Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jp gray on June 18, 2010, 01:13:04 am
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i took the plunge to shoot a selfbow and cane arrows with stone points,i have a osage self bow being made but i also want to learn how to make one,going to a lumber store in the am and pick out a good red oak board,questions ,
1) do i draw the bow out on the board and then cut it out and start takeing wood off?
any help would be much appreciated.
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I'm not a moderator but, I start with making sure the growth rings on the end of the Board are the way they should be and then make sure the Grain on the sides of the board are straight throughout the length. I start the Handle measurement then measure the fades from the handle marking as ya go. Marking the measurement for for the start of taper to the tips would be my next step.
Next I cut the rough of the Bow out then start measuring and marking thickness from the handle fade to the Tips.
depending on the type of Bow you are making makes a big difference on measurments. 8)
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Not a board bow guy but a lot here are,and good at it.Check out Jawges site,lot of good info for someone starting out.I am sure he and others will check in to help.Welcome and enjoy the ride. :)
Pappy
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YUP, the rings and run-of-grain are deadly important. Some sort of backing will help to stabilize some of the runout problems. I do lots of layout with a kite string as it gives me a really straight line to start with. I find the middle of the length, and the middle of both ends, and wiggle the string around till it lays about in the middle of the handle. Then, i measure out from that middle/middle mark for 1/2 the handle, and the max width at that point , and the width at the nocks, PLUS SOME FUDGE FACTOR.....draw the widths i want, using a pencil compass, connect everything and walk to the bandsaw.
Remember that WIDTH is stability, and THICKNESS is power. BALANCE is everything.
piper
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Thanks, Pappy. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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I knew you would be around. ;) :) Now go get um JP. :)
Pappy
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I was told by KenH that this is a good site this is what I'm using for my red oak board bow http://poorfolkbows.com hope it helps.
No offense meant to George Tsoukalas/Jawges
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Hey JP,
I build board bows and I believe this might help get ya off on the right foot.
1. try to get the wood with grain straight down all four sides (or as close as you can)
2. Check the board to see if there is any natural reflex (on the broad side of the board) and mark that for the bow's back
3. If the board is wider than you need mark a centerline down the back or belly that follows the grain as much as possible
(even if it's crooked to the boards edges)
4. Layout the plan view of the bow, measurements only from the centerline. (how it looks straight on)
5. Cut, carve, or whatever the shape out
6. If the bow has a rigid handle put the board on it's edge and layout the profile view and cut away the waste from that
(be really carefull around the limbs, taking off too much or a "mistake" and you'll have a nice kids bow)
7. The rest of it is scraping, tillering etc and of course the finish work. If you have been using a saw to this point .....ptu it away cause all the rest is rasps, files and scrapers.
rich
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alright got the board its 1x2x6 red oak ,grain looks great ,got the tools .4n1 rasp,surform rasp,now the fun begins.
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UhOhhhh
Another addict
RON
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on you're next one, and their will be another, go to a hardwood store and find a good piece of hickory, it's tough enough that even if ya make a small misstake you will probably still end up with a shooter.
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Take yer time Tillering :)
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Another board bow builder here, JP. Half Eye is the Yoda of board bows; follow his wisdom and your rewards will be great ;)
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JP - I'll just add that when, not if, but when you get the urge to "just pull it to full draw one time" before you are done tillering - I have this careful advice. Stop, put the bow down, take your hammer off the work bench, lay your thumb on the vice, and give your thumb a good whack! - now, when the cuss words explode out of your mouth, remember to feel better, because at least the bow didn't blow up on you, or take too much set....... :D
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JMO for your first board bow don't do a glued on handle. Bend in the handle bows are easier on the psyche. :) Jawge
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Look at the edge grain and pick a straight grained board. I allow 2 run outs per limb for a 50-55 # bend in the handle bow. The type of board cut does not matter except to say that quarter sawn boards need the edge grain straight with no run outs. Beginners should back their first few bows because they are beginners. I prefer burlap, silk and linen because they are natural materials. More on my site. One ore thing-if you want a bow 45-50 you can go 3/8" wide. Jawge
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I build lotsa board bows and consider myself a fare bowyer. Here is an Idea.. Do as the others have said fine a nice straight grain board, My preference is Ash , not red oak as it is always too dry or brittle for my liking. I know fellows use it and have success with it, but they probably were more fortunate Than I in choosing the right stave.You will probably have to order a stave from a lumber yard, Such as agway,84 lumber, or other source. But I think it is well worth the trouble. Ash has strong tension character and Usually if straight grain requires no backing. My choice for backing is hickory or bamboo. Sometimes linen if it is to be a elb bow. Now for the trimmings, I use a chalk line fine the center of the bow and blink a line. Measure to the center36 inches from each end, this will yield a 72 inch bow. The longer the more forgiving and I think easier to tiller if you don't narrow it too much for your first bow.After I got my line and find the center, I measure 3 inches to the left of center mark and 3 inches to the right. This is the handle now measure from the center dot the mid limb and make a mark at 16 inches and repeat the same on the other limb. at the end of your board Take a compass and set for1/4 inch on your chalk line and draw a circle on you line at the end of the bow ,go to the mid limb and spread the compass to 3/4 of and inch and put on your mark and draw another circle .Proceed to the handle area and choose the outside dot of the handle and make the circle a 2 inch circle. The radius of course is 1 inch. Now go to the other limb and do the other side the same way.Now take a yard stick or straight edge and connect the circles. There is your bow outline.You can use a band saw or saber saw or plane . to work the edges. I would purchase sureform rasp file at homedepot and shape the bow with that. Then proceed with other scrapers for the tilling.You red oak builders need not yell at me , I just don't like red oak for a first bow. However it is ready available to everyone and make a pretty bow .Good luck on your project. If I can help anymore check out my web and e-mail www.jerbowden.net.. Denny
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I hate to be argumentative denny, but if I were to order board staves I'd have to settle for less than suitable grain possible. If I couldn't examine it I wouldn't order it. Jawge
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Good point, jawges, but I have had such good luck with ash following proto call wasn't always necessary. However, I teach a lot of students on ash because it is so forgiving.When I order, I specify What I desire and so far riff cut or kerf cut have come out pretty good for me. And if you order only 6 foot it usually is pretty straight.Denny
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When I speak of grain, my friend, I am not talking about the type of board cut. I am looking to see if the grain runs end to end on the stave. Check this. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/boards.html
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George is right. I have ordered lumber from a large reputable bow supplier and still gotten crap. I do still order from time to time and knowing the right people to order from makes a huge difference, but it is still gambling when you order without seeing.
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I have gotten some hickory from justin at Gibows (he was with bowstick at the time) that awefully good. of course keep in mind, Hickory is awefully tough. Still i would not buy boards without running my own hands over them. Also addressing the original post, here is my little video build along. Not as much info as Jawges site, but another source couldn't hurt.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37EPS0Xs_Tw
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thanks,yep i have been to justins web-site,would love to get my hands on one of them horn bows!
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this bow building is getting fun! when i finish this one im going to have a go at a hickory board.,its hard work with no power tools ,but its gonna pay off in the long run ,once i get a real good one built and harvest a deer with it along with some rivercane and stone.man cant wait!!!!!!!!!!!!,,SEE YALL HAVE DONE CREATED A MONSTER!!!!!
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jp gray , If it would help, I will send you a perfect bow stave cut to your dementions or mine. And you can hack away. Just give me something towards shipping. There again you don't know me ,but I am a little closer than a lumber yard. Choosing a board is really important and straight grain is off the essence . I didn't me to head you in the wrong direction, with the ash at the lumber yard. I just don't know your suppliers. Sometimes you can walk in a wood supply store and fine the board you desire. But usually you have to sort thru alot to find the perfect one for a selfbow, And I have done all the above at homedepot and read a lot of u tube biuld alongs of red oak boards that broke . Make the bow long and wide and back with some of the backing jawges suggested. and you should do well. Jawges no hard feelings taken. Was just my opinion, I get so little time these days to comment on the forum . I should slow down on the typing and think thru what I said. You will fine I am a honest careing guy and would not intentionally give bad advise. Some times I guess we have to read between the lines (assuming ). Anyway , thanks for allowing me to share. Denny