Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: ricktrojanowski on December 17, 2008, 09:43:48 pm
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Here are some pics of my first set of tonkin arrows. I intend on hunting with them for the remainder of the season so I had to go the glue on broadhead route. Hopefully next year I will knap some stone heads that are usable. I dyed them with Black Walnut dye, and used Waterlox for finish. The hen feathers are Canada Goose primaries, and the cock feather is Turkey. They are glued on as well as tied with Dogbane fiber. The paint is some powdered prim. pigments that I ordered. I wanted a more prim. look so no cresting lathe. So don't laugh at my sloppy freehand work. ;D
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They look deadly to me. I really like Grizz's. Now go stick something.
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................Nice work on them arras Rick................bob
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Aint nobody going to Laugh at them Rick....you did really good..........I would be very proud to have made a set that looked this nice...........
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Those are nice looking arrows Rick you did a great job!!
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Laugh! ??? ??? ???Are you nuts? Those look great!
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Nice Rick. I like your simple cresting. Pat
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those look great!!
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Bout 20 shades better than my first set! Looks great!
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Nice work.
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good job! those grizzlys will put a hurt'in on deer and hogs.
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Very nice work,I like them a lot. :)
Pappy
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Very nice indeed! The only thing missing is the "final" red finish from a good shot ;)
Tracy
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Those look purty sweet to me, and deadly.....Brian
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I'll only laugh with ya Rick never at ya :) Very nicely done hope ya make some meat with em.
How did the dogbane work, and did ya set it in glue?
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Great looking arrows. Personally, I like the hand-crested look much better than machine-crested-doesn't look like something that should have a brand name printed on it. Looks like you did a good job. How do they fly?
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I like them a bunch.
Tell us about the nocks. How were they made?
David
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Thanks for all the compliments. I see some amazing work you guys do and it inspires me.
Dana -the dogbane works easy. I can get some really long fibers so no splicing is needed. I wrapped it then coated it with a few coats of Titebond 3.
Hillbilly- I only shot them a little bit they flew nice. I think a lot nicer than parallel wood shafting. I managed to get all the broadhead arras withing 20 grains. One of the blunts came in light so I put that heavy 'bladed" blunt on it. The other came in heavy so I put the lighter hex blunt on it. At my range they all shoot close. ;D
RidgeRunner- To make the nocks I cut the cane about 3/4" above the node that I will be using for the base of the nock. Then I have 3 hacksaw blades taped together but off center. In other words one end has one blade. The opposite end has two blades. And the center has three blades. I start with the one go to the two then the three cutting down the center of the cane. Then finish up with small model files and sandpaper. I use a really small round file to make a "snap nock" by drilling it slowly into the base of the nock.
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Those look fantastic, and I like your hand cresting better anyway! Jim
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Those are great lookin' arrows Rick!!I like your custom cresting too!!
Merry Christmas, and God Bless
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Nice, Very nice.
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Just wondering if there is any indication of the spine of these tonkin arrows? I know, it is all relative, and if they work, then they work. But, my curiosity makes me ask. Thanks, piper
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Islandpiper-
Five of the seven spined about 55-58# the other two spined about 45#. When you cut them to length and then seperate them according to weight. The spines seem to come in pretty close if you match the weight.
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I'm impressed. That is stiffer than I would have figured. Guess I'll go looking for cane. there are a half dozen or so cane type plants local here. piper
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All cane does not spine like Tonkin at the same diameter. Good huntin' ;)....bob