Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mar on December 10, 2009, 10:48:33 pm
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Some will remember seeing this stave; yeah got the other one on hold for now;
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020417.jpg)
Started shaping and chasing ring, ends need to be done but this stave has one heck of a propeller twist to it. Here some pictures of it now.
Nice end and sapwood is basically 1/4" and no more then 3/8"
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020421.jpg)
The end that is not so nice. Rings take a dip to one side. Problem maybe?
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020419.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020422.jpg)
So...still good? Yah!?
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I can't wait to see what you come up with. Very nice looking stave.
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come on mar...get to ripping that stuff down ;D...john
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Almost have it shaped but...looking at that last picture. How should I tackle it? I need to untwist mainly both limbs from both side of the handle it looks like. That bad end, (Last picture), looks like the heartwood takes of like that for 4-6 inches but I'm not totally certain.
What would you do? Stave is 6' long X 1 1/4" at handle, wide and thick now.
Here's a better picture after cutting a slice off, doesn't really look that bad I guess.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020424.jpg)
Left about 1/2" heartwood at the lowest point of the sapwood so far, now.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020425.jpg)
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No prob, that bit of twist seems to be there somewhere along the length of most Yew staves I get to play with, just forget the ring following stuff when you get too much twist and shape it as if the wood was all the same (e.g don't differentiate between heart and sap) although don't go so far as to ever remove all of one or the the other...
Errrr, I hope that makes sense.
The last bow I made had a patch about 5" from one end where, viewed from one side the limb was 60% heart, but viewed from the other it was 99.9% heart (I think I just about kept a sliver of sap wood just to make it look right)
That's the fun of working staves, the difference between theory and practice.
Have fun.
Del
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What twist...?? 8) 8) 8)
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I agree... that's nuthin'. Just go ahead and make a bow. If it's not going to be too heavy in the draw weight department, don't worry about chasing 1 ring on the sapwood. Yew can handle some small ring violations.
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This may be a silly question but do you follow the grain on yew also? I'm just asking because this one is so straight.
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This may be a silly question but do you follow the grain on yew also? I'm just asking because this one is so straight.
I try to follow the way the stave split so yeah I kind of follow it though I believe chasing a ring is more important, but I'm new at this.
Hard to show the twist in pictures so took a couple more. I laid the stave near level at the far end and this more or less shows what I will need to untwist. It's a real propeller.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020430.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/P1020431.jpg)
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That twist really isn't bad once you start tillering you probably won't even notice it.
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I think I'm starting to see it at one end what you are saying.
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kill it with the bandsaw and see if it breaks!
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I'm slowly working on it but I'll be moving soon so getting ready for that so not much time spent on it. I got it to the long string stage but will attempt to get some of that twist out today.
She's bending pretty good but still on the heavy side, glad to have finally received my TB #1 book.
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Well it's been almost a year and decided to get back at her again. As some may remember, my first attempt blew up on me. I recently been working away at this one and wish I could find my books again to refresh my memories about this bow building business.
Bow is still on long tiller string, got to make a new one before this frayed old one goes. I am thinking I may shorten this bow as it may be my best bet to handle the twist and get the string to align better...not sure about that yet. Bow seems to have taken some set, maybe two inches and I still need to lighten it some. these piece of wood already have a set look to them. I may try my hand at adding recurve tips but we;ll see.
So here are some updated pictures and please tell me what you see wrong. For one it looks like the right limb needs more work for now.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/PA280020.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/PA280021.jpg)
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I'd say the outer half of the right limb needs to work more and the mid left limb at the knot, don't leave it too stiff let it flex, that knot should be fine.
I'd say remove most of the raised area by the grip to let the whole thing flex a bit, that removes the whole 'stress concentration at the fades problem' and gives you a longer working limb, minimising sress.
You can build up the grip area with leather when you've finished it if you want to. Gotta get the brain away from the American style of bow...think medieval ELB (not the victorian tosh) >:D
Also get the short string on it, those tips are back to bracing height now, it will make a difference to how it feels. (or wind the string through a string shortener... scrap of wood with two holes in it)
Del
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Thanks for the advice, I shall do that. I need to make a new string anyway as this one is frayed and speaking of string. With the severe twist of yew the string is off centered at the handle and I think I might be better off shortening the bow to get it centered a bit better.
When is the best time to finish the tips? I have some walnut I wish too use to finish up the nocks.
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few mm off centre is no prob, if it's a long way out, I'd suggest steaming the centre of it then clamping it bent the other way a tad.
it's easy to make a steam box from old insulation board or somesuch and a wallpaper steamer. Make a simple form to clamp it to, and get everything ready to clamp it as soon as you pull it out of the steam, you have to move quick, so try out out before you steam.
Yew responds well to steam bending, you could always take aut the twist, but it's harder to make a jig for twist removal.
If you are reluctant to try it on your bow, try it out on a bit of scrap timber first.
Del
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Did more and made a short string. Ntn 70" Might still shorten it if I can't deal with the propeller twist, got to play with steam. I don't have a proper scale, just a bathroom scale but need to modify my stick as it slips on the scale. I am guessing I am pulling 50-60# which is in the neighborhood of what I was aiming for.
So I need comments and advise before I star sanding and finishing her up though with the string way off it might be just a wall hanger.
Unbrace: Bow fliped end over end in this picture.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/PA310029.jpg)
5" brace:
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/PA310022.jpg)
At 28":
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/PA310023.jpg)
Off centered string:
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/Ruckster/PA310028.jpg)
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So...what is my plan of attack now. need input. :)
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So...what is my plan of attack now. need input. :)
Clamp it up, just over straightened and apply dry heat or steam for twice as long as you think you need. Let it cool for twice as long as you think you need and it'll be fine.
A good length of 2x2 will do to clamp it to (edge on) glamp one limb down v lightly and slip a few pieces of ply under the other limb a few inches along from the grip.
Heat it up and tighten the clamps. Don't worry if it needs more bend, just repeat it with more ply under the limb. If you over do it, a little heat will let it relax back towards it's current state.
It's all much simpler and earier than it sounds (but don't tell the newbies ::))
Del
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Thanks Del. I have taken heat to it and it has straighten out. I just found out recently that my buddy and somewhat mentor got booted off here for ridiculous reason so therefore I will probably no longer post on here, but thanks for the input.
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Mar, your bow is looking good. I've never worked with Yew, hope to one day.