Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: simson on August 07, 2018, 09:52:36 am
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dw/dl: 41#/22
ntn: 44
bh: 4Ό
reflexn: 1½
mass: 244 gram
max. width: 1⅛
06: 04,8
08: 09,2 (+4,4)
10: 13,2 (+4,0)
12: 17,2 (+4,0)
14: 21,4 (+4,2)
16: 25,8 (+4,4)
18: 30,5 (+4,7)
20: 35,6 (+5,1)
22: 41,0 (+5,4)
This bow is heat corrected for string alignment and untwisting (particularly). It got an additional set back handle, I started with 2 and now after shot it still holds 1Ό.
After roughing out the stave was fumed for three days (back was prepped with osage soup). A slight sanding after the fuming process brought out an appearance like bark.
The belly got an additional iron-chloride staining after the tillering, and the combo of stain fuming and sanding brought a more or less olive tone.
A knot hole from a dead little branch in the lower tip was used as an unique looking string fixing (string has an ear here too). The upper tip is a common triangular shaped pin nock.
The handle got a glued on fish skin from atlantic cod.
How the string is mounted at the knot hole is here: http://primitive-bows.com/how-to-use-a-knot-hole-in-a-tip/
How I did the fish skin handle is here: http://primitive-bows.com/how-to-make-a-fishskin-handle/
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-1-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-2-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-3-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-4-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-5-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-6-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-7-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-8-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-9-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-10-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-11-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-12-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-13-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-14-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-15-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-16-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-17-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-18-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-19-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-20-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-21-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-23-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-24-von-25.jpg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/104.a-Osage-plains-fumed-fishskin-25-von-25.jpg)
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Nice work Simon. Your finishing technique on this one gives a lot of depth, very neat fish skin grip too.
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That hole for the string loop is clever, one less hassle to deal with.
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Awesome bow Simson,that is a beautiful bend, finish and pictures.
Thanks so much for sharing
Bjrogg
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I really love the bend on this one Simson. Beautiful work as always.
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just stunning. I grew up immersing my childhood mind with Indian stories and lore. I've always wanted a replica bow and plains quiver. this is on my bucket list to build. very well done sir.
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Nice shorty Simson...Excellent bend and looks very balanced which is so critical on these short bows...
Don
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Very cool lil bow..that knothole string keeper is perfect.
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Whatll you think of next...clever is right. Very interesting nocking and beautiful bend, but I think my favorite part is the color work, especially the cod skin.
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One word...
..Amazing!!
DBar
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You are a master of your craft...
DBar
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If I can make a bow that looks as good as yours and preforms well for years.....that is my goal.
Thanks for the inspiration...
.
DBar
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That looks great Simson! I love making and shooting the shortys. Cod skin is a great touch as well. Cheers- Brendan
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Holy smokes that is beautiful
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Wonderful finish on that top shelf bow. Thanks for sharing. Mike
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Top class work as always :)
Del
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Lovely little bow Simon! The combination of fuming and the soup works really well, nice warm tones in the wood. Beautiful tiller and nice detail with that knot hole!
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Great bow !!
I have a question. By applying osage soup on the back of the bow, it adds more tannin on the back and makes darker color after fuming ? soup itself also works like wood stain (?) or dye ?
is there any other wood that can be used as dye like osage orange ? maybe black locust ?
Can I use persimmon tannin as well ? because in my country it is used for traditional dye for fabric
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Thanks fellers! Glad you like that little stick.
Great bow !!
I have a question. By applying osage soup on the back of the bow, it adds more tannin on the back and makes darker color after fuming ? soup itself also works like wood stain (?) or dye ?
is there any other wood that can be used as dye like osage orange ? maybe black locust ?
Can I use persimmon tannin as well ? because in my country it is used for traditional dye for fabric
Yep, the osage soup makes a bow look older within some minutes (even without fuming) and the tannin makes the color darker or better let the color get quicker dark in the fuming process. I've never used other woods for making a soup like osage, but I'm sure it can. Possible woods are mulberry, black locust or oak - all these woods have a good content of tannin acids.
I have no access to persimmon, so I cannot say if it works. Just try it out and you will see, I'm interested what you get and pretty sure some others also.
Tip: When you will store soup in stock, add some alcohol. Otherwise the thing will be affected by funguns soon.
Btw.: I'm interested what you said about the persimmon dye for fabric. Do you have some info or link?
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Is it ill advised to drill a hole on a stave without a knot? Does the fact that yours is from a knot make it stronger than if it were drilled in a clean stave? Beautiful work!
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Lizard,
I'm pretty sure it can be done, in that manner I did. As the string (around the tips) prevent the wood from splitting. The horizontal string at the belly prevent the cutting in. Drill a hole with a diameter just to fit the string, sand out carefully and round the edges of the hole.
I wouldn't do it with soft wood like yew, eastern red cedar, juniper.
edit:
Just remember, I have seen African bows (long bows, not short San bows) with a drilled hole in one tip. But the string is only secured by a big knot on the back.
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Real nice little bow! Do you make the soup by just boiling chips and sawdust? Haven't heard that phrase or technique before. What do you mean by fuming, haven't heard that before, either. But I'm still learning this bow making stuff. Thanks,
Hawkdancer
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Thanks for reply
I don't know much about persimmon dye. we use specific species which contain much more tannin than sweet persimmon. Because of high content of tannin it taste bitter. We harvest when it's green before it ripe for more tannin. Then crush or grind persimmon and extract juice of it. The juice color is green but soak fabric in the juice and dry under the sun makes color orange. After drying, we sprinkle some water on fabric. By repeating this procedure the color gets darker. Instead of using juice immediately, if we ferment green juice about 1-2 years, green color juice became brown. I heard that for fermentation, we put some kind of yeast.
This dyeing method make fabric stiff because of tannin. I think there is many natural dyeing method that using fruit or plant which contain tannin. And by using mordant we can get different colors
I'm Korean and in Korea we use normally it for dyeing cloth but I saw on the internet that Japanese uses it like wood stain.
These are Japanese videos so I don't know what they are saying...
https://youtu.be/ltXshxYcmOk
https://youtu.be/y6NU0GU7jXM
In Japanese it is called kakishibu you can find some informations and even products on the internet site.
http://www.kakishibu.com/en/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=1
In this site you can find some informations in English and they sell persimmon juice. I think there is fundamentally not much difference between osage soup and persimmon juice in terms of using tannin.
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Wow nice work
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Gorgeous
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Real nice little bow! Do you make the soup by just boiling chips and sawdust? Haven't heard that phrase or technique before. What do you mean by fuming, haven't heard that before, either. But I'm still learning this bow making stuff. Thanks,
Hawkdancer
Hawk, you're on the right track - osage soup is made by boiling osage saw dust in a bit of water. Use the solution with some alcohol (prevents fungus affection). You can make a strong dye from this stuff, aging osage in minutes is no problem.
Here is some info about fuming: http://primitive-bows.com/fuming-experiments/
Dolgima: Thanks for the interesting info about Khaki.
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Outstanding! Came out great! Jawge
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hello Simon,
I`m always impressed when I see your craftmanship!
very nice shorty
Hans
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I love this bow! Great work. I'm going to have to look in to that osage soup.
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Stunning work again Simson! Why do some of your bows have numbers and some don't? Cheers
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That's one heck of a bow. Beauty in its simplest form. Always shocked at how thin/small your handles turn out. Never tried a bendy, but I imagine it's quite an art to make sure that area isn't bending too much. Inspiring work.
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Stunning work again Simson! Why do some of your bows have numbers and some don't? Cheers
All my bows here and on my website have numbers, just to make it easier to find. besides are a lot more bows which are not yet or never posted.
I like more to build bows than to make pics, texting, computing and so on ...
That's one heck of a bow. Beauty in its simplest form. Always shocked at how thin/small your handles turn out. Never tried a bendy, but I imagine it's quite an art to make sure that area isn't bending too much. Inspiring work.
Ben, let the handle and fade area first stiff - do that in the end stadium of tillering. Let it not so much bend than the entire limb, or in other words don't go for the exact circle, more for a shallow ellipse. This prevents hand shock.
Thanks guys for your nice comments and compliments - it's only a little stick ...
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Not sure we can call this a plains style bow with all the Simson style in this bow ;). Always love to see your work of creative efficiency.
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Great short bow! Great bend,color, and i am liking that hole tip. The tiller is spot on.
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Absolute poetry Simon. :)
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Nice work
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Lizard,
I'm pretty sure it can be done, in that manner I did. As the string (around the tips) prevent the wood from splitting. The horizontal string at the belly prevent the cutting in. Drill a hole with a diameter just to fit the string, sand out carefully and round the edges of the hole.
I wouldn't do it with soft wood like yew, eastern red cedar, juniper.
edit:
Just remember, I have seen African bows (long bows, not short San bows) with a drilled hole in one tip. But the string is only secured by a big knot on the back.
Just got back to this after looking at BOTM. Thanks for the response, and as always, for sharing your knowledge and experience as bowyer!