Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: ZanderPommo on August 04, 2009, 11:11:38 pm
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well i haven't posted a bow in quite awhile so here goes
i decided to play around with the holmgard design just to try something new, so im taking it easy on the specs
currently a tad over 64 '' ntn
going for 43# at #28 in
9 in tips 1/2 in wide
limbs are just over 1 1/2 in width and there is a 8in non bending handle
the tip underlays are bubinga and the handle is cocobolo--made from a redoak board
it is backed with cotton up to the base of the tips just b/c im nervous about so much bending in one place
(this was a board 2 days ago
so far its going great! only thing that concerns me is that its not even to full brace yet its got just under an inch of set after unbracing!!! (kiln dried board + 5 months in my room)??????????
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310642.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310642.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310646.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310649.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310650.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310651.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310652.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310652.jpg)
as always love this site-can't wait for advice (btw i know the tillers off this is just where i stopped today)
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well off to the rifle range tomorrow so might no make any more progress till friday
oh and heres another pic of the handle
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310643.jpg)
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If I was working on that bow, I would round off all those very square corners, before I lifted a splinter. From square and harsh, to round and smooth... that's my goal.
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If I was working on that bow, I would round off all those very square corners, before I lifted a splinter. From square and harsh, to round and smooth... that's my goal.
im with ya on that,i dont even brace a bow on a long string untill it is round and smooth
not to mention that if you round everything right away,it wont mess with the tiller later
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No, I wouldn't even brace a bow like that either.
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also, round and smooth won't catch or cut the string...
dude, find adb's holmegaard build along and read it carefully 500 times...that's the thing to do...
i love holmie's....best of luck...ur cotton backing kinda looks like a coat of beeswax!
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yeah the cotton is coated with tb3 so its dark
im going to round everything up on friday before i progress any further, i just usually rush it to brace first(i know i know) ::) ::) ;)
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that handle is UBER long, too...
google "dennis lavarenne holmegaard" and you will find a paper called Tillering the Holmegaard Bow.
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handle is 4 in for a grip and 1.5 in fades i don't see how i could have gone shorter?
so i suppose about 7 in
is the tiller bad?
i mean for the design?
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another pic i forgot to add
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P8310654.jpg)
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Stay off the fades and get it bending more in the outer limb, every inch of the working
limb has to do its share of work on a holmie. Take your time and have patience.
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thanks Dana
ill do that
is it just me or is it kind of hingy at the right fade in the last pic?????
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The bottom limb does appear to be bending right at the fade but pictures don't always tell the truth, if you get the fades
bending to much too soon you will have lots of string follow, so if in doubt stay off that area
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well that does make sense, ive already got almost an inch of follow just after unbracing
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You're rushin' it! Slow down. Proceed with thoughtful purpose.
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doing good, man. you see the flat spot in the lower limb, take care of that first thing...
my bad on the handle btw, i d k what i was thinking...like that wood...now "proceed with thoughtful purpose" and git er done!
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thanks radius
yeah the tillers a bit off cause i took it off the sander and strung it only after judging the thickness by eye, so i think im getting better ;D
im really having fun with this one
tomorrow imma round the back, refine the tiller, and get her to full brace(minimum)
im thinking of names, anybody got any ideas? my mom came up with cocobinga.(kinda has a ring :D)
get it? cocobolo & bubinga?????.............yeah, you fellas are bright, you got it
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okay well sorry for the delay folks, school and cross country have officially eaten all my spare time
got it tillered out today to 28 in and unfortunately it came in really really light, at 32#, itll make a great target bow though!
im gonna do the handle tomorrow and ill also be posting pics tomorrow
might also chrono it tomorrow iffin it aint raining
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Looks like you have way too much weight in the outer limbtips especially for the weight it came in at. Make them scary narrow and reduce the thickness till they just barler try to bend. That is how to keep the tips ultra light and also get the lever effect of the holmie. Use a short straight edge to check the tips for slight bending at full draw. The overall tiller looks pretty good. Kenneth
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thanks littlejohn
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well it sure ain't done but heres the progress.
sorry i couldn't post these yesterday.
im pretty happy with the tiller.
yeah imma pike it and heat temper it after i reduce the tips alot. i was thinking a half inch off each end??? also gonna heat temper it cause Manny said it works and thats all the convincing i need!
okay here we go (lots of pics!!!) (oh and sorry about the dust i never give it a chance to settle)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180664.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180668.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180669.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180672.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180673.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180675.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180676.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180678.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180680.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180686.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180687.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180689.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180690.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180691.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180692.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180695.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180698.jpg)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/ZanderPommo/P9180699.jpg)
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Yikes! You've got your arrow rest cut past center. I sure hope it holds up!
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it seems to be doing fine so far, shot it in yesterday.
the pic is decieving its less than 1mm past center
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Is there a system or formula for determining how deep an arrow shelf Can be cut for a given handle width, thickness, draw weight and shape?
William
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not that i know of, generally for a longbow its half or less and most recurves are totally center-shot
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well im less sick, and got some work done
ive piked the bow 3/4 of an in on each limb so 1 1/2 in. total
got some cool lookin nocks cut in, and with the piking done it went from 32# to 35# or 36#
ive just heat treated the belly and will unclamp it tomorrow(?????)
the belly looks a nice toasty light brown and the backing seems to be holding up fine, although i lined the back of the bow and tip/handle glue joints, which i think kept a significant amount of heat off the glue
i induced just under 3 1/2 of reflex, i hope it holds about 2''
ill check the tiller probably next weekend but ill hopefully post pics of the tips and heat tempering before then-tillering next weekend as to let the bow rehydrate, and also because sunday is my next small amount of free time
again thanks for all your help/suggestions folks! wouldn't be at this level without all of you to back me up
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Looking good so far.. ;)
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thanks David
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Looks real good. A nice even tiller. I'm wondering about that cut out, though. Are you finding that the fletching is hitting the bow with the curve sweeping in that direction? I like the look of the backing. Nice job.
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im sorry i dont quite understand the question, what cut? the arrow shelf?
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well sorry
it broke--developed chrysals.........major dissapointment
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man, that's a pity. i really liked it.
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dude,my guess is you dropped your cell phone alot
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it is my belief that once the weight was upped to about 45 lbs which is what it felt like, the design was a bit too narrow to handle that much stress.
i advise anyone trying to build one similar to this one make it 2 to 2 1/4 in wide limbs, i think if i had my bow would have survived
if i get a chance within the next couple weeks ill still try to post some pics
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Hey, sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. I had wondered about the cut out - in picture it appears like a convex sweep. I haven't really done many with a cut out, but I've made a couple with a concave sweep going down to the shelf. Was wondering if you found it made any difference with the arrow passing through.
Sorry about the break. Bummer.
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well, since the angle of the pic was so low, it looks to be more severely concave than it really was, which was very slight
no negative flight characteristics that i could notice, but a very concave shelf may obstruct your sight very slightly while shooting??
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So the limb failed, not the handle?
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it is my belief that once the weight was upped to about 45 lbs which is what it felt like, the design was a bit too narrow to handle that much stress.
i advise anyone trying to build one similar to this one make it 2 to 2 1/4 in wide limbs, i think if i had my bow would have survived
if i get a chance within the next couple weeks ill still try to post some pics
with 2" wide limbs only 14 or so " long, i just built a holmegaard pulling about 55# @ 28"
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l know this post is off the subject but judging by your pictures, you need to call T.A.P.S. because it appears to me your house is haunted!!! If you look closely you can see faces in some of those orbs ;D
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:o..... ::)
who ya gonna call!......
radius, yeah i think 2 '' wide is a better design, and i believe tim baker recomends a 1-7/8 width for an eliptical style tillered bow, which would suggest that a 2'' or perhaps even 2-1/4 in wide design to help handle the stress and give a bit more peace of mind