Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Pat B on May 19, 2009, 11:01:31 pm
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About a month ago or so, Art Butner sent me 6, fletchless hill cane arrows with maple footing and self nocks. The cane is from along my driveway and Art likes to make arrows with it so I send him a bundle on occasion. These 6 unfletched arrows(with 2 others complete arrows) are what Art sent so I fletched them up this past weekend. When I was looking in my basement frig for feathers I found a set of wings from the same bird. I remover the first 10 flight feathers from each wing, picked the best 9 and made 3 sets of fletching from each wing; hence the red wrap and blue wrap. Blue is left, red is right. ;D I used my Jojan straight Multiflech and offset the jig slightly for both right and left wing feathers.
Art has been working on a new almost seamless and wrapless footing for these arrows and wanted me to give them a real test..." shoot at trees and rocks"..he said so they will be my primary arrows for the Hickory shoot this coming weekend. The way I shoot, we'll see just how tough they really are! >:D
Here are a few pics...
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Nice arrows, Pat. I'll post my six tomorrow, if it quits raining.
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Jeesh Pat! How the heck are you getting those hill cane shafts so straight? I broke three so far that where on the smaller side. Finaly got one fairly straight last night. HELP!!!
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Pat, those look good. I like the yaller fuzzy things, if you're shooting good at Hickory I'm shooting after you....;D
Tiller,it's not that hard to get cane perfectly straight after you get the hang of it. Straighten each internode area independantly just like it isn't connected to the rest of the shaft. After all the internodes are straight, heat the nodes and line them all up straight with each other. Doesn't take but a few minutes once you get the feel of it. I like to get them so that you can roll them across a table top with no wobbling. If you're breaking them, you're probably getting them too hot.
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David, I have a secret way of getting them this straight and since you are such a good friend, I will share it with you...I send the raw canes to Art Butner and he sends me straight arrows back! ;D
Like Steve said, start with the internodes and get them straight first, let them cool well and then go to the nodes. Be completely sure the cane has had time to cool before you start on the next step.
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Those are really nice looking arrows Pat.
Tracy
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Dang Pat dem are way to purty fer an ugly old cuss like you :D Better send em to me eh :D
Tiller be patient and gentle with the cane, ya gotta treat it like a lady :P
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A HA! Now we know!!!! ;D
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Pretty arrows! But try a little more traditional quiver. Thats my advice- it depends on you.
Regards Uwe
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Uwe, I use this quiver for hunting because it holds my arrows conveniently and quietly. For target shooting and 3D shooting I use a side stalker type quiver. I have never liked a back quiver or a Plains Indian style.
This was a bow quiver that I "traditionally" made into an over the shoulder side quiver! ;D
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Pat, I stumbled on that secret a few years back, also. ;D ;)
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B A utiful!
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Now, what is that fluf on the rear end of your arrows?
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Tiller, that's where he got his beard hung in the wrapping when he was tying the feathers on....;D
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Steve...that just sounds...SO... PAINFULL!!! :o
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David, that is to give Steve something to shoot at. ;D It is a tracer so I can see the arrow in flight and when it hits the target. When shot it lays down flat( still visible) but when it hits it "puffs" out for more visibility.
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Yep!..But, whats it made from. I'd like to try it out myself. :D
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please excuse my intervention.
they use rabbit fur sometimes... probably any soft fur will work
thomas
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David and Thomas, these tracers are rabbit fur. I buy rabbit zonkers from a fly tying shop and glue them on with fletch tape.
Thomas, any soft fur will work well and so will feathers like marabou.
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Thanks Pat!