Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: kylerprochaska on August 11, 2009, 01:43:04 pm
-
Just want some opinions on which ring to chase for the back of my next bow...Im planning on recurving the tips. It will be 60" long with a slightly deflexed handle. Im going to be shooting for 50-60@28"...Thanks in advance
Ky
-
well what kind of wood is it? If it is osage, you want a thick, late growth ring underneath the bark and white sapwood. If it is a white wood like maple, hickory, or hophornbeam, you can just peel the bark and that will be the back of your bow. -josh
-
::) Sorry I was having trouble loading my pictures and yes it is osage
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I'd skip all those skinny ones. What's the other end look like?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/dlgren/indexphp.jpg)
-
yeah that's the ring I'd pick, too. I have tried chasing thinner rings before and it really will make you wanna throw your stave across the room when you get 95% of your stave done and then accidently cut through the ring you're chasing and have to chase it all the way back in the other direction. >:( <<<speaking from experience. -josh
-
Thats some ugly osage better send it to me ;D
Go for the first thick one :)
-
Oh yeah what was your nickname at the last Tennessee Classic DanaM? Something to do with wood if I remember correctly?
-
Da Wood Whore, but I'm also a Rock Whore >:D Most just call me the Damn Yooper :D
-
I would chase the first complete ring. It is good practice and if you cut through you can chase the next. The problem with going down too far is that if you cut through the ring a couple of times you don't have enough wood left for a bow.
-
practice,practice,go for instinct(aprox. 1500 reps) :) :) :)
chuck
-
Thanks guys...just thought I would get some second opinions, Dano to answer your question the other end looks almost identical to this one....the only bad part is that all those skinny rings equal to almost an inch of wood I have to remove before I can chase that ring....but I guess that's why we have 24 hours in a day :P
Ky
-
Thanks guys...just thought I would get some second opinions, Dano to answer your question the other end looks almost identical to this one....the only bad part is that all those skinny rings equal to almost an inch of wood I have to remove before I can chase that ring....but I guess that's why we have 24 hours in a day :P
Ky
Whoa, If you are going to remove nearly 1", that's a bow's worth, Tke off 90% on a bandsaw and youve got another stave to play with, or make a miniature bow with those nice fine rings... Or E-mail the offcut stave to be...drat they havn't invented that facility yet :o
Del
-
I'd split off the belly split by putting your wedge in parallel a couple rings above your choice thick ring. Then split the log full length. You'll probably be able to make a bow or two with the left over top section, although maybe not of as good a quality. We've done this several times before... ;)
-
I'm with Greg! I hate wasting wood.
-
Here's an idea, Take Greg's advice and take a belly split at the point I marked. Use the thin ringed stuff later when you feel more comfortable chasing thin rings, you'll prolly get a fine D bow out of it. I usually start a belly split with a good sized standard screwdriver and a hammer then follow it up with some small wedges.
-
I myself would go down to that ring that Dano pointed out. I tried a belly split with bad results before.
-
The last bow I posted was a belly split, and we got two additional roughed in bows out of the top section. There may be a little risk, but as thick as those grains are in the area you'd split off the belly, I don't think you'd have much trouble. We do have a lot of osage though, and don't mind taking risks with a piece. Your decision... ;) :)
-
Taking a belly split from a stave with that much crown will cost you two rings, at least. It will yield a useless, other than as a bbo core upper split. If you have enough depth, unlikely with that much crown, you could do it but it only serves to reduce the time getting to the one good stave. And it risks that one good stave. I've got osage running outa my ears, and I'm tight as they come, and I would not take a belly split off that stave. I might take a core off the top with a bandsaw, but only if the stave was real nice and I had the chops on the saw to not cut into the good stave. JMHO.
-
I splice a lot of billets and save the wedge shaped pieces when I cut the splices. The wedges are perfect for splitting off belly cores, lot less damage to the wood opposed to using steel wedges. Of course you have to start the split with steel and proceed with wood wedges.
-
That's the ring I'd go to also. Hard to say about the belly split. I'd probably do it but DCM has a good point. Jawge
-
Im not going to do a belly split....I don't think I have enough experience to do it successfully. I think I'll just stick to the old fashioned way and use my draw knife
Ky
-
Ky, take your time and remove each ring one at a time. You will earn a wealth of knowledge that way as you are removing the unwanted wood.
-
I have successfully split osage and ash wood along one ring, just to get two staves out of one. I usd small osage wedges and marked the ring I wanted to follow and wedged all the way around the stave on the same ring and popped it apart cleanly. That was on staves with no or almost no knots and thick rings.
If clear enough, you may be able to pop off the layer of thin rings and still use them for a kids bow.
Not a guaranteed method though. You have to start your crack with a little chisel and mallet, the start the wedges , and the wedges must be thin enough to follow the ring, but thick enough not to bend.