Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mo_coon-catcher on October 09, 2017, 05:12:14 pm
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Here's a black locust asymmetrical bow that I just finished up for a BJJ training partner. He liked the looks of the wide bows, so this one is 2 1/8" wide from fade to midlimb then tapering to 3/8" tips. The lower limb is 25" from fade to knock and the upper limb is 26". It's got a bit of a thump, but nothing serious. Gets a 450gr arrow at 157-160fps and at least for me, puts an arrow right where I want it out to 20 yards or so. I was going to go for a hollow limb with this one, but I ended up getting a little aggressive with the scraper and realized it was going to get VERY thin in the middle of I continued. I ended up with a mild hinge from this. But got it pretty well corrected and making the weight. So it turned out well. The finish is early American stain with a coating of melted in beeswax. It started with walnut overlays, but my tiller string was a bit thick for the nocks and broke them. So I thinned them down and glued on some Osage. Makes for a nice looking tip.
Thanks for looking,
Kyle
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And a few more
Kyle
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Looks great! Very nice tiller. Jawge
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Very nice indeed. Great job working through all the unforeseen twists and turns. :OK
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Tiller looks great... nice work
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Good looking bow & nice tiller.
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Excellent bow and excellent design for locust. :OK
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I like that. I love the way locust looks and there is plenty of it there to look at.
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Looks good like all the profiles. Must have got that slight hinge fixed up real quickly I don't see any evidence of one. Nice work.
Bjrogg
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Very nice love the BL look with your narrow tips !
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Kyle,
That's a real nice bow. Oughta make him real happy.
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That's a nice bow! I love BL! FD looks really good so nice recovery from that hinge!
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Looks really good. How long is the bow?
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Thanks for the kind words everyone! I'm glad I was starting off heavy with it, as the hinge was real bad initially. Just getting a 1" brace and seeing the hinge made me fear I'd fretted it out. But there was no damage at all. The limbs ended up about 1/4" thick when finished so I was able to fully remove the dished area. The overall length is about 61", with 59" ntn. Anymore I've settled in 8" of handle fade area, 4" handle and 2" fades. And 1" past each nock.
Kyle
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Good looking bow, I guess this would be a pyramid design?
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Looks good Kyle. The slight bit of reflex in the unbraced profile is always attractive!
I've been shooting your ERC bow from the MOJAM auction for the last month or two and really love it.
OneBow
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Looks mighty good, Kyle. Congrats!
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Nice tiller, and I bet it's a sweet shooter too.
With that wide profile and thin limbs, you have very little or any set, right?
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I'm glad you like the cedar bow onebow! That's one if those bows I wanted to keep for myself, but am happy with who it went to. I hope it keeps being a god bow for you. Has it picked up any more weight from the sinew curing?
This bow didn't take much set at all. Probably 1/2", if that.
Kyle
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Nice looking bow.
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Kyle,
Good looking bow, nice job. I!m about to start roughing the hickory stave to shape, just got to make a bow bench and tiller tree! Got it marked out at 66". Will shoot for 45 - 50# @ 26".
Hawkdancer
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Awesome bow Kyle
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Kyle, thats an excellent design for BL. The bow looks very nice!
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I'm glad you like the cedar bow onebow! That's one if those bows I wanted to keep for myself, but am happy with who it went to. I hope it keeps being a god bow for you. Has it picked up any more weight from the sinew curing?
This bow didn't take much set at all. Probably 1/2", if that.
Kyle
Where did it take set and why do you think it did? A bow that wide should have been able to resist set fairly well? I love its looks, shape, and your craftsmanship you put into it.
I ask about the set, because I am trying to learn some things about it. Not nocking you over ut at all...
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Thanks guys!
Hawkdancer, you'll have to keep us updated on how they go. I hope those staves will work out for you and get some good shooters.
Sleek, I'd say the set is just and all over set. Not much, but just a little bit in each area. Maybe a bit more midlimb if anything. I bent in about 3/4-1" or so of reflex when I heat treated. It is still holding about 1/2" or so of the reflex. One limb had a bit of reflex ad the other had a bit of deflex before I heat treated. I tried to even it out when I heat treated. The reflexes limb stayed put and the deflected lower limb sprung back a but more than I'd hoped for, but not too bad.
Kyle
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Well, he can over to shoot it a bit and pick it up. About 20 shots in, CRUNCH! The lower limb peeled in half. Needless to say, he's gonna get a new one. But the limb states coming apart at the fade where I left an angular ridge where it went from fades to the handle. I used a saw to pre cut the dipps for the fades, I guess I didn't get the entire cut out. So between that groove and the sharp corner, it raised a splinter than ran down the limb splitting it inhalf. It makes you sick for a good shooting now to break so soon and in someone else's hands. And it even had a few hundred shots through it before that. I had been pulling it to 25" draw and he only pulled it to 24". Either way, no more corners left on the fades.
Kyle
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Little bit of Cyano an it'll go back together no problems. :-) gutted for you!
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Bummer man
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That's too bad - it was looking really nice.
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Repair it. Its not far from a regular laminate at this point. Then to keep the back laid down good at the handle, laminate a piece over it and shape to comfort.
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Yes I guess your fades were too steep. Any internal angle is known as a stress riser and concentrates forces. Add that too the grain being 'violated' at the fades and a bow that is a wee bit short......and the house of cards starts to topple! Maybe the lower limb was a shade weak too? Can't really tell for certain from here.
Sleek gluing that back together is a BAD idea! Ticking time bomb! Bows should ideally be flawless as we are straining the #@+*'s off them regularly and bad things can happen when something fails.
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Sucks Man been there !
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I agree,, if you make the fades a little more gradual next time it should work,
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I try extendin the fades out a bit more on the next one. The fades are 2" long, but that's going from 2 1/8" limbs to 7/8" at the narrow part of the handle. Typically the limbs are 1.5-1.75" wide with a 1" handle. So a lot more gentle transition for the same length fade.
Thanks,
Kyle
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Yes I guess your fades were too steep. Any internal angle is known as a stress riser and concentrates forces. Add that too the grain being 'violated' at the fades and a bow that is a wee bit short......and the house of cards starts to topple! Maybe the lower limb was a shade weak too? Can't really tell for certain from here.
Sleek gluing that back together is a BAD idea! Ticking time bomb! Bows should ideally be flawless as we are straining the #@+*'s off them regularly and bad things can happen when something fails.
Maybe I am a bit to bold at times. Id still do it though. Maybe with a coupke sinew wraps in strategic places.
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If I still had it I would give it a shot and see what happens. But I let him take it to with what he wants with it. A momento of his first bow, that lasted all of 5 minutes. it would be interesting to see how well it would hold up if glued back together and wrapped.
Kyle
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If I still had it I would give it a shot and see what happens. But I let him take it to with what he wants with it. A momento of his first bow, that lasted all of 5 minutes. it would be interesting to see how well it would hold up if glued back together and wrapped.
Kyle
I had a hickory bow break like that once. I used tb3, and glued it back. That was 2 years ago and I still shoot the bow sometimes. Id try to get it back from him and give it a go.