Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: radius on July 26, 2009, 12:17:46 pm
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People still do this?
Does it have a significant effect on the durability of a bow?
TIA
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Yes, I do this and I'm sure it has an positive effect on the durability!
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the only bone i have here, i don't wanna use for that...shotglass do?
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Shotglass.....Hickory Spoon Handle....my favorite.....Long Shank Screwdriver Shaft..anything that is small...round....smooth and hard should work just fine to compress the Wood Cells..........JMO
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I sometimes burnish the back of some selfbows, mostly yew. It compresses the cells, and I believe makes it less likely to lift a splinter. I especially burnish the back of yew selfbows on which I haven't chased a single ring.
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Scott,
I got your PM but could not respond because your Inbox is full. So here is my answer:
It wouldn't hurt to burnish the back, but be careful because yew heartwood is very soft - don't overdo it. I often use a glass bottle for burnishing. If your stave has a lot of knots and you are not going to back it, I would keep the weight around 50# or less.
Gordon
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thanks for the hint, Gordon...i deleted a bunch of old messages! As for the draw weight, too late. It pulls ~58# at 28 right now. I've been doing a buildalong for it, but now i just have to bone it and get some oil on there and i'll post some pics in this section.
I picked up some 5/16 birch dowel to bone it with, and i'll use the rest to make a bow rack.
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Also, make sure whatever you're using to burnish with is perfectly smooth, otherwise you'll get gouges. I personally use a burnishing tool. It's used to burnish the edge of scrapers and tool blades. It's very smooth, and hard.
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I use an empty beer bottle and a good light source to see the spots I've missed.
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Also, make sure whatever you're using to burnish with is perfectly smooth, otherwise you'll get gouges. I personally use a burnishing tool. It's used to burnish the edge of scrapers and tool blades. It's very smooth, and hard.
I use the exact same tool; used bone before, but this is way better!
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ok so i just boned the thing and my shoulder is damn tired and i think it's good...next step: do it again
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i use a small mason jar. works real good.
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I burnish all my bows, back and belly, for three reasons really. First, it creates an exceptionally smooth finish that can't be matched by sanding alone. Next, I feel that it provides some protection against splinters raising. And finally, the compressed cells form a natural moisture barrier that serves as a second level of defense beneath whatever coating you wipe or spray on top. If you place a drop of water on the bare wood of an unburnished bow, you'll see that it soaks in on contact. Do the same thing on a burnished bow and the water will bead. Similarly, if you dye a burnished bow, the grain won't raise.
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thanks Adam! That's awesome advice. I did bone the thing, twice, and yeah it gets like glass, especially the knots...
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If you burnish a bow before staining the stain will not be absorbed. I used to burnish but don't anymore. I don't think it helps in holding a bow together. But it won't hurt. Jawge
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George, Are you referring just to true surface stains like Minwax? Not dyes, right? I use alcohol dyes like Rit and Fiebings exclusively (after burnishing). I haven't found the penetration of those, at least, to be affected by burnishing.
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