Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => At the Forge => Topic started by: KHalverson on December 07, 2013, 02:17:59 pm
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I do mostly forged blades now .
but here is a fairly simple build along that requires minimal of tools to transform a junk file into a good usable knife.
feel free to substitute tools as you have them.
my goal was to build a knife with only tools that most people here have.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/036_zps01c2fdba.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/036_zps01c2fdba.jpg.html)
here is my list of tools being used.
safety glasses
cordless drill
tape measure
belt sander
dremel tool
hammer
files
prick punch
sand paper (various grits)
spring clamp
propane torch
kitchen oven.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/037_zpsa1e290d2.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/037_zpsa1e290d2.jpg.html)
here is my intended victim with a sketch of the proposed knife
I chose an old u.s.a made Simonds file
I also use german and Swedish made files .stay away from cheap files! i.e china and Pakistan.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/038_zpsbeb55139.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/038_zpsbeb55139.jpg.html)
next step is to cut out intended pattern and trace on the file
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Yes Sir, Very Cool!
Looking forward to watching your progress.
Thank You for posting this thread!
Regards,
-gus
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Yes Sir, Very Cool!
Looking forward to watching your progress.
Thank You for posting this thread!
Regards,
-gus
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(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/041_zps756ae685.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/041_zps756ae685.jpg.html)
next step is to rough cut out the blank using the dremel and cut off wheels
I now use the belt sander to profile the blank to a more refined shape
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/043_zpsbeb3d158.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/043_zpsbeb3d158.jpg.html)
this is a slow process using only the 3x18 belt sander with a 36 grit belt
I like to do this bare handed so I can feel how hot the blank gets.
if it gets too hot to hold dip in water to keep cool.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/042_zps50795af1.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/042_zps50795af1.jpg.html)
here is the rough profiled blank ready to go into the kitchen oven
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Is it better to soften the file before rough out? Thanks for the biuld-a-long, been wantin to try this for some time now... Brian
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koan
you could run it thru a temper cycle before shaping.
my plan is to do this build along using the already hard file and tempering the cutting back to a more friendly, tougher, non brittle state
hopefully tomorrow I will be showing how to draw back (anneal) the handle and spine of the blade.
Kevin
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Thanks... Brian
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Kevin I think its cool your doing this. Need more files? We go through bastards at work like water.
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PD
thanks.
ive got a pretty good stash but if there good U.S.A made files I sure would take em.
kevin
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ok
knowing that the steel used in most quality files tempers out at around 400f.
we will start a little shy of that .
and my kitchen oven tends to run a little hot.
we will set the oven for 350f and let the blank soak for 2 hours
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/046_zps40819228.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/046_zps40819228.jpg.html)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/044_zpse691abf8.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/044_zpse691abf8.jpg.html)
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This is great stuff right here. Thank you so much for posting it.
I put a couple of old files in a campfire this past summer to soften them up. I'll be using your info to finish them up.
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after a 2 hour temper cycle and cooling its now time to test the hardness.
this is where sharp files come in handy.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/008_zpsa39ff6a1.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/008_zpsa39ff6a1.jpg.html)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/009_zps2a239814.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/009_zps2a239814.jpg.html)
the hardness feels pretty good to me.
a sharp file cuts the steel but not easily.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/010_zps1dc77e46.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/010_zps1dc77e46.jpg.html)
time to lay out and file in the choil
I want the blade to be 3 1/4 long so I mark the choil at 3 1/8
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/013_zps61a36f1f.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/013_zps61a36f1f.jpg.html)
I file in the choil with a sharp chainsaw file
again the steel is pretty darn hard but can be filed.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/015_zpse8dedbc4.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/015_zpse8dedbc4.jpg.html)
the next step is to draw back (aneal) the handle and spine of the blade.
for this I use the spring clamp and a cake pan full of water to protect the hardness of the cutting edge.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/016_zps0bbf59c2.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/016_zps0bbf59c2.jpg.html)
I now proceed to heat the handle portion of the blank to cherry red with the propane torch and let the heat transfer into the spine of the blade.
I do this 3 times to ensure that the handle portion is soft enough to drill.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/018_zps546a1d37.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/018_zps546a1d37.jpg.html)
after draw back I shape the handle to finished dimensions.
using files and the dremel tool with a 1/2 in sanding drum.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/019_zps0feca9ea.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/019_zps0feca9ea.jpg.html)
here the bevel is layed out on the blade and where the tough part of this job begins.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/020_zps57ece1e0.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/020_zps57ece1e0.jpg.html)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/021_zps330d8616.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/021_zps330d8616.jpg.html)
filing in the bevels.
I spent at least an hour filing each side.
its tough work even with sharp tools.
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Super great build along.....Love this one, 8) This is another thing to add to my to do list. There is just not enough time in the day, weekend to everything I want :( Retirement :-\ ???
DBar
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ok
bevels are filed in and look pretty good and even.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/022_zpsb9c8c9cc.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/022_zpsb9c8c9cc.jpg.html)
time to clean up the bevels slightly on the belt sander.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/023_zpsca5048e6.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/023_zpsca5048e6.jpg.html)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/024_zpse10eebff.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/024_zpse10eebff.jpg.html)
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Man, thats really lookin good!
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Excellent! I make most of my knives from files. Good ideas here. One question? Why not do the majority of beveling with the belt sander or such, then file to finish? One more??.maybe I didn't read well enough, but what grit sanding belt you using? I use 120 mostly.
Again, Excellent!, dpgratz
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Might just hafta get in on some of this fun! Looking good so far!
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bowtarist
the answer to the first question is there is no reason that you can't.
the reason I didn't was for control and sometimes it's hard for a newbie to get nice plunge lines and consisitant grinds the first few times out of the gate.
second question. I like a 50 grit for rough grinding and a 120 for finish then hand sand to 400-600 grit
the reason I'm doing this build along the way that I am is to show that with some simple tools and techniques a good knife can be produced.
Kevin
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Thanks KH! Great build-along. I like how you annealed the handle. I'm working on a dagger style with a single bevel on both sides right now. Ground a bit too much and got the center line off a bit, but it's coming out ok. Thanks again, dp
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great build along its something i have wanted to try for a while.
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Keep it coming, I am on pins and needles. I love posts like this, I learn so much from all the master craftsmen on here.
Grady
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thanks guys!
hopefully this weekend there will be more work done and posted.
Kevin
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Just saw your post KH. You've helped inspire my next project!! Thank you
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here we have the pin holes and lightening holes layed out and drilled.
for this I like to use the cordless drill because it has less rpm and there is less of a chance to overheat the steel and work harden it.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/001_zpsd9d51bfe.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/001_zpsd9d51bfe.jpg.html)
next we will start sanding out the blade.
I like to start with 80 grit and work to 120 the hardest part of this is getting sanded into the plunge lines.
I like to use a hickory slat with an angle ground on one end.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/002_zpsbd3ed979.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/002_zpsbd3ed979.jpg.html)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/003_zpsba608e50.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/003_zpsba608e50.jpg.html)
now im itching to test the edge.
I add a paracord handle and sharpen the edge to shaving .
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/004_zpsc3e1348b.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/004_zpsc3e1348b.jpg.html)
now I baton the knife into a scrap 2x4 until I am satisfied I have abused it enough.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/005_zps69d84edf.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/005_zps69d84edf.jpg.html)
I now inspect the cutting edge looking for chips and rolls using my thumb nail.
the edge felt great with no damage.
and still shaving sharp.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/006_zps9e90bd21.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/006_zps9e90bd21.jpg.html)
now we will proceed to finish the sanding of the blade .
I will probably go to 320 wet.
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Thanks so much for doing this build along, this is awesome I'll be trying my hand now :)
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blade is sanded to 320 grit wet paper.
not flawless but still pretty nice.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/004_zps51bcf1a2.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/004_zps51bcf1a2.jpg.html)
next a very small amount of gunstock wax is applied to the blade and then taped up both to protect the blade and yourself.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/005_zpsfefaaf8d.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/005_zpsfefaaf8d.jpg.html)
here I anneal the 1/8 inch brass rod that will be used for pins.
by holding the brass rod vertically and heating to red hot then promptly dunking in cold water.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/006_zps5e4a786c.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/006_zps5e4a786c.jpg.html)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/007_zpsc513bc28.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/007_zpsc513bc28.jpg.html)
next we cut the brass into 1 inch length and add a bevel both ends all the way around.
I then select a piece of wood for the scales.
I chose a piece of curly maple recycled from a pallet.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/008_zps45711423.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/008_zps45711423.jpg.html)
here is the left and right sides of the handle traced on the board.
I labeled them wrong in the pic but that's easy enough to change (no harm no foul).
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/009_zps0ae43ab3.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/009_zps0ae43ab3.jpg.html)
we then cut out the rough scales using what ever tools you have and clamp them one at a time to the blade.
keeping as close to the original tracing as possible.
I then drill the 1/8 holes one at a time and press a pin into each one after drilling.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/010_zps520ac17c.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/010_zps520ac17c.jpg.html)
next operation is to shape the first scale closer to finished dimension and the apply to the blade engaging the pins only enough to locate.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/011_zpsa80f79aa.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/011_zpsa80f79aa.jpg.html)
I then clamp to the second scale and remove 1 pin and drill thru the whole thing.
replacing each pin as soon as the hole is drilled.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/012_zpsa2f9d867.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/012_zpsa2f9d867.jpg.html)
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after the pin holes are drilled in the second scale .
I then mark the front end of the scales.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/014_zps10754a5b.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/014_zps10754a5b.jpg.html)
I then cut the front close to the line and work down with a file trying to keep them both 90 degrees from the center line.
I sand them both to a 240 grit using the trusty hickory slat.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/015_zps59304891.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/015_zps59304891.jpg.html)
after sanding I then pin them to the knife again and make sure they are where I want them .
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/016_zps58e8b2a2.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/016_zps58e8b2a2.jpg.html)
next step is to add a small chamfer on the inside of the scales on each pin hole.
I also like to score the inside of each scale with a hacksaw blade to give the epoxy something to grab on to.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/017_zpscc27b90c.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/017_zpscc27b90c.jpg.html)
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curly maple palets :o where the heck did you find it? all that i can get here is preasure treated
pine and oak >:(
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SPOILER ALERT! DO NOT LOOK AT THE FOLLOWING PICTURE!
(http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo100/JW_Halverson/Muzzleloading%20stuff/2013%20flintlock%20buck/CopyofSAM_0114_zps3df6dfe0.jpg) (http://s365.photobucket.com/user/JW_Halverson/media/Muzzleloading%20stuff/2013%20flintlock%20buck/CopyofSAM_0114_zps3df6dfe0.jpg.html)
BWAHAHA! Made you look!
Thanks for a wonderful piece of art/artisanship, cuzzin. And thanks for this build along. I got a couple files that aren't busy at the moment....
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this is a great build a long,thank's for doing this, bub
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big ole mill files can be obtained from garage sales for $.10 a piece :)
I mean files big enough to make a machete- we are talking some monster 15-20" files, 3/8ths inch thick, and 2" wide... double bastard cut.
:)
they make GREAT knives
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Thanks for doing this Kevin.
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next installment.
I like to lay everything out and prepare to epoxy on the scales.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/018_zps711118d9.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/018_zps711118d9.jpg.html)
ok
my epoxy is mixed and I apply a thin layer in the front .
where we don't want epoxy squeezing out on the knife blade and get more generous around the pin holes.
I install all 3 pins making sure that there is epoxy in the holes.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/019_zps36a5b1d1.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/019_zps36a5b1d1.jpg.html)
I then install the scale on the knife.
I put exoxy on the 2nd scale the same as the 1st and make sure to fill the lightening holes on the blade
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/020_zpsf43d251d.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/020_zpsf43d251d.jpg.html)
next step is to clamp it all together.
how if your scales lie flat like they should it don't take much pressure to hold everything together.
do not over tighten and squeeze all the epoxy out starving the joint.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/021_zpsadbbea95.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/021_zpsadbbea95.jpg.html)
we have a nice glue up and only a very small amout of glue on the front of the scales
it wont be a big deal to clean that up later.
now we give the knife at least 24 hours curing time.
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Cool! These are some great tips. Thanks for posting this.
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now the epoxy has cured and I proceed to file the outside of the wood flush to the tang.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/001_zps175bde5b.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/001_zps175bde5b.jpg.html)
here we are flush all the way around.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/002_zps3700d2e3.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/002_zps3700d2e3.jpg.html)
next we profile the sides of the wood close to our desired handle shape using files and rasps.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/003_zps7551fd70.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/003_zps7551fd70.jpg.html)
here the handle is shaped close to my liking.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/004_zpsc0038d2b.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/004_zpsc0038d2b.jpg.html)
now its time to start sanding the handle using the hickory slat and various grits of paper.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/005_zps254cb573.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/005_zps254cb573.jpg.html)
after sanding to a 150 or 220 grit I like to burnish the wood with a piece of brown paper bag.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/006_zpsf415fd11.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/006_zpsf415fd11.jpg.html)
now its time for some finish.
I like Danish oil.
apply following the directions on the can.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/008_zps07d3cbe4.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/008_zps07d3cbe4.jpg.html)
after the Danish oil has dried I follow it up with 4-6 very light coats of tru-oil.
again following the directions on the bottle.
after the tru oil has dried I follow up with a couple coats of gunstock wax.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/009_zpsdcb958ec.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/009_zpsdcb958ec.jpg.html)
now its time to take off the tape and remove the residue.
after a little clean up we have a finished knife ready for leather.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/oxbowsteelheader/011_zpsfe45f283.jpg) (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/oxbowsteelheader/media/011_zpsfe45f283.jpg.html)
that's about it folks!
I hope this encourages some of you to try this on your own.
Kevin
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nice build Kevin, don't know if you mentioned it or not but brass brazing rod works great for the pins.
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Thanks Kevin! I have been wanting to try this for a long time and you answered all my questions.. And that blade is awesome!!... Brian
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Great build -a-long Mr. Halverson....
Would a little flame bring out that purty grain?
DBar
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That was great KH. I've made several out of files and learned a lot from you on this thread. I've never used the danish oil, but am using some tru oil on the ones I'm making now.
Have a gooder, dp
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killer duck
brazing rod does make great pins and cheaply too.
when I first got started building knives I used nails and all sorts of welding rods aluminum- stainless and what ever else I could get my hands on.
Danzn bar
yes it would.
but I would be carefull not to get em too hot or the epoxy may release.
bowtarist
thanks.
I cannot wait to see some pics of your builds.
Kevin
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Really appreciate the details. Am going to try your techniques. Joe
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Really enjoyed following ur progress. Got a chance to give it a shot today and have it in the kiln now. I'm a little unsure about the temper/annealing process, but I'm just trying to follow ur instructions to the letter.
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Really enjoyed following ur progress. Got a chance to give it a shot today and have it in the kiln now. I'm a little unsure about the temper/annealing process, but I'm just trying to follow ur instructions to the letter.
temper is bringing the hardness down.
annealing is removing it completely to a soft state.
Kevin
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So I am trying to hit 375ish (and hold for 2 hours) to make the blade less hard?!? I assume it needs to cool overnight, right?
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Yes Sir!
Love the way this Knife came out.
Thanks a Million!
Can't wait to give your Build Along a go.
Just as soon as I finish all my Christmas Projects...
:)
-gus
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So I am trying to hit 375ish (and hold for 2 hours) to make the blade less hard?!? I assume it needs to cool overnight, right?
375-400 for 2 hours remove from oven and let cool on its own
if your using a kiln I fear you may soften the blade too much by leaving it in the kiln to cool.
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Ok, not a problem. I'm using this as a learning experience anyway. Look forward to making a few more of these.
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Bought 2 good old USA files today. 1 buck a piece. Gonna try to build a small firebrick/benzomatic forge and make a knife. Cool build, Kevin.
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Thank you, Kevan! Your build along was spot on! Love this knife and already plannin another.
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/12DE765C-2D88-4831-8E4E-93E72990B8FA_zps7xw5jv6k.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/12DE765C-2D88-4831-8E4E-93E72990B8FA_zps7xw5jv6k.jpg.html)
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/F895CE07-BEB3-4E85-924B-F8E0EE6B6A0D_zps0zhedanb.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/F895CE07-BEB3-4E85-924B-F8E0EE6B6A0D_zps0zhedanb.jpg.html)
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scott
that looks great.
keep em coming.
Kevin
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Oh no, another project for me to try.
Thank you for posting the tutorial, great job.
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Very nice!
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DANG Scott! You whipped that baby out! nice work, dp
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:P I just finished the blade on mine, it ain't near as pretty as what you guys are making but it will do the job
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hi kevin just a quick question, i have been following your build along but also looking at others, all the others mention quenching to harden then tempering in the oven, what will be the difference if it is not quenched first? will the blade still be the same as the ones that are just tempered, or have i missed something in this build along where you say to quench. thanks danny.
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danny
we are tempering the as hard file so it is not so brittle.
no quench on this build.
there shouldn't be a big difference in the hardness after temper vs doing a full quench and then a temper cycle.
basically apples to apples.
the reason I did the build along the way that I did was to show that a great performing knife can be built with a minimal of tools and some sound techniques without having to have everything that is needed to do a full anneal.harden and temper.
just simpler this way for most folks
Kevin
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ok thanks for that kevin. i just wasnt sure if there was a big diffence. this is the first time i have really worked with metal.
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Outstanding,
Thanxx fer takin the time to do this for us.
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I ended up only being able to keep a file in the oven for an hour today do I simply just put on in for another hour?
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I ended up only being able to keep a file in the oven for an hour today do I simply just put on in for another hour?
yep!
or a little longer wouldn't hurt.
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That's a beauty
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Thanks Kevin! Would have never tried something like this, but you made it look so easy. The hickory slat works great for sanding too...... Here's mine - 3.5" blade with oak handles.
Bryan
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Thank you for putting together this post. I have just started fooling around "assembling" a couple of knives using blade blanks. Next step for me will be making a blade from a file. Thank you again for taking the time to post this.
Brian
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Great build along! Even I might be able to make a knife blade, since I have all the tools - now for time and space! Btw, Brian, your knife loos good, too. Thanks!
Hawkdancer
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K.Halverson hasn't been logged in since July 2016...Has anyone heard from him...Hope we haven't lost him from the site...
Don
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I hope he comes back and shares some knowledge on the new forge section. I learned a lot from his posts.
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Clint, I emailed him about "At the Forge"...He said he would check back in and see what's going on...
Don
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Good deal! I hope you post some of your work also. Now that we have a dedicated space I would love to see some new projects posted. I saw one of KHalversons railroad spike hatchets in person. I want to try to copy it.
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Clint, I was fortunate enough to have one of his hawk heads from a spike...Here's the link http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,44219.0.html I gave it to friend and wish I had another one...I do make knives at times but I don't forge, I use 154cm stock...
Don
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First off Kevin thank you for a build-a-long that even a stone carver can do. I have some pallet wood that stone came in from over seas. What they call pallet/crate wood, is precious to us. Can't get anymore though, customs has it incinerated now because of invasive species. I also have some old files an rasps from Italy, Germany & the US. that I use on stone. We re-sharpen the teeth by dipping in acid and neutralize in baking soda. Some now are too far gone, but I can't seem to let them go because they were handed down from my stone carving mentor. Now I have a avenue to put them back in use, Thank you.
A couple question on the brass pins. 1) Do you score/scratch the brass to give the epoxy something to grab a hold of ? 2) How much clearance in the scale holes for the brass pins ?
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This is one of the easiest to understand and follow build alongs for simple knives I have ever seen. Thanks, Kevin.
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First off Kevin thank you for a build-a-long that even a stone carver can do. I have some pallet wood that stone came in from over seas. What they call pallet/crate wood, is precious to us. Can't get anymore though, customs has it incinerated now because of invasive species. I also have some old files an rasps from Italy, Germany & the US. that I use on stone. We re-sharpen the teeth by dipping in acid and neutralize in baking soda. Some now are too far gone, but I can't seem to let them go because they were handed down from my stone carving mentor. Now I have a avenue to put them back in use, Thank you.
A couple question on the brass pins. 1) Do you score/scratch the brass to give the epoxy something to grab a hold of ? 2) How much clearance in the scale holes for the brass pins ?
[/quot
I don't scratch or score the pins,
I use a #30 I believe it is # drill that drills a .130 diameter hole which is 5 thousandths of an inch larder than the 1/8 diameter pins.
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Thanks for the reply. When I finish with my new shop here in OK. I will definitely be putting this new to me knowledge to work. By the way I use to live in Freeland, MI., east on M-46. Go Blue! John
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YUP, Kevin is a generous guy. When he saw no-one was doing a "how to" on making fire strikers he contacted me and told me he would help me out. Kevin lives just 30 miles from me so it will be a short drive for my lessons.
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This is a great build along! Thanks for taking the time to guide us along.
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Maybe a post on simple fire strikers? Self operating? I need a left handed model,though! >:D
Hawkdancer
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Bryce can you have this put at the top so it stays there? It's a good build along.
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I agree, needs to be a Sticky...Well documented build...
Don
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Kevin,
I have a couple of questions, does the length of time to temper change due to thickness? I assume the only way to really tell if it is tempered is by the file test. I assume an outdoor gas grill will work provided you can get it up to temp and hold that temp for a long enough period of time.
Great tutorial.
Thanks
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When tempering you are actually slightly softening the steel so that it isn't brittle. I clean my knife well before tempering and try for a light straw color when done
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Kevin,
I have a couple of questions, does the length of time to temper change due to thickness? I assume the only way to really tell if it is tempered is by the file test. I assume an outdoor gas grill will work provided you can get it up to temp and hold that temp for a long enough period of time.
Great tutorial.
Thanks
I would think so if its very thick like 1/2 inch or above
I dont change the time I temper for knife thickness steel .
i suppose a gas grill would work.
just dont rely on the grill thermometer.use more than 1 temperature measuring device.
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When tempering you are actually slightly softening the steel so that it isn't brittle. I clean my knife well before tempering and try for a light straw color when done
[/quote
good advice.
any residual oil will give u a false reading if tempering by color.
ever notice how just a finger print turns blue while the rest of the blade is straw?
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OK. I picked up a bunch of old bastard mill files at garage sales just for this purpose and some old radial arm saw blades. Will the saw blades steel work also? I would assume that I could cut the profile for all of them and heat/temper them all at the same time and then work on them as I get time.
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Yes Kevin I have done that exact thing. A little acetone works wonders
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OK. I picked up a bunch of old bastard mill files at garage sales just for this purpose and some old radial arm saw blades. Will the saw blades steel work also? I would assume that I could cut the profile for all of them and heat/temper them all at the same time and then work on them as I get time.
I wouldn't temper the saw blades with the files.
I would almost wager that a sharp file will cut the saw blades as is.
in my experience saw steel is really unpredictable especially the stuff made in the last 20 years.
the old buzz rig or saw mill blades will make great knives if you have the tools and knowledge to anneal shape and reharden then temper.
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ttt.
for paulc
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Thanks Kevin