Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: hillbilly61 on March 21, 2010, 09:08:46 pm
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At what point is the ring violated on the osage? Can you round the edges w/o violating it? Also the varnish that's used to seal the back, can it be sanded off?
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You mean rounding the edges on the back may violate a ring. You don'y need to round the edges that much. Is the varnish in the ring yo want for the bow? Remember you have to chase to heartwood ring. Jawge
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If you can sand the varnish off without violating a ring then yes. If you sand through in one small area, you have to take off the entire ring. Rounding the corners should not be a problem as long as it is only the very edge.
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Just to take off the sharpness of the back edge. It is the bow you saw in my other post. I would like to get the varnish off so I can stain it with tru-oil. But if it meens ruining the bow (since it is tillered and shootable) then I'll just live with it, unless y'all have any suggestions.
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What you just want to change color.If so sand it and back it with thin raw hide or something.Unless you really sand it the tiller shouldn't change.If it dose touch it up.
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Are you sure that it's Varnish....and not Urethane?? If it's Varnish...there is a great product out there that will cut it off without hurting the Bow....it's called Smart Strip by Peel Away...and it works great.....and it's Biodegradable too....
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Not sure. A couple areas have peeled about the size of my fingernail. I'll pick some smart strip and do a small test area.
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I've seen varnish thats beem but on thick and is old crack up.
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If the finish is shellac, it scrapes off easily with a cabinet scraper with a minimum off wood removal.
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Shouldn't be any problem sanding/scraping it off if you're careful.
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Try acetone. I have had luck removing several different finishes with it. Do it outside with rubber gloves and lots of rags
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Personally, I'd live with it rather than mess up a ring. Touch up that spot that's lifting. Tru Oil is not my favorite for waterproofing. It's a good pore sealer for the belly and that's about it. IMHO. Here's what I do if I'm concerned about the back getting drying cracks. I get the back pristine after floor tillering. Remove the nicks, sand, etc. then spar urethane it as a and leave it. Generally, you only have to worry about drying cracks with black locust, osage and mulberry. Oh, if I have to remove the bark, I'll seal those woods but not on the ring that I want for the back of the bow. That's my stor and I'm sticking to it. Jawge :)
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I'm just gonna live with it and seal it. what about waxing the belly?
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hillbilly, this osage right? 3 coats of Tru Oil seals up the belly pores nicely. Then you can spray on a finish. I like spar urethane. Jawge
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ring violation question, on Osage is this when you scrape or cut or gouge clean through a ring into the next one or just scrape or gouge into the one your on, but not through it into the next layer? Thanks, Ken
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Hillbilly61, I do like Eric said with the cabinet scraper, with good success. You can remove the shellac without violating the growth ring. I also like the spar urethane as Jawge states. Experimented with automotive finish, that stuff is tough. It is what I coated that little Pecan bow my Grandson was shooting at the Pre- spring shoot.
I rounded the edges on that little osage bow I had at the shoot, the one I brought as a back up bow... It has better than a thousand arrows across the rest and shows no signs of giving out.