Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: KenH on May 24, 2010, 11:27:53 am
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An Asian style bow, made from six different woods: Maple backed Red Oak working limbs, Walnut & Ash laminated Siyahs; Red Elm Handle, and Birch dowel String Bridges. Draws 40-45# @ 28"
58" TtT along the back - 56" in a straight line
56" NtN along the back - 53" in a straight line
17.5" Working Limbs 1" wide
6" Handle
3/8" thick laminated Siyahs 3.25" along the limb, 4.5" from angle to tip
I started with a 48" long 1.5" wide 1/4" thick Red Oak plank from Lowe's. Backed it with 1/8" Maple, and added a handle slab just on the back side. Proportionally it just seemed too wide to my eye, so I narrowed it to 1" before adding the siyahs. Literally only 100 strokes with a palm sander and 50 grit was the only wood I removed to get to my target weight! In retrospect I could have left it at say 1.25" wide and tillered by narrowing (parallel or tapered limbs) rather than thinning.
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Very nice looking bow, :)
Pappy
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Very Nice Ken, That is a sexy lookin bow my friend, really like the use of the dowel pins.
Rich
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That does look good! Any way you could post an unbraced profile picture? I would love to see how much that wood is working.
Mark
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Quite the bow. Yes - do post more pictures of its details.
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Nice, that does well to stay together without fancy materials (that's horn, sinew or F/glass)
Congrats.
Del
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Strung & Unstrung
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Siyah Detail
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Handle Detail...
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That is a very nice bow! It is cool how you used all wood in this design. :)
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Very nice bow, its good to see something original, looks like that must be a good combo. of woods, the red oak and maple. How does it shoot?
David
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Shoots "with authority" as they say; even with the heavy arrows shown. Smooth draw all the way from start to full draw. No such thing as hand shock - of course it's only 40-45#...
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I like everything about it, great job.
N2
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That is superb! What did you use to glue it, and did you sand off on the back, or belly, or both? Pardon the questions, but I'd really like to try something like this!
Frode
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I used TBII to glue with - siyah laminations, handle, siyah to limb and string bridges.
I only sanded the belly for tillering. Lightly sanded everything, of course to make it pretty ::). As I mentioned in my first post, I could have left the main limbs a full 1.5" wide and then taper-tillered from handle to tips; or gradually worked the parallel limbs narrower. I think it would have been closer to 50# @ 27" or 28" if I'd done a sort of Holmegård taper - parallel for some distance from the handle, then tapering to the tips.
Next one I think will be 48" from tip-to-tip.
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Ingenious and beautiful bow KenH.
Love to see a how to on this one!
Ron
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Nice bow that you made there. Looks as though it would be light in the hand.
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dang nice bow , something else to try one day
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Ron - I'll post a How-to in the Tutorials section
Lombard - 8.5 ounces light in the hand!
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Ron - I'll post a How-to in the Tutorials section
Lombard - 8.5 ounces light in the hand!
THANKS!!!
U DA BEST!
Be looking forward to it!
Ron
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can't wait for the build-a-long,need to see how you spliced the syiahs in
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No "splice" on the siyahs - no W splice or V splice - just a surface glue job. I thought about wrapping the joint with artificial or real sinew but decided to see how well it works without - I've seen other bows done the same way using bamboo slat for the body and wooden siyahs surface glued.
The How-To is now in place. Questions? Drop me a note.
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Ken PM me on when the how-to is posted!!!!! VERY INTERESTED!!!!
Thanks
RON
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Great job, Ken. I love the fact that you made it of readily available materials and yet it functions as well as the complicated Asian designs. Excellent craftsmanship and innovation. Thanks.
Dan
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The How-to has been posted for a couple days, okiecountryboy!
Thanks Dan, I do what I can with what I got. I do have got some better (or at least different) woods coming for the Mark II version. Somebody asked why I didn't sinew it; and I told them; 1) I just didn't want to mess with icky animal bits, and 2) the sinew would get in the way of looking at the beautiful wood.
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Ken thanks for sharing, and thanks for the "How To". I really like the design; again BRAVO!!!
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i've been working on a similar type bow but isn't going as well, it helped a lot to see how you did things.
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i personally cant wait for the mkII version ;) ;)
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Gopher - if you got questions, drop me a PM or an email. I'm not an expert but I'll help where I can...
EXPERT
ex= former
spurt = drip under pressure.
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love this idea , i want to try one but would you use this for deer hunting ? , and how hard overall was it >?
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Sweet bow. Very nice work. Now I want to build one... so many bows
Skimo
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I like the design, i may need to take from the nock ends, for the bow im planning to build later on lol
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Ok, now that is fantastic!!
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8) yes very cool looking bow, art work in wood.
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I wouldn't have thought that maple & red oak would stand up to such a high-stress design, but it doesn't look like it's taking much set.
Did you heat treat the belly? That might be a way to take it a little further, if you haven't already.