Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Steve Cover on February 04, 2010, 09:21:06 pm
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I've been making wood arrows for over 40 years.
However, I've never tried to dye any of them.
I recently bought a dip tube with that explicitly in mind. It came with a rubber membrane to fit under the cap.
Can anyone give me some advice as how to use it?
Thanks,
Steve
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Never used one.
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Steve. Did the rubber membrane come with holes in it or at least one in the middle? If so, that is used in conjunction with gasket lacquer. You push the arrow down through the hole in the rubber, into the dip tube that is filled with gasket laquer and then pull it out. If it has no holes in it, I have no idea.
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Steve. Did the rubber membrane come with holes in it or at least one in the middle? If so, that is used in conjunction with gasket lacquer. You push the arrow down through the hole in the rubber, into the dip tube that is filled with gasket laquer and then pull it out. If it has no holes in it, I have no idea.
There is no hole in it.... Your explanation is what I suspected it was for.
How close to shaft size should I make the hole??
Thanks,
Steve
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Just enough to squeegee (spelling) the gasket lacquer off the shaft. It will leave a very thin film that will dry almost by the time you have dipped a dozen shafts. Not sure that is what you have though, because they come pre punched, or the one's that I got did.
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The gaskets I got for the GL came pre-punched. Are you talking about sealing the arrows with GL, or about dying/staining them? If you are going to dip them to stain them, don't use the rubber gasket. It pulls too much dye/stain off and doesn't let enough stay on the arrow to take it. At least, that's what's I've seen. That gasket may just be to keep the stuff from drying out when you are not using it. I dunno. To stain arrows, I'll dip them and let it drip off for several seconds, then run a towel down the shaft and set it aside to dry. Or run stain or dye over them by hand. But, I sure haven't used all there is out there, so you may have something else that would work better. If you do, let me know please! ;)
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Fiebings leather dye rubbed on with a cloth is a great easy way to stain shafts, too.
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The gaskets I got for the GL came pre-punched. Are you talking about sealing the arrows with GL, or about dying/staining them? If you are going to dip them to stain them, don't use the rubber gasket. It pulls too much dye/stain off and doesn't let enough stay on the arrow to take it. At least, that's what's I've seen. That gasket may just be to keep the stuff from drying out when you are not using it. I dunno. To stain arrows, I'll dip them and let it drip off for several seconds, then run a towel down the shaft and set it aside to dry. Or run stain or dye over them by hand. But, I sure haven't used all there is out there, so you may have something else that would work better. If you do, let me know please! ;)
Thanks,
I've thought about the dip and wipe off scenario too.
The unpunched membrane has me stumped.
Steve
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When I made cedars I would use a dip tube for finishes only. I usually used water based poly. Dip the shaft, let the excess drip off and hang to dry. It will continue to drip so protect the surface below from the excess. Two coats of poly made a good finish and no chemical smell.
Now I use either hand rubbed Tru-Oil or my home made pine pitch varnish which I brush on for my hardwood shoot arrows and cane arrows I have removed the rind from. On cane with the rind intact I usually don't add a finish.
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In the past it wasn't uncommon to soak arrows in Danish oil to increase weight. A plug with no hole would be necessary to keep from spilling the oil.
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To the moderators.
Thanks for pulling the plug on the Spline/spine thread.
Life is way too short for that kind of BS.
I'm a good guy, and intend to be an active productive member of the forum.
Feel free to delete any and all further attacks on me.
Steve
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When I made cedars I would use a dip tube for finishes only. I usually used water based poly. Dip the shaft, let the excess drip off and hang to dry. It will continue to drip so protect the surface below from the excess. Two coats of poly made a good finish and no chemical smell.
Now I use either hand rubbed Tru-Oil or my home made pine pitch varnish which I brush on for my hardwood shoot arrows and cane arrows I have removed the rind from. On cane with the rind intact I usually don't add a finish.
I've dipped arrows in paint and hung them to dry for years.
I appreciate the feedback.
From what I've read so far, I think I will experiment with punching a 80% sized hole in the membrane and dipping in my walnut die.
Tell me more about your home made pine pitch varnish. I have lots of pines on my retirement property.
Thanks again,
Steve
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Dissolve hard pine pitch in alcohol, strain off the trash and store in an air tight jar. The harder the pitch the better. It will dry hard as soon as the alcohol evaporates. If the pitch is tacky or oozy when dissolved it will take longer to "cure" once the alcohol evaporates.
I also use pitch varnish to seal sinew wraps on arrows.
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Dissolve hard pine pitch in alcohol, strain off the trash and store in an air tight jar. The harder the pitch the better. It will dry hard as soon as the alcohol evaporates. If the pitch is tacky or oozy when dissolved it will take longer to "cure" once the alcohol evaporates.
I also use pitch varnish to seal sinew wraps on arrows.
Thanks,
Steve