a pair of calipers in hand soon!
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Man if you flipped the left limb's tip you would have a really nice profile, with a set back handle and some nice recurved tips and all... Lookin nice.
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It would take me six hours to down load the video on dial up but the posted pics are useful. unfortunately the vid is likely the best thing to watch over and over to look for trends.
Having tillered a few of these funky Osage staves, I find squinting helps. Sounds goofy but I am serious. You ignore the myriad of details your eye picks up and look at the over all pattern. On this one it looks like the mid limb of the left side is bending more than the tip. However, the right side has the opposite problem. If you look at how much the limb tips are moving from the un-bent to bent photo each moves about the same distance and that is a good sign. I do not think you should expect a D shaped profile straight away. It may never develop at all. Make sure both limbs bend about the same distance, watch each quarter section to ensure it bends. On this one you may want to watch it in eighths. Squint a bit and don't give up. When you get 'er skint, you will have a character bow worth showing off.
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Get the bend the best you can and let your bow hand tell you the rest.
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm using a combination of your suggestions and it really is coming along nicely despite what your about to see!
So i know the long string lies, but this is ridiculous!! :o
Low brace:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120119_001.jpg)
Unbraced:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120119_002.jpg)
Can u say POSITIVE TILLER?! it's ok to laugh, i did soon as i strung it! ;D it was looking much nicer before the short string, and i knew that would change as soon as i low braced it, but that was a surprise.
I did quite a bit more work on it this morning and it's getting there. Lightnin up the right side, working inner and outer limb on left. I should have it looking right on low brace come tomorrow.
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PD: After working it some, i get what you were saying about "let your bow hand tell you the rest." Helps with the overall picture.
Elk: not using calipers, but close. I'm using a small c-clamp set to a low gap. I place one side against the belly and the other above the back, slide it down and watch the gap change. helped tremendously with the taper!!
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120119_002_001.jpg)
Do have to watch out for little bumps and ridges on the back, but it's easy to see where the taper is flat or or limb is too thick. Did most of that this morning after i saw my 3" positive tiller, so it doesn't reflect in the pics.
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Here is a problem area I saw the other day. A crack probly from not being so careful while doing the lateral string alignment corrections. It runs back to belly on one edge:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120119_003crack-2.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120119_003crack-1.jpg)
My plan is to finish the initial tiller, back it, and wrap/glue it before i do any serious heavy bending. That way i won't have to worry about removing belly material from this area. it doesn't open up at all with what i've done so far.
For the wrap: arty sinew, nylon serving, or dacron?
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Thats looking nice! Looks like you know what your doing! Well done so far and thanks for posting this.
Josh
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It's still not too late to take the deflex outa that one limb. >:D It would even up the brace profile (even though I kinda like that asymmetrical profile for some reason).
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Your much closer than you think. Leave that left side alone and CAREFULLY work the fades and mids on the right while the bow is short braced. Exercise it ALLOT between scrapes, more than your normal allot. Your tiller will change for the better. Obviously make that reflexed limb the bottom. If that right limb starts getting thin to catch up, take some width down rather.
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Thanks Elk and Rand, and i did think a couple of times "shor would quicken it up if i flipped that other side!". Being stubborn though ;)
Thanks PD, i'll continue on that in the morning. Thanks for the width tip, that'll help i'm sure, because i did notice this morning that the stiff limb was starting to look thinner than the other.
Think this is the most fun i've had on a bow yet ;D
Will post progress hopefully round lunch tomorrow!
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its like watching a bull rider. Stay on it man! Stay on it!
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I'm hanging on by my teeth, believe me!
made some more progress this morning, still have some work gettn her evened up:
here's yesterday:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavylowbrace1.jpg)
and today. . .
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavylowbrace2.jpg)
Here's some pics on the tiller block, then a video of the bending:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120120_001.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120120_002.jpg)
video link:
http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/?action=view¤t=120120_001-1.mp4
Again, thanks for all the help and encouragement that's been offered!
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See if you can get the middle on the right moving just a pinch more. Remember to exercise the heck out if it before you take any more wood away.
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I gotta tell ya, i exercised it so much i think it was exercising me!! 50-60 pulls each time i removed wood. Seems to work better if i bend it like doing floor tiller, then let it spring back to simulate shooting, which is what i would be doing if it was ready.
I'll work on it some more in the morning, specially the mid right, and hopefully have it even for next post.
Thanks for your help Chris!
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You do mean the right limb in the brace pic? Accidentally reversed on the tiller block.
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Yes sir. You are going to have cool bow shortly.
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I gotta tell ya, i exercised it so much i think it was exercising me!! 50-60 pulls each time i removed wood.
We call it bow making aerobics.... 8)
George
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I was exercising the limbs after wood removal and . . . CRACK! Lifted a large splinter on the back, right down the middle, bout 8-9 inches long. Here's the damage:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120122_003.jpg)
The culprit is a sneaky little pin knot that i missed, or neglected since it was sooo small . . .
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120122_004.jpg)
I know this just shows my inexperience in dealing with staves, so it's a little embarrassing :-[
I'm gonna patch'r up and back her. Here's what i have... superglue, TBII, arty sinew, nylon serving thread. What is your recommended fix on this? Should i wrap before i apply the backing or after? Either using silk or linen.
Arrrrgh! >:(
Thanks for any and all help!
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How about some goat rawhide. I would be glad to send you some so you can keep this project going.
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Man I think you have been handling his stave like a pro, I wouldnt have been worried about that pin knot either but I guess that shows that you never really know. I think any of the glues you mentioned will work fine for a fix, I like to use the real liquidy type super glue as it penatrates deep into the cracks and then you can clamp it untill it drys. as far as a wrap I think you would probably be fine without one if you get good glue coverage in there but others may disagree :-\
If you take bevan up on his offer I would think the Goat rawhide would work great, nice offer Bevan! ;D
good luck and here is the glue I use for wind cracks or stuff like this where you want the glue to really get deep into the small cracks, its also Strunk approved :D
(http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af314/mandoman1540/IMG_20111121_205937.jpg)
Josh
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Josh: Thanks for the glue advice. I went and picked up some of the runnier superglue like what you described and it seems to have done the trick. Made a bit of a mess with it, but i can clean it up. I'm still gonna back it and probly wrap the beginning and ending areas of the splinter just to be sure.
Bevan: That's awfully kind of you, and i may just have to take you up on it! I have some silk i was intending to use, but i hear that rawhide is even tougher. Maybe we can work out some kind of trade. I had an end in mind as to how this one was going to finish out, and i just need to think about the changes i'll need to make using the rawhide instead of the silk. I'll send you a pm later today. Thanks again bro for the awesome offer.
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The splintered limb is holding up nicely, did a little mild tillering this morning. There's only about 1/8" difference in the gap at midlimb, may leave as is and go on and start working both limbs, after I back it of course.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120123_001.jpg)
It looks like that curved tip isn't wanting to bend when i pull short on it, but i'm thinking it may open up more as full draw approaches?
The taper right now is only at about 1/16" from end of fade to the recurve. It's the mildest taper i've done so far.
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That looks pretty decent now. Try pulling it farther to get a better look.
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Great job, stay with it!!
You're getting real close :)
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Thanks guys, i'm liking the way it's looking. I'm waiting on some rawhide from Bevan, couldn't pass up his offer ;D
Until the rawhide arrives, i'm gonna keep it gentle and try to get'r as well tillered as i can with a short draw, then finish out after i get the rawhide on. Both limbs now have potential trouble spots that have me wincing each time a draw. :o
I'm estimating at least a week of dry time from what i've read, guess i'll start shaving on the next stave in the mean time :)
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I'm kinda perplexed with this one. . .
So i kept working that recurvy limb until the brace profile was almost symmetrical. Then i put'r back on the tiller block to see how she looks. When drawing, it's evident that the OTHER limb is stiffer. The bow actually rocks clockwise, causing even more bend in the recurve limb and less in the other. "So" i sez to myself, "weaken that other limb a little." Well, then the brace profile gets all outta whack again. :o
So here's what I'm thinking. I'm not gonna get a symmetrical brace out of this baby, mainly due to the way that non-recurve end is reflexes out of the handle. It's actually set forward quite a bit more than the other. So i'm still tryna figure out the next step. Here are the options as i see them:
1) leave it asymmetrical and get the limbs bending evenly, perhaps shaping the belly of the handle to compensate, or
2) i just forgot, how bout you fill in the blank? _____________________________________
Would recurving the other tip alleviate the problem?? Maybe i should make it the top limb.
Either way, I DO think i need to get the outer thirds bending more in both limbs.
HELP!! :-\
Here's pics and a video. You can see the rocking that's going on . . .
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120124_001-1.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120124_002.jpg)
http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/?action=view¤t=120124_001.mp4
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Ya she is rockin aint she, might make for a little hand shock when your shooting :-\
Josh
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Pull it that far by hand and I bet it feels balanaced if you use the left limb as your lower. Using trees too far into a tiller job is like using a long string to far into a tiller job. Thats just my own opinion. Once the tiller is good regardless of draw weight or length, I pull it by hand to that length after each wood removal. It always amazes me how a bow so unbalanced on a tree can feel so good drawn by hand.
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So i kept working that recurvy limb until the brace profile was almost symmetrical. Then i put'r back on the tiller block to see how she looks. When drawing, it's evident that the OTHER limb is stiffer. The bow actually rocks clockwise, causing even more bend in the recurve limb and less in the other. "So" i sez to myself, "weaken that other limb a little." Well, then the brace profile gets all outta whack again. :o
I have been there sooo many times! I think it is better to get it pulling or "working" evenly then what it looks like, I couldn't say what you should do in this situation though. I usually get it even :"looking", then weaken the overly strong limb till it feels even.
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yeah, i was tryna get the tiller evend up at the current draw before i finished it in the hand, then saw this happening, so i was kinda stumpd.
I'll work it some more in the morning and see what happens. She's learnin me somthin good I tell ya! I'll never see this craft the same again!!
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With a character stave like that you can't go by how it looks. You have to go by how it feels in your hand as you draw it back. That is one of the reasons I don't like T trees
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Thanks Marc for chiming in! Thanks Pearl for hangin with me on this one. I did a little work this morning and she feels good in the hand whichever limb is the bottom. Put a couple of arrows through both ways and can't tell a significant difference. Looked in the mirror also as i drew to 17". Here's what i see:
*the higher i brace it, the more balanced the tiller looks at brace and draw
*the non-recurved limb is thicker, but the rings i notice are thinner (4 rings per 1/4" vs the other end at 3 per 1/4")
*in all cases, it is evident that the thinner recurved limb is bending much more than the other, so it seems the non-recurved is actually the stiffer limb (which leads me to think adding any reflex to the tip would make things worse)
Should the recurved limb need to be thinner since it actually has to bend much more than the other from unbraced to drawn profile? Seems right in my mind, but y'all know better.
If that is not the case, I'm thinking that it'd be ok to remove some material from the other limb, which previously made the string slope MORE at low brace, but it will even up at full brace?
I'm not going to draw any further than the current 17" until i get the rawhide on, so i won't be able to check some of these thoughts until then (not removing any wood until i can verify that it needs it).
Hope I'm not being too big of a pain in the butt on this, appreciate so much y'alls help!!!
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I believe you're experiencing what prompted some of us to say we'd have evened out those limbs at the start. ;) I think it's cool that you're working through it, and you're going to learn a ton, but it's a tough row to hoe. Fortunately, you have the best character bow builders around helping you. Good luck.
George
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I agree with Marc and don't think that you have to good a good and even brace height. After you take the stave down from the t tree give it several short pulls to see how the limbs feel. Try to sense uneven balance..sometimes the handle pressure helps. Jawge
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See if this helps you. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/seneca.html
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I agree also,that is the main reason for straightening a limb out before tillering,it make things even and easier to see,with a character bow that isn't the case,it is more by feel and be sure to flip it from side to side as you look at the tiller.Also try very hard to keep the limb tapper even that will almost always insure a good shooter if the limbs are clean , not full of knots/holes ,just crooked. Look fine so far. :)
Pappy
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George n Pappy-- Believe me i learnd that lesson! Not that i didn't believe it to begin with, I just didn't realize what i was getting into i suppose. That said, I wanted a challenge and I got one!! the next will certainly be straightend before i go after it, need a little break from this brain strain!
I wonder, would our Native predecessors have straightened it, left it crooked, or added it to the brush pile? ::)
Jawge-- thanks a bunch, it does help seeing those pics!
Guess what i'm suffering from is the curse of the board bows -- easy to lean on your eyes and such and don't have to be able to sense from feel so much.
I'll try to stop looking so hard and feel my way through O:)
Fortunately, you have the best character bow builders around helping you. Good luck.
George
Aint that the truth!! Sure appreciate all of you :)
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Well now looky what the post man brought for me ;D
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/120127_001.jpg)
THANKS BEVAN!!! What you're looking at is some primo goat rawhide he offered to send to keep this lady together, and he sent 'em quick! I'm looking forward to getting these babies on and finishing her out!
I'm hoping Titebond II will work fine for gluing them down??
I did get to work on her yesterday and this morning, and she's coming along nicely. Sorry no pics, probly won't get any more up until the rawhide dries.
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Nice!
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Well get to glue-in Pilgram :)
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Thats nice clean stuff. TBII will work just fine for that. Give it 24 hrs and your ready.
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use tite bond 3 not 2 it s bettr stuff brock
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I thought i read about people needing to wait for several days for it to completely dry . . . is that with hide glue, and not necessary with wood glue?
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tb2 will work fine they say 3 is better I know its more expensive :D, I wait a couple days after gluing so the rawhide has plenty of time to dry out after it has been soaked to make it more pliable. Not sure if thats right or wrong but it has worked for me.
Josh
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Alright, thanks. I wasn't looking forward to a week wait anyhow!!
Gonna stick with TB2 mainly because that's what i have on hand and don't need to go spending more money on more glue :)
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Pat B posted this on another thread I would follow these instruction :) Hope you dont mind me copying and pasting your info Pat
QUOTE BY Pat B
That is basically it. Once the rawhide is well hydrated and pliable take it out of the water and remove the excess water. I usually roll it up in a towel or paper towels. Lightly sand the back of the bow and wipe it with a clean rag. Add glue to the back evenly and not too thick. Add a thin layer of glue to the rawhide and put them together. If the rawhide is real thin it may drape nicely over the bow without wrapping it. If not wrap it being careful not to pull the rawhide too much to one side(a common occurance). I use strips of old bed sheets but ace bandage works too.
I leave the wrap on for about an hour them remove it. The glue has started to set up but still soft. Feel along the back for air bubbles or excess glue pockets and work them out with your thumb of fingers. If the glue has set too much for this a pin prick in the rawhide will allow air to escape. For glue a small razor cut, lengthways will give room to release the excess glueThe small slit will disappear as the glue dries. Also, now is a goiod time to trim excess rawhide off with a sharp razor. Once that's done let it dry for a few days.
You can dye the rawhide before cglueing it of after it is on the bow. You will probably get a smoother appearance if you dye before glueing it down
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Great info!!! Thanks ;D
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I hate to do this to you, but here comes another long winded explanation regarding the importance of balance in bow making. You are on the very edge of grasping the problem and I think you would figure this out on your own in short order. But here goes. Put all thoughts of a symmetrical brace or full draw profile out of your mind on this one. The only symmetry works is if you start out with unbraced symmetry. With one limb deflexed and one reflexed , the reflexed limb has to travel slot farther to appear symmetrical. That means the reflexed one has to be weaker. No good that! What you need to concentrate on is equal limb travel through the draw and that all of the working part of each limb is working equally. You can use your tillering tree to do this, but you will need to lash a wedge of some sort to the handle so that the limb tips start at an equal level. Then you can see if they are traveling equidistant throughout the draw. I couldn't find my crayons so I scribbled a few diagrams with a pen to try and illustrate what I'm rambling on about. Josh
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Doc, these thoughts (about limb travel) were lurking around in the back of my head over the past few weeks, but they just hadn't congealed yet. Thanks so much, and that makes a whole lotta sense! Worked on it some this morning in the manner you're saying, and it worked wonders. I was already closing in and this just about nailed it. Tillered to 18" and looking good, just need a little more bend outta the outer thirds. Playing hooky from work tomorrow so i plan to apply the rawhide backing then and let'r sit a few days.
I'm sure i'm not the first to suggest a change of your moniker to "Bow Doc"!
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Glad to help! Josh
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gun doc that bow in your drawing looks pretty darn close to k hat's Nice draw up
Josh
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Alrighty, did a little more this morning before i apply the rawhide, wanna getr as close as possible before i do. Followed Doc's advice, using a leather wedge:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy19a.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy19b.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy19c.jpg)
How's she look? I'm still thinking the outer thirds are too stiff, but it may just be the curves tricking my eyes?
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If those outer limbs are stiff ,it ain't by much! Looks darn good to my eyes. Josh
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Get some rawhide on that before it blows on you. Your good to go.
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Alrighty then!! I'll get right on that ;)
Thanks, y'all are awesome. Yeehaw!
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Well now she's been rawhided and set up a few days and back to tillering. I went ahead and stained the rawhide soon as it was dry so i wouldn't have to wait again. Here's where she stands on a 5.5" brace, out to 20" draw:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy20a.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy20b.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy20c.jpg)
Whachyall think? i can't get past the stiffness in the outers (or what appears to be stiffness). She draws sweet and shoots nicely. No torquing or tilting in the hand as i draw. Coming in a little under weight. I'll let my wife feel it out and pike if necessary.
Lemme know your thoughts, and thanks!!!
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Scrape that dark spot on the right side about 15-20 times, just that 6-7" area. Then I say draw it to your intended length and see what happens. No mattter what ,it wont be violent with rawhide on the back!
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Wow, can't believe i didn't see that, it's plain as day now. I guess i was so focused on the reflexed part next too it i completely ignored it. Thanks, i'll see if i can do that at lunch today and see what happens!!
I feel like she'll make it just fine, sure hope i'm right ;D
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Rawhide is amazing stuff.
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Well, i've pulled her back to 23", wincing every time i do, and i gotta say she's turned me into a fraidy cat! I'm tryna get to 25, and i believe because of they way the string angle is working out, she's starting to stack a little. I REALLY don't wanna lose this one, but what will be will be.
Seems i remember reading in TBB about this same feeling, as the bow starts to stack, the sudden increase in forces makes you feel like she's reaching her limit, when it's simply string angle. now I know how that feels :o
Well, i'll post back when i've manned up and pulled to 25 :)
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Alrighty, got my courage up and pulled to 25" and. . . . still together!! I'll get a pic up soon as i can ;D
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Just pull the dang thing to 25" and be done with it! Its going to break at 25" now or later if its going to break at all. You can worry all you want and it wont help Kevin. Give the wood more credit man! Its tough stuff.
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I know it, but you know how it is when you're coming off a bad relationship lol
Anyhow, guess you were posting as i was that last one. She's doing fine, as i hoped and you knew ;)
Gonna see if i can run home and snap a full draw pic. May not have to pike her after all, feels like a good weight for m'lady. :D
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Just pull that thing to 26 so you wont be closing your eyes every time you shoot it ;D ;)
Josh
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Good plan Josh. Target panic generated by not trusting your bow sucks bad........
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If im making a bow for myself I usually pull it a inch past just for assurance as I know I wont over draw it much past that but if its for someone else I pull it a couple or three inches past cause you just never know what side of the tape measure they were reading when they measured there draw length ;D
Josh
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That's my usual MO as well for myself as well. I pulled it to 26 and it held fine. Here is full draw on the wall, no one was home to do a draw-in-the-hand pic:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy20a.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavy25.jpg)
That inner third on the right looks to be bending too much to me. I can see it moving quite a bit more than anywhere else. Don't think it's in the hinge category yet, but I think i'll work some more bend into the middle and outer on that one.
Left looks like i could do a little scraping just out of the fade about 3 inches.
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Well here's the full draw shot, i think i'm satisfied with the tiller now ;D
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/wavyfulldraw.jpg)
Now time to put the finishing touches and get'r all dolled up ;)
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Dude...you got a huge hinge upper limb followed by a long flat spot...and pretty much the same thing bottom limb... ;) :laugh:
So how does it "feel" when you draw,and is there lil to zero handshock upon release? Your the best judge at tiller cus you can draw and shoot it....none of us can. :)
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It looks that way because of the wavyness of both limbs. If you look at the brace pic (better yet, the unbraced), you'll see how much it rolls around. It's been messing with my eyes from the getgo, but both "flat" areas are working (though that one on top may need to work a little more, but my eyes are tired!). I probly should have shot a pic from both sides, but i was in a rush between jobs ;)
Thanks for the assessment though, it always helps to have somebody to make you go back and look again. I'm no expert (first character bow), so i definitely could be wrong, but i dont tink so ;)
As for feel, it feels good. It's kind of light (20#), so saying there's no hand shock just means i can't feel any :laugh:
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I know ;)...my first comment was just in jest ;) :laugh:
Even "if" the tiller was a teeny bit off im sure it'll be ok at that lower poundage.
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I say good job Kevin! I know I had a part in talking you into leaving the satve alone and tillering it out................but I wouldnt have!!!
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Well done Hatman :)
The first time I looked at your stave I took an asprin!!!
Good job!!!
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Well done sir!!
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Looks to me like ya did a fine job on that bent stick, especially considering what ya started with. Awesome work my friend. Now just go shoot the snot out of it.
Tattoo Dave
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Well done sir! That was a difficult tiller to pull off and you handled it like an old pro. Looks great and you learned a lot. Now, let's see the pretty work! Josh
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Nice work! I agree you handled it like a pro IMO We all get so used to seeing that perfect arc that when we see something with allot of character like this it looks like the tiller is off but its really not. Nice work and thanks for posting this I learned from it as well. Thanks
Josh
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Lol Blackhawk, i kinda thought you were joking, but i guess i'm just a little sensitive bout my new baby ;)
Thanks PD, you sure nuff took me out on that limb, but at least you didn't leave me hangin ::) Appreciate all your encouragement and insight (and patience!) on this one!
Thanks Coaster, the work you been turning out made me hafta step up my game ;)
Bevan: Thank you sir, and especially thank you for the rawhides! I doubt she'd have made it without 'em :)
Dave and Elk: appreciate the kind words, but it was due to the instruction and insight from all of you here that helped me git'r done!
Thanks Gun Doc, means a lot coming from you, and i really appreciate you passing on some of your wisdom and experience to this here newbie!
I'll spend my spare time getting her pertied up over the weekend, hope to have final pics by Monday. More bow porn ;)
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Looking forward to seeing the finished product! I don't have much wisdom, but what little there is ,you are welcome to! ;) Josh
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I mentioned earlier it was like watching a man ride a bull. I think your ride took longer than 8 seconds but you did well. Congratulations and thanks for sticking to it. I would imagine you have a great sense of satisfaction.
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Yes sireee, it feels real good ;D , and it was quite a ride! Thanks for the encouragement along the way :)
Time to post some finished pics!!
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Well here she is all done up and ready. This one i'm going to call "Eve" because she was a lot of firsts for me: first bow from a stave, first character bow, she's strung with my first handmade string, first rawhide backed bow (THANKS AGAIN BEVAN!!). Coincidentally, i also cracked my lower left rib :o while she was coming about lol (but not as a result of working on the bow). I Think Eve is a fitting name.
57" ntn, just a hair under 20#@25", 1 1/4 inch wide for most of the width, narrows to about 5/8" tips. Not much set to speak of, surprisingly, i think about an inch. The midlimb wrap on the top limb is functional, the others are just deco. I've never decorated a bow this much, i usually let the wood shine, but i think i like it:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Nenehandle.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Neneprofile.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Nenebrace.jpg)
borrowed this pose from Ken i think 8)
And the money shot:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Nenefulldrawfinal.jpg)
This is my son doing a good job helping with the pics. My wife didn't want to have her pics on the internet lol :laugh:
I REALLY appreciate all the help and encouragement given by all the folks here, couldn'ta done it without ya! Looking forward to doing one like this in a hunting weight!
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It looks like crooked glass with that finish ;)
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lol i guess it does! Wonder if there's a market for that . . . character glass bows ???
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Congratulations on the finished bow!
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Congrats,got to love it when a plan comes togeather.Way to stick with it,looks great and the finish is outstanding. :)
Pappy
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Fine lookin bow. the finish and accents look great too.
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Thanks Parnell, Pappy, Kenny. Finish came out better than i thought it would. Used a waterbased stain for the first time, it kept raising the grain and i kept knocking it down with steel wool, finally i said enuff and sprayd the poly!
Pappy: i don't know about a "plan", but yes i'm glad it came together! I guess the plan was "post it on PA so those guys can help me keep it outta the fireplace!"
Appreciate the compliments ;D
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Great job there Hatman!!!
Looks like Eve found Adam in the money shot :)
You defiantly stepped out of your zone, Congrats!!!
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awesome job i sure looks like a head scratcher to me. Great bow
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Thanks Coaster. Thanks Dazv. I'm still scratchin my head on this one lol ;)
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looks like you did a fine job , congrats on Eve
you start the next one yet ?
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Congratulations, that came out sweet. Very gracefull lines and you did well on the tiller. Those character staves will teach you allot about problem solving and you did well with that one.
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I learned from reading this. Thanx for sticking it out and then sharing all the progress along the way.
Do you mind telling what you used for the finish? Stain?
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That turned out great!!! Nice work!
Josh
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Thanks Ken! Nope, not yet lol. I'm ring chasing an osage stave now, but i've got a sister hackberry stave ready that i'll probly work on simultaneously (one of them will be my TG tradebow).
Thanks onebowwonder, glad it could be of some help :) Ima try to paste a link/pic of what i used. I think it's a new product. Worked ok, I probly just need more practice with it:
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/images/one-step-wiping-stain-express-color_260x270.jpg
I used the onyx color and I finished it with Deft poly spray.
Thanks Elk, appreciate your encouragement and input as well :D
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That's a fine looking bow! You done good Sir! Look forward to your next one. Josh
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Thanks Doc ;D
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Yes Indeed!
I Like how she turned out!
Cool color and Fine finish.
Bet its a fun shooting bow... ;D
And Thank You for this thread.
It's a Good build along for us new folks that like twisted wood. :)
-gus
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Thanks Gus, she is a pleasure to shoot. Takes a light arrow though! I may have to venture into the realm of river cane arrowsmithing!
If it helps someone else, then the thread has done its job, i'm sure i'll be referring back on my next funky stave ;)