Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: JackCrafty on March 23, 2009, 02:57:49 pm
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Recently I was asked to show pics of my stone tools for making bows but since Rick has already done a stone age bow build-a-long (Stone Age Witch Hazel) I guess I'll do a stone age arrow build-a-long. I don't really have a set of stone tools for making bows anyway.....I just use whatever rock chips will work. Arrow making is a bit more detail oriented and I do have a few specialized arrow tools in my stone-age toolbox.
So, without further ado (and since I don't have anything else on my plate right now .... ::) ), here goes:
Here are my tools.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/001.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/020.jpg)
The tools are fire, chert scrapers (Georgetown flint in this case), mulberry arrow straighteners, buckskin strips (for wrapping scrapers), and sandstone polishers/shapers. I didn't show the fire-making kit or the hammersones/pressure flakers because they are only indirectly involved. Besides, my fire maker is a Bick lighter. ;D
(NOTE: I took over three hundred pictures this weekend and I won't be able to post this whole build-along today. I'll post as many pics as my lunch breaks allow.)
Privet shoot.
The bark has been scraped off and it has been seasoned for several months and is completely dry.
That's important because the scraping and sanding does not work well with a green shoot (except for the removal of the bark).
There's still a little bark left on the ends, to help prevent checking, and there's several knots.
The shaft has no drastic bends...only gentle curves. That's also important: less chance of breakage while straightening.
I do not pre-straighten my shoots and I do not tie them in bundles while they are drying.
They are air-dried in a dark place.....laying down.
If space is limited, I will stack them on top of eachother.
In my experience, it has been a waste of time to mess with the shoots before they are completely dry. :-\
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/004.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/005.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/007.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/008.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/009.jpg)
Straightening the privet shaft.
I don't use any grease.....just plain and dry.
If I scorch the wood, then I know that I'm applying too much heat.
I heat the convex side of the curves.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/010.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/011.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/012.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/014.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/015.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/018.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/013.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/017.jpg)
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For those who hate to be kept in suspense, here is the finished arrow:
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/291.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/294.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/295.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/296.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/297.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/298.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/250.jpg)
I'll be posting the rest of the pics all this week as time allows.
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AWWW Man u mean I gotta wait.. ..
Nice arrow.... I want more.... right now!
Cant wait to see the rest. thanks for the build along.
N1
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That's some real sweet work.What did you set the point with?
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Choosing a good scraper.
The best scrapers have a 90o edge.
The really thin edges become jagged an leave striations on the wood (not good).
A 90o edge is very strong and holds up well even when scraping very hard wood.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/021.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/022.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/023.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/024.jpg)
Once a good scraper is found, I wrap with buckskin to protect my hand from sharp edges.
It also helps to reduce fatigue and finger cramp.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/029.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/030.jpg)
I scrape off the remaining bark and smooth down the knots.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/033.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/034.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/037.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/038.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/040.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/041.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/043.jpg)
Sanding down the knots gives the best results but it's slow.
So I cut the remaining bumps off with a sharp chip.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/045.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/046.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/047.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/048.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/050.jpg)
A view of the remaining knots.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/052.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/057.jpg)
After cutting a few, you can see the wear on the side of the stone chip.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/055.jpg)
Then the cuts are sanded smooth.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/058.jpg)
There is a bit of tearing of the wood with the stone cutter, so the sanding can't smooth it down completely. That's why sanding alone is better.
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Thanks N2. :)
Timo, the point is set with pine pitch (brewer's pitch) and wraped with deer sinew.
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I guess this is a good time to describe a tool I copied from several references I've seen on Native American arrow "smoothers".
It is made of two pieces of sandstone with a channel down the centerline of each piece.
It is assumed that the arrow shoot was sanded smooth with this tool.
From my experience, this tool is better used as a "small bump and ridge remover".
Sanding the shoot with this tool is painfully slow.....and it quickly gets the wood too hot and gets clogged up with the heated dust.
It is great as a final finish tool but not very useful in the initial stages.
I find it easier to sand down knots with the rounded back of this tool than with the channel down the middle.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/025.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/026.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/028.jpg)
That slight depression on the edge of one of the pieces is for sanding the nock.....which I'll show later.
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Pat- Great buildalong. It makes me want to get working on the Stone age bow again. Thanks for sharing.
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Cool! Can't wait to see more of that bow Rick.... ;D
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Next I prep a flat sanding stone by producing a layer of grit on the surface.
I rub a smaller piece of sandstone over the whole surface.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/062.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/063.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/064.jpg)
I taper the front (first 5" or so) of the arrow slightly.
I apply gentle pressure and rub diagonally in relation to the arrow shaft.
If I rub so that the scratches are in line with the shaft, it takes too long.
If I rub perpendicular to the shaft, it's faster, but the scratch marks are hard to remove.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/065.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/066.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/067.jpg)
I round off the tip with a rough piece of sandstone.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/069.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/071.jpg)
Then I flatten the nock end by using a circular motion on a flat, rough stone.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/073.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/075.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/078.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/079.jpg)
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Next, I shape the nock. It will be a "swallowtail" type nock.
I am using the same stone that I used to remove the knot bumps on the shaft.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/081.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/082.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/083.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/084.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/085.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/086.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/089.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/090.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/092.jpg)
Now I switch back to scraping.....tapering the shaft toward the nock.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/093.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/094.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/095.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/097.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/099.jpg)
The first scraper is getting dull.....so I switch to a sharper stone flake for more aggressive wood removal.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/100.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/103.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/105.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/104.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/106.jpg)
Then back to sanding for final shaping.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/107.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/109.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/110.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/111.jpg)
Inspection and more shaping/tapering....
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/113.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/114.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/115.jpg)
Then some sanding with the "smoother".
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/119.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/120.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/121.jpg)
Then sanding the nock.
I roll the shaft against my leg to spin the shaft as I shape it.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/131.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/132.jpg)
The nock is placed into the depression on the side of the smoother.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/133.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/134.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/135.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/136.jpg)
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man, wish i could find some flint around my house >.> all i can find is crappy shale, broken bottles and empty bags, i live next to an eroding hill, but i got a creek down there and a river that the creek flows into :P
Good job man, wish i had that kind of talent
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Hawkeyes, the broken glass works well for scrapers. And you can use pieces of concrete instead of sandstone. :)
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Cutting the nock.
First with a piece of chert.
Then with piece of sandstone.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/142.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/143.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/146.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/148.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/150.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/152.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/153.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/154.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/155.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/159.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/160.jpg)
Then shaping the sides of the nock with the flat part of the sandstone chip.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/163.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/164.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/165.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09/166.jpg)
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Installing the arrowhead.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/168.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/170.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/171.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/172.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/174.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/175.jpg)
I switch to chert for final shaping of the arrowhead socket.
The shaping is more "carving" than sanding...being very carful not to split the wood or break the thin edge of the chert.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/176.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/180.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/182.jpg)
The socket is then coated with melted pine pitch and the arrowhead inserted.
Excess pitch is removed and the entire tip is heated slightly over the fire to spread the pitch evenly.
Care must be taken as the stone gets hot pretty quick (and stays hot).
It's easy to lose the arrowhead in the fire.... ::)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/185.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/187.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/189.jpg)
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Wrapping the point with sinew & fish glue.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/199.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/200.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/201.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/251.jpg)
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The feathers.
Wild turkey...."jake" tails.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/204.jpg)
I used a split limb of juniper for a cutting board, bark removed, of course.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/208.jpg)
Splitting the feathers.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/209.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/210.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/212.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/213.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/214.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/215.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/216.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/217.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/218.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/219.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/221.jpg)
Shaving down the quill.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/222.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/223.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/225.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/226.jpg)
Sanding down high spots.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/233.jpg)
Cutting the vanes.
This requires some finesse and is harder than it looks.
(It's a two handed operation but I'm using my left hand to hold the camera.)
With my left index finger, I hold down each segment as I cut.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/232.jpg)
Repeat.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/235.jpg)
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Great build along! Great pictures too! Love it!
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Excellent Build-a-Long!! 8) Beautiful arrows and your stone-age tools are great. How did you make your "smoother"? Thanks for sharing your incredible knowledge and talent. Joe H
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Thanks Billy. :)
Thanks Staver. I made the smoother out of two slabs of sandstone. It's easy to break the sandstone and shape it with a hammerstone....kinda like knapping. After I got the rough shape, I ground them down by rubbing them on the concrete pad next to my workshop. ;D
I made the grove down the center with a spall of agate.....by scraping and scraping until the channel was shaped like a "V". Then I used a piece of sanstone to make the channel "U" shaped.
It took me about 1-1/2" hours (and a lot of elbow grease) to make the two pieces.
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WOW!!!
Thanks for the build along!
I found it very informative and entertaining, the pics were great.
I was especially impressed with the job you did straightening the shaft.
The final result was a work of art!
Kevin
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Thanks Buffalogobbler. :)
Painting the shafts.
I cut a pampas grass stalk and split it into quarters.
The pith was thick and spongy....so I knew it work work well for a paintbrush.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/pampasgrass.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/238.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/237.jpg)
I used homemade watercolors made with fish glue mixed with natural pigments (red & yellow ochre and lamp black).
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/239.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/241.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/244.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/246.jpg)
I painted both the front and rear of the shaft with the same design.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/247.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/249.jpg)
Then I cut three shaft grooves using an arrowhead preform.
Perhaps in ancient times the grooves were made with a "special" stone point for good luck?
Anyway, this was perhaps the hardest part of the contruction process....I definitely need to find an easier way to do this.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/258.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/262.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/263.jpg)
Smoothing with my fingernail.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/265.jpg)
Then with the smoother.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/267.jpg)
And finally with an antler burnisher followed by rubbing with buckskin.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/269.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/270.jpg)
Then a coat of pine pitch...heated and spread evenly.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/272.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/273.jpg)
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NIce job. You probably got one done before I could using a drill, sandpaper, rasps, heat gun, etc.
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Thanks... :) but I'm not that fast. It took me all day to make that arrow. I guess it would be faster if I made several at a time....but I don't think I could make more than 3 in an 8 hour period.
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Outstanding Job with your arrows!! 8) I really like the finish with the pine pitch. What are your steps in preparing and applying the pitch? Thanks a million for sharing your work!! Simply outastanding!! Joe H
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Thanks Joe. I should have taken more pictures of the process of applying the pine pitch (brewer's pitch)....but I didn't want to get the camera sticky by accident (it's a real hassle to remove).
If you set the pitch close to the fire, it melts and gets runny. I just grab some with a stick and dab it over the paint. It's not pretty...the pitch cools fast and gets stringy....it's kinda like working with a combination of spider webs and maple syrup. Anyway, once I get some on the shaft, I just hold it close to the heat and when it gets runny again, I roll the shaft until the pitch covers the paint completely. I use the stick to spread the pitch around or blow on the pitch to spread it, if needed.
The only thing I don't like about pitch is that it picks up dirt really quick (not to mention hairs, dust, and small insects). This one is a wall hanger, so it doesn't matter....but if I were to make an arrow for hunting I would probably put beeswax over the paint. It doesn't look as nice as the pitch, though.
I need to try using animal fat. I've been hesitating because I'm afraid the fat might work its way into the sinew wrappings and loosen them. ???
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Thanks jackcrafty! ;D ;D ;D 8)
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Fletching.
I soaked the feathers while I was painting the shaft.
After applying the pitch, and letting it cool, the arrow is ready for the fletching.
Without the pitch, water from the feathers would make the paint run.
The rear ends of the feathers are trimmed back about 1/2".
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/274.jpg)
Then fastened with a wrapping of deer sinew & fish glue.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/275.jpg)
Then folded forward.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/276.jpg)
The front of the feathers are wrapped, fletching pulled tight, and finished off with a little more sinew.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/277.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/278.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/297.jpg)
Then the feathers are smoothed back into shape using a little heat from the fire and more water.
The stiffer the feather, the longer this takes. Soft feathers are shaped easily....that's why I usually use tail feathers.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/282.jpg)
Then I burn the feathers to shape with a hot stick.
I keep the end glowing hot by blowing on it....if there is no wind.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/284.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/285.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/286.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/287.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/288.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/290.jpg)
The End. :)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/3-22-09b/299.jpg)
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Awesome build along Patrick, so do you need my address ;D
One question why soak the feathers? I asume its to soften the quaill?
Thanks for taking the time to do this but next time take a few more pictures eh ;) :D
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:D
Thanks Dana.
I soak the feathers for two reasons: to soften the quill so it becomes more flexible, and to expand the feather to its greatest size. As the feather dries it shrinks....and pulls itself tight against the shaft. Of course, if you glue the feathers down you don't need to worry about any of this.
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Thats amazing Jack Crafty
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Really cool stuff! Thanks for taking the time.
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amazing what a beautiful and precise arrow can be made with the simplest of tools and human perseverance. Great job!
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Thanks for the compliments guys. :)
I'm thinking about adding a few more tools to my primitive toolbox...like a weight scale, a bone saw, and a stone drill. If time allows, I'll probably do a build-along on the tools as well as another arrow. I really enjoy working with the simple stone-age tools.
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Awsome build along, I just skimmed over it but will read in detail and copy your techniques. Thanks also for your sinue string build along, I followed along and got one done. Couldn't have done it with out ya. I will probably be in west Texas before too long on a job, might give you a shout. Don't know any places to hunt hogs, sheep or goats do you? Was hoping to get in a hunt while in your area. Again thanks for a wealth of info. Kenneth
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You're welcome. Glad you liked the build-along. :)
By all means stop by if you're in West Texas! As for hunting, there's plenty if you're a rancher....there's nada if you're a regular working guy. The only way I can hunt (without paying a month's salary to a rancher) is by invitation. I get one about every 5 years....mostly from a rich friend of a friend. Texas is funny that way.
Anyway, if you don't mind sitting around a campfire, working on primitive stuff, and watching kids bounce around the back yard....you're welcome anytime.
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awesome arrow!
thanks for your great build-along.
i once tried on a privet, but soon gave up. even with modern tools...
thomas
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very cool ! very, very cool!!!!
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Patrick, as usual very nice.
thanks for showing,
Donnie
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Patrick, yea I was raised id Texas and realize it is a pay to hunt proposition. Was just hoping to find a place that was fairly reasonable for a weekend hunt for ferral hogs or whatever. Am going to try and get up with Curtis Keller AKA Seventh Age Bowhunting. Will probably be in the Pecos area in a week or two, If I have time would love to see some of your cool stuff. Kenneth
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Sounds good Kenneth. :)
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Patrick
Awesome buildalong. That is probably the nicest arrow I have seen. I really like the paintbrush idea. Thanks for sharing all of that information. I hope to use some of it soon.
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A fantastic piece of work. I would be crying if I lost one of those while out shooting though :-\ As said by others, it is amazing how straight the shaft was when you had processed it. Oh, and boy is this gonna screw up archaeology in the future - stone points, knives and spear points all around your area, along with the remains of primitive bows and arrows! I can imagine the puzzled looks already...... ;D
Keep up the build-alongs - they are so informative.
//Bob
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Wow Pat! that's all I can say is WOW ;D. A superb build along and awesome end product - hm,hm,hm..
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Thanks guys.
Bob, yeah, I'm not going to be shooting this one. ;)
Paul, the arrowhead I used was a little thick....but I'm getting better at it....and I've been using those Ishi sticks you made as often as I can.
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I'll say your getting better - that's a fine looking point. Wish I'd had time to make ya some better Ishi's, I suppose those will do in a pinch though.
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I'm gonna have to start doin all my arrows like this, they're much nicer looking than all mine that I've used modern tools for!
Congratulations on some beautiful arrows.
Muina
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Thanks Muina. :)
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Great build along awesome looking arrows! Ireally like your arrow straitening tools I'll have to add that to my tool box for sure beats doing by hand with a glove. Keep up the great work. Thanks Leroy
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beautiful work. love to see the primitve arrows. Thanks for the build along vry informative and helpful.
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Thanks guys. :)
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Most Excellent instruction, Like that technique Thanks.PK :)
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You're welcome PK. :)
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Thanks so much for sharing your skill and knowledge. Really enjoyed the build along as it was very well done! Joe
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Thanks Joe, glad you liked it. :)
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Now that was cool! Thanks for the tutorial!!!!
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Thanks David! Glad you liked it. :)
Hmmmm....did you not see this arrow at the classic? I must be slipping....
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Absolutely fantastic out come given the circumstances, did you create that sandstone sander with the space for the shaft yourself?
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Thanks Emperor......Yes, I made it myself out of sandstone. I ground down the two halves on the concrete pad next to my shop. I made the grooves with a series of chert flakes, starting with a sharp flake then progressing to "fatter" flakes until I was able to finish off with a rounded piece of sandstone.
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Very impressive. Nice work.
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Very nice thread, these pictures illustrate what I have always taken for granted-that the bow really is a stone age weapon
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Amazing! Great to see things from start to finish, your work is so precise, an excellent lesson and a beautifull arrow.
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That was great,don't know how I missed this before,Looks like the arrow you signed for me at the Classic,it is in a very special place.Thanks. :)
Pappy
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I wish I had more time to make these "stone tool" items. I appreciate the compliments. Thanks guys. :)
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Bringing this thread up from way back... ;)
I get this build along stuck in my head every time I look at the arrow shafts I have and the pile of Canada goose feathers shoved in a bag under my bed. Finally made a blatant copy; took two days with steel tools, sandpaper and a pair of scissors. Looks ridiculously crude compared to yours. :-\
Great looking arrows, very informative build along. Jackcrafty is the king.
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Thanks Dauntless! My ego thanks you too. ;D
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I really like how you fixed that arrow head on there. It looks like the wood is all behind the point with nothing sticking out on the sides. This is inspiring.
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Yep, if you make the arrowhead as thick as the tip of the arrow shaft, you can put all the wood behind the arrowhead.
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Amazing...
Pat, I've gone through your process, amazed at the tools and the technique you use. I just LOVE the pic of the shaft after straightening!! I'm almost seduced over to the Stone Side after seeing what's capable. We've got so much privet in Ireland, I think I'll start up a "hedge-trimming" business... ;)
Thoroughly impressed here!
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Thanks Hatch!
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Great build allong! Well done as always!!!
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Very nice. Love the fletching, looks amazing.
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Of all the lurking I have done this how-to article stands out as the one I have come back to time and time again. Your steps are so easily described with great photographs that it makes it look easy, which is a farse! You have inspired me though, my feather collection is coming along, red osier is curing, and I'm chipping away at my first bow, slowly but surely.
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Thanks Mallorn! Glad you liked this. :)
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Wow :D This is really cool! The fact I use only VERY VERY basic tools, a.k.a A small knife a piece of rock, and and old 150 grit sandpaper makes me feel a lot better about myself good job :D
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Thank you for the great build-a-long. Great craftsmanship. John
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Thanks John. I'm glad to see that this old thread is still getting some use. :)
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Very nicely done.
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Great job!!! Love the YouTube channel!!!!!
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Very impressive! Make a few of those and you'll never want to miss a shot I bet!