Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Hillbilly on March 16, 2009, 08:33:45 am
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I just finished up an ipe bow-first time I've used this wood. Seems like I vaguely remember somebody saying that Tru-oil doesn't work well with ipe, or am I just imagining it? Would I be better off with Tru-oil or spray spar urethane?
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Hi steve. I am really liking teak oil for a finish,though i haven't tried it on ipe.it is thinner than tru oil and is for dense oily woods tom
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Steve, you can use shellac first then put down any finish you wish.
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I think it was Jesse that didn't have good luck with tru oil, said it didn't dry and same with oil based varnish.
I believe he use a water based finish on the two ipe/ boo bows he just posted.
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Put on a good layer of super glue,let it dry, and sand it off. Then try the truoil.
I use t-bird and have never found a wood that it wouldn't cover.
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Tung oil has worked well for me. I haven't tried any other finish (on ipe), though. The shellac spit coat is a good idea....I might try that myself.
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Thanks, guys.
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tongue oil for me also,i hand rub in the first few light coats,usually dries in a few hours.
then the last 2 coats i leave a little heavier and dont rub in and it leaves a beautiful finish,to shiny for most folks when they hunt.
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I used linseed oil, wich I applied with 600grit sandpaper, it worked really well for me!
Nick
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Mini wax wipe on poly!!!!
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Ive used just spar urethane and depending on the ipe sometimes it can take literally 3 weeks for the first coat to dry. If you use shellac first make sure its wax free shellac. On the last bow I made I used wax free shellac one coat then water based spar urethane / varathane. Seems to be holding up great and I was able to finish it in one day.
I had problems with tru oil but I may have applied it to thick.
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The wipe on poly takes about 8-10 hours to dry.
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David Knight can set you up. I think he uses laquer sanding primer then sprays on laquer finish after that. I wipe it down with acetone first. The wood is so oily, it doesn't need much more than a good waxing. Is that the stave I gave you? lets see some pictures.
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I prefer the wipe on poly myself, in a satin finish.
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Jesse has the wright Idea!! wipe on poly wont dry somtimes for weeks!! sanding sealer then poly is the way I go about it..
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I use four layers of shellac as a primary coat, then tung oil.
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I put 5 coats of wipe on poly on my Ipe over the course of 3 days!!!!!The humidity determines how long it takes to dry!!!!!
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Thanks again, guys. Eddie, this is one I got from David, but I've got the one you gave me worked down and ready to glue up. Just haven't had time to do much lately. I'll post some pics in a few days when I get it finished.
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When I use a wipe on poly, I'm rubbing it dry with a clean t shirt a few seconds after applying it, and getting a nice shine. Mineral Oil is often applied first, or used by itself, and will waterproof your bow if you get it burnished. Plus it looks great, and you can drink it if you are constipated... ;D
I have used most of what is posted here, and they all work fine. I think humidity affects some of these finishes and why I prefer the ones I can wipe off and get dry quickly.