Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kegan on December 26, 2008, 08:09:16 pm
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I've seen a couple really nice cherry bows here and there (like Tim Baker's and Orcbow's), but am still wary of it- so I never botherd cutting any. Today, however, we were getting firewood and cut a seven foot, straight, branchless section of cherry with very little sapwood on it. If I back it, would it be worth "stealing"? Could I manage to get a strong 75# longbow out of it?
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With a strong, lowish bend strength backing (such as rawhide), I think that it would be a good choice. Just make it wide enough for the draw weight.
Sean
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I have seen hundreds and hundreds of pieces of cherry over the last 10 years and I can tell you that this wood has a wide range of "flavors" or variations. My belief is that if you find a piece that has extra density and exceptionally straight/non-wavy grain, it will help greatly. I'm not sure that 75 pounds can be reached, but I did make a 58# one, with only 1 1/2 inches of set. I would add that making the bow extra long may also help. Good luck. Cherry is such pretty wood.
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Agree with orcbow 75# is asking to much of cherry.
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60 max .....is what I would shoot for on Cherry.....and thats with a nice Hickory ....or at least Rawhide Backing
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They cherry I have drying seems very light. The heartwood has turned a sorta peach color. I think this may be an exceptionally light piece of cherry though. Maybe if you toasted the heck outa the belly then backed it.
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I think there are so many other better woods to make a 75# bow. Don't get me wrong... cherry is good bow wood, and I've made several backed cherry bows, but not 75#. I think it's asking too much.
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If you can't achieve the poundage you want with the Cherry wood, don't let it go, do something with it and trade it. On here I'm sure you could get another stave of some wood that will make the #75 mark. Good luck with it.
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Okay- I guess I'll save it, but not for one of my bows. I've heard good things of backed cherry bows- quick and light- and I think I'd bea able to make a good bow for someone else with it. Thanks for the input :).
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Kegan, dont be a quitter ;D...We destroy bow building myths everyday here! (ofcourse I aint never built a cherry bow ;D) Give her a go....Brian
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woa wait now,if he wants to quit on it and give it to someone else. well i think you should let him and if you dont know who to give it to well
i did just stickup for ya now.
kegan just kidding there,like koan said give it a try.dont ya want to be a myth buster?
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The problem with Cherry is that it has low elasticity and will fret at the drop of a dime. I've made many longbows around 50# and you need to keep the belly flat. Not a wood I would recommend for a heavy draw weight. I even tried a sinew backing once to try and get a heavy draw weight and it still chrysaled
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What Marc said, except the only cherry I've tried is Black Cherry. The ones I've got to stay together were 1 3/4 to 2" wide at the fades and were under 40# backed with silk or rawhide.
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I think I'll save the stave and make a little beauty queen or two for someone. Use some of the gnarled hickory and elm I have for monster bows ;).
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orcbow says:
I would add that making the bow extra long may also help. Good luck
kegan says: get a strong 75# longbow out of it?
I thinking about a Holmegård, done the "wrong way" i.e. like the original. Me and my son cut a cherry in the garden today. What do you people think of that?
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According to the TBB2 cherry has a good elasticity in compression but is a little tension weak. I made a couple little bows outa some of the cherry I cut down and they always broke from back failure. Not saying anyone is wrong just 2 cents.
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Rosa, seems like I remember reading somewhere that after studying the original Holmegaard more, they decided that it wasn't wrong-side out. I think Comstock even said this in one of the later TBBs.
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I cut down a small cherry(8"dia) last summer ,I was suprised how hard it was (with the thumb nail test), compared with its weight, and very straight grain, but still have been unsure about how to best use it, so all the above is useful info.
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Ok Hillbilly, I 'm reading the TBBs for the second time, I'm now at page 98 in III. Become a little empty, had to read somthing else than bow stuff. But will continue studying soon. The "log" is not dry yet, it's tree days old, I painted the ends. I will do some work on it during the this weekend I hope.
What I try to say is: Thanks for the tip Hillbilly.
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If the log is in the round, you should at least split it in half so the moisture has a place to escape from.
I see you are from Europe. What type of cherry is your log? Pat
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I don't know what cherry it is. It's an old tree, I've lived in my house about 5 years. About the tree? I've seen pictures that indicate that the garden, and the tree has been around since the 70s.
The reason I cut some of it down, was because "the touch of jungle" was overwhelming. And then I have to try to make a bow ;) Theres not much good bow-wood around here, the best is Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) and is plenty of it, but I understand this is mediocre to.
But I think there have been hunters here, for at least 1000 (lot of viking history here) years it has been one of the best farming lands i Norway, but some people has been here before that we know that, of course yhere was fish... but someone had to make bows. I also try to explore the Sami-people bows, not very much is written - but some. I'm aware of Ragnar Insulander and know that Ivar Malde has written about the two-wood bows, i.e. Insulanders Ørbyhus-bow is the only "old" remaining sami-bow. Where I live is "south"-sami area, (not sure this is the correct term in english).
If anyone know about some other writers I would be very happy. I know that that PA has published one article by Insulander, does anyone have this one I pay for it. Edit: It is Primitive Archer", vol 4, issue 4, 1996. pdf-file is prefered, i'll pay the costs.