Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: AKAPK on August 08, 2009, 01:29:55 pm
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Can ya share some Ideas on how you would Repair A tip overlay like this, I strunger up the second time and POP! , it's a booback.
I need to know if I can use TB3 or I have 2 ton Apoxy Never repaired such a narrow Tip Before. I have Antler and Cow Horn, the Bow is a Deep R&D. Thanks for any suggestions Don't want this Bow to go to waist,its 52# at 28" 64"NTN
Also need to know if about 1/3/4" is to high from center for The Arrow rest, did not seem to Pitch U/D when shooting it the first time.
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dont know how to fix your overlay issue,
but if it seems to shoot good with the arrow pass that high then i would say no,you could try lowering it to 1.25" and see how it shoots.
good luck pk peace,
tim
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Do you know what glue was used to attach the tip overlays? You can use TB glue, epoxy or super glue(gel) for overlays. Be sure the boo has had the rind removed and do a light sanding with fine sandpaper to prepare the surface.
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I would take it all off, flatten the surface and clue on a new overlay. I would use epoxy or superglue for that operation.
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It is pretty smooth underneath Looks to be super glued, I pretty sure it's the wood overlay that failed. as for the Arrow rest I never seen a bow With that Height of rest, thought maybe it was because of the deep deflex,Got me ??? I'll just tinker with it and Hope it doesn't bust my head. :) Just glad It did'nt do that to the person I got it from ;)
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It looks like you may have had two problems that lead to the failure. From the picture it appears that the overlay fractured along a ring (assuming it was wood). If you use wood make sure the overlay is edge-biased relative to the back. The other problem may be that the tip is too thin and is flexing slightly when strung. A small amount of flex can undermine the glue-line between the overlay and back. I slightly flair the last couple inches of my tips to keep them stiff and prevent that from happening. Of course that is not possible now so make the overlay a little longer and the taper between the limb and string grove smooth and gradual.
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Thanks For the Help All, knowing me I got on it right away. Sorry about the blurry images I used my scanner.The notch at the tip is for the Stringer or String Saver.
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AKAPK,
I hate to say this, but if that tip flexes at all the glue-line for the overlay pictured will likely fail at some point.
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AKAPK,
I hate to say this, but if that tip flexes at all the glue-line for the overlay pictured will likely fail at some point.
Yes, I'm affraid Gordon is right!
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well since I know your right, I will pike the bow at 2 " from the tips,that will give me 27"on each side of the fades. the riser is 10", that will give me a 64" tip to tip put different overlays more like a recurve glassback with string grooves, then I will cut the String noks at 1/2 " and that will leave me a bow that is 63" NTN. Instead of 28" Draw I will make it 26" which is closer to my draw, I should be able to get around the same weight as the bow was when I got it, I hope :)excepting if the tiller doesn't Change to much Whew! Major Project ::) Oh and then I need to Lower the Arrow rest to 1.25 from center ::) It will work 8)
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Another option would be to replace the existing overlay with one that is longer and more gradually tapered from the front edge to the string grove. If you make the overlay out of two contrasting laminations it will look really nice and will decrease the likely-hood that it will separate due to tip flex.
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Or a thin lamination a few inches long on the belly side of the tip would help stiffen it and keep the overlay from popping. Justin
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I think If I use horn instead that will help with anger managment :)Thanks Gordon and Justin. your Advice always works.
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PK, Take a razor blade and slide the tip overlay off and put another piece of fiddleback maple on and file it to match the other one. Or I can cut you two more pieces and send them to you. What did they do, run over the tip with a forklift?
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Also, set the brace height at 6 1/2 to 6 3/4". I have a match set of Tonkin arrows that were made for that bow that shot like darts out of it.
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Eddie ,Naw it was sticking out of the tube when I got it I think the Enviromental change made the Overlay expand and contract so the hook part of the over lay snapped off.
I did a complete overhaul and got it at what, 52@26 59NTN or 58@28 I piked it 2 inches on each end,put some elk skin for groove silencers, Horn layered Overlays Lowered the Arrow rest to 1.25 from center Put a Elk skin Grip on added A leather disc around the Compass and made a couple string for it. I also shot it about 50 times, let it set braced for a few hours to see if the Horn overlays would Pop,Killer Bow I'm tellin ya.
Not sure what the spine on the Arrows I used but at 10 yards there was no whatya callit, up-down pitching, withing 5" of center. I also re-colored the back put a couple coats of True oil on it.
Sorry about Changing it But I just couldn't resist( Artist in Me). Tiller is still good, I just don't have my camera anymore to show that, I used my scanner to get these pics. Thanks Eddie, its a real fast screamer.Now I just hope I don't rip The Cartilage. :)
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It looks good, Phillip. If the arrows fly good out of it I wouldn't change anything.
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I still called it Oatmeal 55@26" 60"NTN Aprox. Made this quiver and am using the arrows I got from Kegan meaasuring about 29" With points not sure of weight they just shoot straight and Accurate.
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