Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: The Burnt Hill Archer on April 20, 2009, 09:51:25 pm
-
ok so i checked the MSDS for tru oil and it says it contains mostly miniral spirits (56%), modified oil (33%), and linseed oil (11%). would anybody have any idea what the modified oil would be? i can get boiled linseed oil pretty cheap, and have a bunch left over from when i used to do oil paintings. i also have an abundance of mineral spirits left over from the same. but as for the modified oil, im lost. any thoughts?
Phil
-
It's probably a secret formula, and being guarded with Colonel Sanders secret recipe. ;)
-
yeah i kinda figured. that colonel is a cocky bugger! (Pun very much intended) i was just hoping somebody with more smarts than me would know what the 3rd piece to the puzzle could possibly be. the only thing i have against using just boiled linseed oil is that it doesnt make the nice hard thick surface that you get with like tru oil and polly and such.
so maybe a little rephrasing...
does anybody know what else i could add to the mix to make it layer up, rather than just soak in?
Thanks!
Phil
-
Try using a little polyurethane that is oil based. Boiled linseed oil is actually a modified oil itself. Modification of oils is commonly a chemical modification nowadays.
-
There is likely a small resin component as well. Some companies sell a varnish oil which is very similar to tru-oil. You could try a mixture of Bioled linseed oil, mineral spirits and some melted pine pitch. That will give you a bit more build.
-
Could possibly be a dryer like Japan dryer that allows it to dry quicker.
-
I have been told that the other oil in it is tung oil but that wouldnt explain its hardening properties...Im bettin its shellac based..jmo...Brian
-
ok good ideas. and thanks for the info on modified oils Orcbow. i was kinda wonderin if it might be some kind os shelac. im painfully ignorant when it comes to finishes. all ive ever used was spar urethane, tru-oil, and bees wax.
i think its time for some expirementing....
thanks again guys!
Phil
-
Well let us know what you come up with.. ;)
-
I wonder if shellac is the other oil, it crusts up and gets flaky when old
VB
-
Shellac isn't an oil, I believe its made from beetles and denatured alcohol ???
-
Thats true Dana, but they're oily beetles, lol
VB
-
Surely it is not shellac, though shellac is a resin, and that's what you get (a resin) when you modify an oil. Boiled linseed oil used to be modified by heating it (hence the '"boiled"). But now it is treated with the "japan driers" which are toxic metal compounds like cadmium and a few other tasty ones. These chemicals speed up the natural drying process in which "cross-links" occur between certain molecules in the oil. This is what happens when an oil "dries". Certain oils such as tung oil will dry naturally, while others will not. Linseed oil is somewhere in the middle.
So really, try cutting polyurethane with mineral spirits, 1 to 1 or more, making it thinner. Apply with a rag and wipe off the excess. This is a useful finish for many things. Watco oil is a similar type of finish (called a "danish oil"). Also wipe-on poly is basically poly that has been cut with mineral spirits. Mixing in a little boiled linseed oil would probably just slow down the drying time.
-
I've read some stuff Jay Massey wrote about using a mixture of linseed oil and shellac as a bow finish. The way I see the Tru-oil deal, I can get a bottle already mixed up for five bucks at Wally World that will do several bows. :)
-
My local Wally had discontinued Tru-Oil, most of their ammo, and ALL THE ARCHERY STUFF!!!
You can still buy all the American Idol seasons on DVD, though.
piper
-
after doing many gun stocks before i got into archery,.. my fav finish is;....2-parts trueoil, 1 part shallack,...1 part japan hardener......
....slowly stir and applied with fingers vigerously......many coats!!!......one coat a day until done.......snake