Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Parnell on November 23, 2009, 10:25:16 am
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Hi gang,
I've made a few bows with Ipe in the past. I've got Bamboo I've thinned down, getting close, and a couple of blanks.
I've read and seen so many Ipe/boo, Ipe/Hick, bows but I'm wondering a couple of things...
What's the better method for bending Ipe - dry heat, steam, boiling?
Also, what's the ideal glue for laminating on a boo backing? I've really only used TB3 up to this point but am wondering if an epoxy of some sort would be a better outcome.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Parnell
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Parnell, I don't think ipe heat bends very well. I haven't tried it, but a couple of IPE bows have been posted here that had the tips flipped into decent recurves by sawing the tip into two or more laminations. Ron
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Ok - so when I'm seein the deflex/reflex, It's coming from a form on glue up?
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PARNNELL OK THE BIG THING WITH IPE IS IT S SO DARN HARD ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO STEM AND HEAT BEND BEST WAY IV FOUND IS TO DO IT IN A FORM RICH MADE A BOW THE OTHER DAY THATS JUST THAT THINK IT S ON PAGE 3 NOW I KNOW FOR A FACT TB 3 WORK S JUST FINE FOR GLUEING UP IPE RICH HAS DONE WAY MOREN I HAVE OF EM AND THATS ALL HE USES SO JUST GET UR BIKE TUBES AND TB 3 OUT AND GLE IT UP USE THE R/ D FORM YOULL BE FINE YOU COULD USE URAC 185 TO BUT AS WELL AS TB 3 WORKS WHY GO TO ALL THE TRUBLE ? BROCK
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Cool - thanks Brock.
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I just use TB3 for glue-ups for hick/ipe or bbi. Make sure you clean the ipe well with acetone or something similar before glung, as ipe has natural oils.
I've had exactly 0 success with heat bending ipe. Glue forming, no problem.
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I gave up degreasing ipe with acetone years ago and haven't had a failure since with the following glues:
-Tightbond III
-Weldwood Recorcinol
-Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue
I sand the mating surfaces with a fine grit prior to glue up, wipe dust clean, and do the glue up within 24 hours. Otherwise, the surface tends to oxidize and reducing the chances for success. Make sure there is a perfect fit between mating pieces and apply the glue to both mating faces. I also give the glue PLENTY of time to set up. TB III intoduces a lot of moisture into the wood so I will often leave it in the form for as long as a week if I can find the patience.
All my ipe delaminations have been with various epoxy adhesives (with and without degreasing).
Alan
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Ipe doesn't bend so easy with heat. My solution is on page 2. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,7923.15.html
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I gave up degreasing ipe with acetone years ago and haven't had a failure since with the following glues:
-Tightbond III
-Weldwood Recorcinol
-Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue
I sand the mating surfaces with a fine grit prior to glue up, wipe dust clean, and do the glue up within 24 hours. Otherwise, the surface tends to oxidize and reducing the chances for success. Make sure there is a perfect fit between mating pieces and apply the glue to both mating faces. I also give the glue PLENTY of time to set up. TB III intoduces a lot of moisture into the wood so I will often leave it in the form for as long as a week if I can find the patience.
All my ipe delaminations have been with various epoxy adhesives (with and without degreasing).
Alan
Ditto
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I do pretty much what Alan posts as well. I wait at least a day, and usually two before I remove it from the form, and then I clean it up on the sander and let it sit outside in the sun to finish drying..I'm not working on the blanks for several days, and its usually dry and warm here..
Tonites glue up is osage backed with Ipe, and then I'll try the opposite for kicks too..
Rich