Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: paganwannbe on June 01, 2010, 04:44:46 pm
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I don't know where to post this please let me know if this is the wrong place. I'm making a red oak bow hoping to pull around 45 50 pounds but I don't know how to give the bow its shape.So any tips anyone could give my I would be very thankful. thank you for taking your time to answer
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just draw your outline on the back and trim it out. any power tool or hand tool will work. bandsaw, jig saw, rasp, surform plane, draw knife, hatchet..
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I take it you're referring to a Red Oak Board bow, not a stave. Go to the How-To section here and look at the top for the post that gives Jawge's website. The other popular site is: http://poorfolkbows.com where the author also shows you how to make several simple bows.
Essentially aero86 is right. You use a ruler and a marker and draw the top view of the bow you want - pyramid or paddle or whatever. Then you use a saw, rasp or other tool to rough out the shape. Say you've chosen a 2" wide by 3/4" thick board. After you've drawn out and cut out the shape, then you could add an extra piece for the handle using Titebond II glue. At this point you start what is called "tillering"" - that is taking off wood from the belly side (usually) until that stiff board is able to bend and give you the draw weight you want.
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Thank you for the website and yes sir sorry I could have been a bit more informative and
could some one please tell me a store that sells a surform plane or a draw knife
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Any hardware store should carry the surform. I got mine at Lowe's.
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OK thank you
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When you buy the surform, go for the larger one. $20.00 is all it will cost. You might want to make a scraper as well, if you cant find one. A palm sander is good for fine tillering after you get your shape and draw weight that you want.
As KenH said. Jawges' web site is a wealth of knowledge. Welcome to the addiction and to PA!
Also under the archive section there is a list of terminology that may be useful.
Good luck
Ron
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cool I did not know a lot of the terms just about Archer's Paradox being the one I've heard but not understand that tells me how much I don't know you learn something new everyday thank you for all the help I hope when I get done I can post the pictures here
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Keep askin questions! These folks here have taken me from nothin to a struggling amature... ;D
And trust me.....They have been patient!
Ron
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What type of finish do I need to use if I can expect to use it in rain. It might be to much to ask but Would like to know what type of snake skin I should use with it and if DNA will show up though it to look like the arrows eye candy cane by Tim Ott in volume 18 issue 2
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THere's info on my site too. For 45# you can go 1.25 in wide. I recommend a bend in the handle design for your first. Jawge
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witch area is it under? is that form the side or what will be the bottom/top
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dont be put off if it breaks. there have been plenty of people like me on here. made their first board bow, turned out beautiful. then mess up or break their next few. i dont know how i made a good working and shooting bow with my first one, but it worked out ok. just go slow, when removing wood, dont try to hog off too much at a time. take it down to a little above your lines, then move to the other side and do the same.
most of us are still learning and asking questions. dont be afraid to ask whatevers in your head.
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Oops. Sorry. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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OK thanks and I won't I will be shocked if it did not break however.
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is that form the side or what will be the bottom/top
As Okiecountryboy suggested, please go here: http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,978.0.html and use the right words to talk about the bow so that we can understand you. Bows do not have a bottom or a top. Spell check helps too. That's "from" not "form"...
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Sorry sir I do not know as much about describing bow so I was guessing at it. And for the form/from my right hand typed faster then my left sorry and thank you for telling me :-[
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I have looked at the site and it made me wonder What type of backing would go best with red oak and if I could use artificial sinew as a bow string cause I have 20 yards according to the package. It may not be pure primitive but I can't go hunting till the bow is finished to get real sinew and I think I read somewhere the you could use sinew as a bow string and backing. so I thought it might work but if someone else has tried it and it did not work I would like to save it for the Quiver I want to make.
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Linen, silk and burlap will work. Art sinew will not. It's nylon and waxed. Jawge
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Oh but I thought that you had to wax bow strings for some reason unknown to me. I could probably find the linen, silk or the burlap at a fabric store right or do I have to go some where else like an arts and crafts store ?
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if you have picked a good board, and leave it the full length, you shouldnt have to back it. the extra length will give you some fudge room
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OK I was thinking cause I'm only 5'9 that I would have to make it a bit shorter for ease of use and after reading about bows blowing up I figured it was better to have it and not need the not have and need it like Mister dragonman said you never know till you try it.
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im only 5 9 too. ive got 2 6 foot bows. kinda tough to manage in brush, but just shooting and making your first bow, like i said, the extra length gives you more fudge room.
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OK oh man I can't Wait to get it going whats bad is I think I want my first bow to break so I can see how it breaks you know learn how it will break cause I can't find any pictures that show the inside of the break and experience is the best way to learn
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Silk and linen you can get at a fabric store. You can also go to a second hand store and get silk dresses or ties even. Burlap you can get at a garden store. Jawge
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OK thanks Mister tsoukalaks
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"I think I want my first bow to break so I can see how it breaks"
I learned very little, other than how to make shavings, with my first two bows because both of them turned out pretty darn nice! Of course, I was unter the watchful eye of a serious wood scraping fool. It was the next 6 that schooled my sorry butt. Every last failure was graduate level education.
I think I want your first bow to turn out nicely because you deserve it, then let the next few school your butt!
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Good cheap bowstrings can be made with #36 Mason's Line, which has a breaking strength in excess of 700 pounds. Make sure it's #36, not the more common #18 which is thinner and not as strong...
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Is that when combined in the 7 string method as described by Tim baker in Traditional Bower's Bible V2 or just one piece of thread?
And I think I will look at fabric stores it might be a little odd if a young boy go's and buys a dress cause I'm no Klinger.