Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Flintknapping => Topic started by: Timo on March 29, 2009, 09:49:56 am
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I copied this from another site,and added the links to help out a bit. This is perty much the way I built mine.I'll take some pics later for those in need.
Kiln info
If you wanted to use modern technology. Here is the best way to cook rock cheap save $$$$$ It is easy to make your own kiln..
1. buy an old broken or working crafts kiln ... mine cost $25... strip all wires and controls..We are switching to 120v
2. buy a Robert Shaw #55-135 infinite switch $25-$50 shop around appliance stores a friend gets them for $25, other places tried to charge like $45 near my house...
3. buy a 3-5lb spool of stainless steal .035 mig welding wire Mine cost $12.00 at a welding supply. Farm stores charge a little more.
Take the SS mig wire secure one end, wrap and tape, and spin a 1/4 X 3 ft dowel rod(anything round and strong) on a variable speed drill coiling the wire tightly... Careful it works best with 2 people but it can be done by yourself, make a jig. Take an OHM meter( I got my digital at Harbor freight for $9) and measure enough spun wire for a OHM reading of about 16.5 +or- 1. Caution make sure you stretch the coil enough to spread the coils away from each other for a proper reading. Its approx 80 ft. of wire I think, just roll plenty and make sure you get the 16.5 Ohm reading....
Place the new coil in the crafts kiln in the firebrick slots if you need to secure it, cut little pieces of SS wire and use for pins to hold in the groves.. straighten the coils ends and pass through firebrick, into the old junction box area.. put female crimp connectors on the end of the coils.. They should match the size of the 2 male connectors on the Robert Shaw switch that are labeled for the coil, then connect the coil...
Next find an old heavy plug and electric cord, for your power supply. Cut it off anything( I had an heavy old ext. cord) and make a 4-5ft pig tail or make your own if you wish.. Put on the female crimp connectors according to the male plug size, and attach to the RS switch were labeled "power supply" I always use the gold colored plug for the hot+.
I bent the coil wires and attached the switch in the old box where nothing touched and was stable. I then found some old expanded wire and BBQ grill grates that worked for a liner to protect any hot rocks. I just bent them around the inside and bottom with a piece on top....
Your now ready to cook rock at perfectly controlled temps, with proper drying, and hold times and it will run cheap, and long........ All done easily for under $80 and can be made in 2 hours by anyone almost.
My 11yr old son loved the project, also to his classmates he is like a nuclear engineer now when he talks
Much of this info was passed to me by my friend James Howell. The Arkansas he haw Glass man, a featured calendar artist . It works great
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Good Info Timo....
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I think I understand. Pics would help. I wanna try this mostly cause you change it over to 120V.
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really basic Richard....what you are doing is taking the SS Wire...wrapping it around the Dowel to make a New Heating Coil....then stretch it out so it doesn't ground against itself....Ohm it out ....and cut to length to get the Proper Resistance to conduct the proper Heat....then wire it in to the Thermostatic Switch....voila...You have a 110 volt Hot Box!!
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Here is a pic of my big kiln that I cut down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/kiln002.jpg)
Inside, showing the expanded metal to keep the fire brick from getting torn up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/kiln003.jpg)
The fire brick inside a ceramic kiln will be grooved to hold the coil wire.You have to remove all the old and replace it with the stainless steal coil. Here is a pic to show you what it looks like. The brick inside of a ceramic kiln is very light weight, unlike what is used in a traditional fireplace, which is very heavy. There is a place in St.Louis that sells the stuff, but I've never checked up on it. They make a high temp caulk that I used to glue the bricks together. It works perty well. If you buy the regular morter be prepared to by a gallon and it is expensive.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/kiln004.jpg)
I'll have to get some time to take pics of all the other stuff.It may be some time before I can get that done.
Here is what I made with the left overs from my big kiln.I found this stainless steal box and just layered it with firebrick. It holds about a five gallon bucket of spalls.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/kiln.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/kiln001.jpg)
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They make a Product calle K-Wool that we have here in the Refinery I work at...they heating elements with it to stress releive the welds before putting the Lines into service...they heat them up to something like 1200 degrees...so I bet that stuff would work in a Kiln also....and it dont weigh any more that Owens Corning Pink Insulation does....it is pure Ceramic Spun Fibers
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Here is a pic what the wire should look like after you get it coiled.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/005-2.jpg)
Set your meter to ohms and touch the terminals to opposite ends,making sure that it is not touching anything else.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Timotoad/general/008.jpg)
It might take it a bit to get an accurate reading,be patient. If it's to high,cut a bit off and check again. Keep cutting and checking until you get the required ohms. Then you are ready to install and wire up the switch.
you can use plaster o paris or water putty to bed the coil in the fire brick. I think the tut reads to set it with small wires. Whatever you need to keep it in the groove and away from any other metal.
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Looks good Tim. keith
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Looks easy enough, Any suggestions on finding a non working kiln.
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Check with any thing that has to do with crafts. Senior citizens org,hanicapped org,disabled,etc.Those that are state funded sometimes get up grades, so it's a good place to look.Also ,of course ceramic shops.
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If anyone was really interested in Building one of these....I drove by a Dumpster in the Refinery Today....and seen about twelve rolls of wire in it....they have to throw the stuff away when it reaches it's shelf date....whether it has been opened or not....just a thought....it may be gone before I get an answer anyways....they empty them quite often
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i do!!!! i've got some materials now and will look for others later.
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I will try to grab a Spool tomorrow....Also I don't know if it is Stainless Steel or Chrome....or Carbon....will have to see tomorrow...I just seen it....and thought of this thread!! Anyways....if it will work....you pay shipping....and it's yours....or maybe I can haul it to the Classic....if I take my Car or Truck instead of the Bike
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sounds good let me no if it will work.
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Back up for cowboy.
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I found an old Welding Rod Oven at work that they threw out....it works too....the Rheostat goes to 550....that should be hot enough to cook rock ....eh?
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Should work Mike, may want to check the accuracy of the temp gauge though.
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Work well for some of that Texas rock Mike. Most Burlingtons needs to go 600-650, so ya might have to stick a butane torch in the side hole on occassion. ;D That is a cool looking thing, never seen one before. what is the heat source?
And like Dana said on the temp gauge
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Thanks Timo! I hadn't seen this before. Now I've got two kilns to work on. I'll start shopping for those parts soon :).
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Timo....thay have Electric Heating Elements just like in an Oven
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It's hot enough for coral and most jasper. Good find, Mike.
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Would anyone be interested in one?
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I'll probably be swinging through Amarillo in a few weeks ::) ;D.
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That would make a hecka'of mullet smoker.
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I'll probably be swinging through Amarillo in a few weeks ::) ;D.
You stop by with some nice looking Cody Style Flint Blades and some good Whiskey....and you just might walk away with a 700 dollar Rod Oven...... ;)
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How many you got?
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two....but I have to make sure that they both work
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Mike what voltage are they?
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Volts: 120V, 240V or 480V
Watts: 1000W
Thermostat: Dial Adjustable
Temperature: 150°- 550°F (65°- 288°C)
Insulation: 2" (5.08 cm) Thermal Insulating K-Wool
These are set up at 110V
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Be cheaper to run at 240 or 480 but 110 is much more convenient :)
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Them Cody's look pretty simple and what kind of whiskey do ya like ::). Taking the girls out to see the Grand Canyon - may give ya a holler while I'm up that way :).
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I checked on K-Wool insulation today. That stuff is a little pricey. Would be nice to have, gonna do some more lookin.
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Get an electrician to rewire it...can be run in any mode.....
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Them Cody's look pretty simple and what kind of whiskey do ya like ::). Taking the girls out to see the Grand Canyon - may give ya a holler while I'm up that way :).
Cowboy ...that Blade that you made me....that is the Shape that I really like....maybe not as thinck /....but that shape is really cool.....and it's Makers Mark....all the way!!!!!!!!
Ducosniffer.......I got the K-Wool too.............. :P.....and by the way...you know that glue (Duco) with F$%^ You up.......... >:D
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Shane has been useing duco for years....Explains alot! ;D
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Ha, yep blame it on the Duco! We may need to do some talking on that k-wool El Destructo. If nothing else, sounds like it would make your current kiln alot more efficient.
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Back up for Jesse. ;)
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Thanks Tim,
I think i can do this, i'v alrdy been zapped once so what the heck. ;)
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Check Craigslist I have seen a lot of used kilns go real cheap in my area. If you plan to cook a lot of rock invest in a computerized controller. You will pay for it real quick if your blowing up rock. If you get a controller there is nor reason to switch it to 120. there is no economic advantage to using 120 or 240. Volts x amps = kilowatts. I put a meter on my kiln and it doesn t use much electric, (With a controller), without a controller you will use more electric.
Steve
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yea caveman i priced the controllers they run about $700 bucks. thats a little outa my price range right now.
My big thing is getting this kiln working. I'll save money if i rewire the kiln to 110 because it would cost me more to pay an electrician to run a new wire from my breaker for a 220 outlet.
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Jess,
I got a controller from a guy on ebay I can find him for you, it only cost about 175 with all the parts and the program. You need an old pc (win, 95, 98 or xp) to run it and work the program,
Set it and forget it. Its the best thing I have ever done. I know many knappers have this setup and just love it.
steve
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Ramp-Soak-Temperature-Controller-Kiln-Ramp-PC-software-/260602089495?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cad185017
Check it out, Mark Bracken uses it I use it and many others have and love it. its not hard to put together.
Steve