Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: chriss880 on March 15, 2010, 10:25:42 am
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i have gluded my oak bow sevarel times with elmers construction glue whatever but it keeps pulling away? what kind of glue should i use?
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It might not be the glue... it could be your prep is poor. That being said, I use TB3 for everything, with no problems.
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try roughing up ur surfaces to be glued and don't clamp really tight
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what kind of glue should i use i have gorilla glue comstruction glue and elmers
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Some glues you need a really smooth surface for gluing and some glues you need to have a rough surface. I use both TiteBond III and Urac 185 two part glue from Nelson Paint. The titebond needs a really smooth well-mated surface while with the Urac surfaces need to be roughed up. Titebond shrinks as it dries while urac has gap-filling properties. Both are great glues in my opinion just depends on the application for which glue I choose. Also, make sure to degrease your glue surfaces before glue up with acetone if it is an oily wood. You also just want to clamp snugly, too much clamp pressure will squeeze all your glue out starving the joint making a weak glue line. Hope this helps... :)
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Does anyone ever use Smooth on for hickory backed or bamboo backed glue ups? I got some left over. I have two bows I need to glue up.
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you don't want to use Gorilla Glue...It foams as it sets...and this leads to air bubbles in the Glue Joint....Stick with Titebond ....or Urac....hell even a good two part ...all of these are better than Gorilla...or Elmers....JMO
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What are you glueing exactly? If you're trying to glue a handle riser onto an oak board, it's probably not the glue. If there is any bending through the handle section, no glue will hold it for long.
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i am making a oak bow and i am glueing 2 layers
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Titebond or Urac are your best bets. For my bows I use Urac.
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I use smooth on and have never had a bow delam on me yet not knocking any other glue just my choice.I have used it for glass,boo,and wood backings , but like the other guys said prep is 90% I also try not to build a bow when the humidity is up as my shed is open. A hot box is a handy rig to have as well the constant temp. and dry air helps the curing alot. 3rivers sells any glue you would need what ever you choose. good luck ;D
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TB3 is good but needs properly mating surfaces if under a lot of stress. Cant go too far wrong with 2 part epoxy though
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Chriss, how many clamps are you using during your glue up? How are you spacing them? Sometimes it ain't the glue or the surfaces.
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grunt is right it needs to be tight,I use a method I learned from Robustus using jute string and wedges takes a little time and practice but keeps everything tight.
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i am using 3 clamps like 12 inches apart
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i am using 3 clamps like 12 inches apart
That's not near enough clamps. When I use clamps I space them about every 2-3 inches.
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Sounds like the clamps are the problem. I use the same as Gordon. It is a pretty big chunk of $ to get enough clamps. Maybe some of the guys will chime in on some low cost clamping methods. I've got enough clamps but I'm 63 and I have been collecting them for half my life.
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Split Bicycle Innertubes...or Ace Bandages work fine for Me...or if you have a Harbor freight near by...they sell some pretty cheap Clamps...but they are not the Strongest either...I prefer the Ace Bandages because they can breath....and the Glue dries faster...just be sure that you don't torque the Glue-Up as you stretch the Bandages tight...you can end up inducing Propeller twist....JMO
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Go to harbor freight or home depot and get a bunch of spring clamps. When they are on sale they are about a buck a piece. They are much cheaper than screw clamps and work just as well for this application.
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Does anyone ever use Smooth on for hickory backed or bamboo backed glue ups? I got some left over. I have two bows I need to glue up.
Quite often....
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I've used spiral wrapped shrink-wrap to clamp glue ups of other long-skinny projects. No reason it won't work for a bow. Get a 5" wide roll from HD or Lowe's for about $8, it'll last a looooonnnnggg time. Use a couple C clamps to hold the pieces together as you start to wrap, and remove them as you come to them. Let it sit 24 hrs, then remove the wrap. There will be un-set glue on glue line. That's OK. Let it sit another couple hours until that dries. Then you're good to go.
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I'm with Ken and the stretch wrap, you want to start at the middle of the bow and work out to the end's wrap til you see the glue squeeze out and continue down the bow. works great for me gluing in reflex
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I use TiteBond3 as well as wrappin in plastic wrap and the clamping thoughly. However, when I first started this process I was gettin mixed results, some good, and some not so good. I found my problem. I was applying the glue to the backing and puttin it on the stave and clampin it. I now apply the glue to both the backin and the stave, then put them together, and then proceed with the wrappin and clampin. Oh ...I fergot...I always score each surface and clean them with denatured alcohol to remove any oils, before I apply the glue. Haven't had a bad glue joint since.
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I will try to get a pic to you in the next few days of the string and wedge method. You can do several bows for ten bucks or so. You might send Robustus a pm he has probably got pics of glueing a bow up this way.