Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: hedgeapple on August 08, 2009, 01:07:03 pm
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Here goes nothing... I'm working on a 55" hickory d-bow. One limb is 15/16" bent to one side. I'm attempting my first steam straightening. Wish me luck. How much bend pass 15/16 should bend the limb to allow for it to creep back to it's original bend? I'm thinking 1 1/4.
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Is that 15/16" or 1 5/16". If 1 5/16" go just a little past straight and you should be OK. If it is 15/16", don't worry about straightening it. You can make that up after tiller by moving the handle or tips to one side or the other.
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not only that, you'll get an easy arrow side...once you get a string on, it'll be obvious where the top limb is and then you just tiller accordingly and get a bow with minimal paradox
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It's very narrow piece of wood 1 1/4" wide. I don't have much room to adjust. Yes it is 15/16. The sting center on the tips passes 1/4 inch to the left of the handle. That seems like alot to me. I could see the string eating my arm off every time I fired it.
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If the bow isn't completely tillered, try removing wood from the strong side and see if that doesn't bring the string closer into the handle.
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Pat B and radius, thanks so much for you suggestions. This limb has another issue that I didn't meantion. It has a woop-de-do in the same limb that has the bend. Being a beginning bow builder (this will be my 3rd bow), I'm not sure I'm skilled enough in tillering to address a bend and a woop-de-do. This bow will be kind challenging enough since it's only 55". So, I would prefer to work with as straight a piece of wood as possible. Please, don't think I"m poo-pooing your advice. If I didn't already have the steamer set up and the bow in it, I'm sure I'd give straightening it during the tillering process the ol' college try.
Now if there's a reason other than the added work involved with steaming and clapping, like maybe it will potential destroy the wood, then please let me know. I'll pull it out immediately.
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Steaming won't destroy the wood. Continue as you are going but after clamping allow a week for the wood to dry back out. If the back wasn't sealed before steaming do so as soon as the back feels dry to prevent possible checking(drying cracks).
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Thanks again, Pat. I was wondering if I should seal the wood.
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I like to seal with shellac if steaming already dry wood. Adding moisture to dry wood can cause checking when the wood re-dries. Shellac can take the heat and moisture you get with steaming.
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I straighten a lot of english longbows, by fileing the groove up to 1/8 of an inch. That would be the side , oppisite of the bend, looking down the string. Then remove some material from the side. The Idea is to remove or put enough strain sideway on the limb that it would bring it back to tiller.It usually works for me, however, I usually, straighten the stave when it is shaved to floor till... Then heat with a space heater or heatgun, depending on the bend. I reserve steam as a last resort. Just my opinion...
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I would just use dry heat,I do that all the time with Hickory ,just go about double what you want it to do and it should be close. :)
Pappy