Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Dane on January 06, 2007, 09:53:41 am
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I was wondering if anyone can address the topic of how you brace your bows, particularly in the tillering phase, and especially with higher weight bows. Honestly, this is one of my least favorite things to do.
If anyone can comment, I would appreciate it.
Dane
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Dane, with higher weight bows I use a stringer, most of the time the push pull method.
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I do the same as Dano. If I can't comfortably brace a bow with the push/pull method then I use a stringer. During the tillering process you want to stress the bow as little as possible so a stringer should probably be used. I don't always do it though. Pat
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I always do the step-through thing. A lot of people frown on it for some reason, but I've never had a problem. The push-pull thang feels awkward to me, not to mention dangerous.
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I used to use step-through method-dont anymore--now use a stringer all the time-its safer and easy for me at least-like Hillbilly never liked that pull-push thang !--------------------------------
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While making a bow I use a stringer because I am frequently stringing and unstringing. Otherwise I use the push pull. Jawge
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I use a stringer, this may sound unlikely but I've had issues with using the step through method, on bows that looked like the tiller was starting to be equal after stringing using the step through method the limb that was up seemed to look like it was taking more set, could it be that when you flex the limb to get the string loop on you're stressing it more than the lower limb?
VB
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I always use the step through method also. I make sure to put the pressure on the center of the riser. Like VB said I have put to much pressure on the upper, but by making sure the pressure is on the center of the riser not higher I have eliminated that problem. I don't understand the stringer thing though. Maybe some of you guys could explain yours a little more and a few pictures would help. Justin
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With those bows I can brace I use the push/pull method. I will on occasion use the step thorugh method but I don't really care for it. With those bows that are very heavy I use a jig I made for bracing
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Justin, A stringer is a long cord with a leather sleeve at each end. The tips of the bow goes in each sleeves, you stand on the center of the cord and pull up on the handle of the bow. This bends the bow evenly so you can slip the string over the top nock. Pat
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Thanks Pat, that method I have seen, but most of my strings have small enough loops that they wont fit over the limb, only the knock. That also eliminates the push pull method. I thought maybe Marc would post a picture of his jig, or anyone that has another method. Justin
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Justin
Here is a jig I made for bracing recurves. It works quite well for heavily reflexed recurves that are heavy draw weight. It's also usefull for testing the balance of the limbs for the first bracing because you can back the dowels off 1 hole at a time and slowly get the string to take the pressure of the limbs.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Marc-St-Louis/MSC%20Pics/Bracer2.jpg)
I have another jig that I made last year for longbows but the pictures are on my PC at home, where I'm not right now. I will post them when I get back home
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justin, make your own strings. Shape the nocks to fit your stringer. Jawge
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The more I learn the more I realize how little I know.
Could someone explain the push-pull method?
Thanks, Lowell
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Lowell, for an unbraced bow, you put the lower tip in the arch of your foot (I rest it on the sole of my shoe) with your right hand on the handle and your left hand under the upper string loop, you push sliding the string loop toward the tip and simotaniously pulling the handle puting equal pressure on both limbs. Simular to floor tillering. To unbrace just reverse these steps. Clear as mudd huh? ;D
BTW be real carefull with the upper limb it will smack ya in the head if you slip, and make sure the string loop is seated before you release.
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Lowell, Basically...with the lower limb against the instep of the right foot(for right handed), Right hand on the handle or just above it, you pull with the right hand while pushing the top limb away from you with the left hand and at the same time pushing the string up the limb until the top loop goes over the nock. It's easier to show than try to explain. Pat
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Lowell, the push-pull method is where you place the tip of your bow against the instep of your foot with the back facing you, put one hand in the middle and tug on it, and slide the string up toward the tip while pushing it away until your hand slips and the tip of the bow springs forward and gouges your eye out. This works especially well with static recurves. (see instructions below) ;D
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Yeah, that the way...but like everything else, concentrate on what you're doing and take it slow.
Steve is just trying to show off his new Photobucket . LOL
This can really be a concern when bracing a bow this way. If I have any doubt about bracing a bow this way,ie, too heavy or an unstable design, I'll use a stringer. Pat
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Thanks guys.
Hillbilly, After the demo by the stick figures, I can't wait to try it!!!!! LOL
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Hillbilly, I saw a guy with a recurve just the other day that looked just like that picture. Well he was a little skinnier than that. But it split his brow right open, about 30 stitches. I don't dare use that method because of all the people who have told me they have broken their finished bows by letting it slip.
George, I make my own strings, but I like to keep the loops just big enough to go over the nocks and I usually have little wood above the string grove. In fact that is part of the reason I don't like the push pull, I always push the string right off the top.
Marc, thanks, could you tell me a little about how you get the bow on it. Do you just hook the limb on one dowel and rest the handle on the center then push down on the other limb to get it under the dowel.
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I believe I have done it that way but didn't have a name (push- pull) for it. Being able to see the stick figure drawing made asking a stupid question worth it.
I tried it on a light pound bow and worked very good. I have 2 eyes yet but will keep trying with higher pound bows.
Thanks again, Lowell
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I am working on a 150# longbow right now and the only way I can brace it is to set it between two benched and kneel on the handle, have someone else slip on the string. I can do a very low brace by kneeling on the handle with the tip on my carpet, Steve
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I use an extra long string for tillering until it's worked enough to confidently brace it. But then, I tend to undershoot my target weight a lot.
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Sorry to get back to this so late, but thanks for all the input.
I have been using the push-pull method most all the time, without knowing it was called that. Can anyone explaine the stepthrough method?
That jig is pretty neat, Marc. I'd like to see the longbow one, when you can post it, of course.
I don't know about you guys, but I always feel a bit of trepedation when I brace a bow. Maybe that is healthy, like my fear of power tools. Not using them, but knowing what can happen at a table saw if my mind wanders a bit. Yuck.
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Dane- I use a table saw BUT I wear a pair of welders gloves to give me a split second---"hoy boy--"all power tools are very dangerous-like you said if you mind wanders plus they are loud !................
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Am I the only one who uses the knee on the handle method?
Dave
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I guess I'm backwards from everyone else, my push pull method is as follows:
I place my right hand on the handle, left hand on the back of the upper limb, with the lower limb tip on my shoe top. I then push against the handle with my right hand while simultaneously pulling the top limb with my left hand (lower plam against top limb back) and sliding the top string loop into the upper string groove of the bow using my index finger and thumb.
Greg
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I'm with ya Dave. I place one tip on the outside edge of my right foot. Then my left knee against the handle and my left hand along the top limb and slide it up as I apply pressure with my knee. Finally I use my right hand to put the loop on the nock. I've found it works best for me this way. Plus I feel safer if I do slip at least the bow is going away from me. Oh ya then after that I pull the bow to half draw and then full draw a few times each just to make sure I even everything out if I did stress one limb more than the other. Just one more way among a long list of ways. Ya'll have a good day. Mike
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What I do with the jig for recurves is hook one recurve under a dowel that is placed in the top hole of the jig. Then firmly grabbing the other limb at the recurve, firmly so that the bow doesn't twist around, I bend the other limb down to just past the matching hole on the other side and place the dowel in. I then just bend the limbs down to where I can brace the bow using the dowels to hold the limbs bent as I put the string on.
This is the jig I made for bracing very heavy longbows
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Thanks for the info Marc, Justin
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Dave, I use the same method on bows over 80#'s and 6'..Done a few over 100#'s, and prefer doing this over using a stringer on these bows since any material failure could be fatal :o I want those limbs flying away from me if something gives.
Rich
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AW-common' Rich-wheres your spirit of adventure-ha-ha-ha-ha---just kidding----bob
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What I do with the jig for recurves is hook one recurve under a dowel that is placed in the top hole of the jig. Then firmly grabbing the other limb at the recurve, firmly so that the bow doesn't twist around, I bend the other limb down to just past the matching hole on the other side and place the dowel in. I then just bend the limbs down to where I can brace the bow using the dowels to hold the limbs bent as I put the string on.
This is the jig I made for bracing very heavy longbows
Marc, could you explain how this jig works? I can't quite understand it...maybe it is too early in the morning? :) Thanks!
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First of all the longbow bracer has a 2x4 that spans across the 2 sides at the bottom, there's also a matching 2x4 at the other end but that's just to hold it together. This I use to screw the whole thing down a solid surface so it doesn't move when I use it. Then what I do is I hook the lower tip under the far end of the bracer, where you can see a half round cut out. Then I place the dowel between the string and the bow, the location of the dowel is approximately at the center of the bow. Then I simply put my weight on the upper limb and bend it down while sliding the string up till I can brace the bow. Very simple
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Thanks, Marc. I get it now. This might be exactly what I am looking for.
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Marc, do you put anything between the back of the bow and the jig to eliminate damage? Justin
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Justin
No I don't. The wood I used is nothing more than Spruce ply and Spruce is a very soft wood. I have not had any problems with the back being marked.
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This is how I do the push-pull. Lower limb nestled snugly into my left instep, left hand at the handle,
and my right fingers hold the upper string loop. I pull with the left hand and push with my right heel. I nestle the string into the nocks by feel. I am looking down at the ground. My face is out of the way. That's the way I do it. If you can't, use a stringer. I used to straddle the bow and use the step through until I was told what happened to one guy when the upper limb of his bow broke. Ouch! :)Jawge
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Jawge, I can vividly picture the results of such an accident, and since I don't want a career as a castrati, I think your advice is very good.
Dane
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Dane- I use a table saw BUT I wear a pair of welders gloves to give me a split second---"hoy boy--"all power tools are very dangerous-like you said if you mind wanders plus they are loud !................
Just a friendly warning from my own experience. Welding gloves can do more damage than good. I had gloves on while using a wood gouging wheel on a grinder and instead of nipping the end of one finger the glove got caught and I mangled 3 of them.
Tom
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I string like jawge except just the opposite I use right instep and pull with my right hand and push the string in with my left,I use a stringer while tillering.
Pappy
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I'm using a different method yet...right hand on handle with belly facing me, left hand on upper limb and holding string loop. I push the handle with my right hand and pull with the left while sliding the loop into the string notches.
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Greg's meathod is definitely unorthodox. I tried it at the Tennessee Classic and everybody kept telling me I was stringing my bow wrong. ??? Different is not wrong, and Greg is definitely different. ;D Justin
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Justin, now don't you go raining on my parade again! ;D
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Not at all Greg. I'm sure jawge would love to see your meathod too. If the limb tip slips from your hand you don't loose teeth or an eye. Justin
Hey Greg, I think I just figured out why you are the only guy from Tennessee with all his teeth. ;D
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Are those "summer teeth ?". Some are here an some are there . ;D....bob
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Being totally new to archery, Dan Pery had to instruct me on proper bow stringing too. He taught me the step through method.
I don't think anybody has described this yet.
first put the string on the bottom nock and place that tip either on your right foot or to the outside of the right foot.
Second, spread the bow and string and "step through" with your left foot, keep feet sholder width apart. (I find it moe efficient to slightly step back with my left foot.) slide your left hand up to the top tip while holding the upper loop in the fingers of your right hand.
Third, "sit back" on the handle while pulling with your left hand and bring the loop to the nock. Sitting on the handle should put even pressure on both limbs.
Randy
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That's the same thing I do.